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New to RC anything

With 2 2200mah 3s lipos you should get about an hour+ run time. As fun as brushless is, for your first hobby grade rc, going with stock rtr electronics and upgrading over time will probably teach you more about your rig. If you go buy a kit and stuff tons of upgrades in it before you have even run one, you will never know what you could be missing with a brushed set up.

The Newbie section also has many posts about the 101's of RC crawlers! We all started somewhere, wish I would have started there!

X2^^^^^^^"thumbsup"
 
You're being smart now. Just remember, not everyone will have the same opinions, and a lot of people are just full of crap and think there word is that of god! If you do anything different, you are wrong. Pick through all you read on here and try to decide what's right for you. There is a lot of good info here.

I believe the deadbolt is a 12" wheelbase and the unlimited is 12.3". You could make the change with different links, but its not as easy as just swapping out the body. Go to axial's website and look at all the rigs and compare each one. There are different components to different rigs. Some like electronics in one more than another. I don't know if its available, but the cr edition had the body you wanted, lots of lights and r35 compound bfg's. The g6 falcon is a jeep, has better spur gear and slipper and supposedly nice tires.( I know some of this doesn't mean anything to you yet). There's options. Just seems like people think the deadbolt is a good value. Check out dudley deadbolts adventure thread. He's wore throuvbf the front diff housing and its still going. He really hasn't upgraded much.
 
Bronco's advise is good if the hobby store folks know what they're doing, are truly helpful and not just looking to make a sale.

Bear in mind there are at least 3 versions of the rtr deadbolt: ax10, old scx10 and new scx10 with upgraded components like a waterproof model "ae5" esc; you want the latter.

Also, bring a printout of your towerhobbies checkout (without pulling the trigger) including shipping as the hobby store may have a price matching policy; maybe check their policies online.
 
I second what Bronco wrote, Me being fairly new to rc's and crawling i did alot of looking around on this website and others for ideas and just general knowledge of what i would be getting into. I myself went with the rtr kit just because it happened to be what my wife had bought me as a gift being i couldnt choose between the kit and rtr. but either way you go you can make it yours and thats all i worry about.

 
I believe the deadbolt is a 12" wheelbase and the unlimited is 12.3".

Correct, I specifically asked about this before I bought my Deadbolt, and the LHS guy said they were all the same.

I too am afflicted with the Jeep thing, so I understand the desire to melt a credit card down into nuclear waste with Poison Spider and Quadratech lol.

But just think of how very capable a stock Wrangler is. Also, just like in 1:1 Jeeping, not having air lockers and long arms to start, open diffs and 31's make you a better driver
 
I second what Bronco wrote, Me being fairly new to rc's and crawling i did alot of looking around on this website and others for ideas and just general knowledge of what i would be getting into. I myself went with the rtr kit just because it happened to be what my wife had bought me as a gift being i couldnt choose between the kit and rtr. but either way you go you can make it yours and thats all i worry about.

Nice lookin buggy!

Correct, I specifically asked about this before I bought my Deadbolt, and the LHS guy said they were all the same.

I too am afflicted with the Jeep thing, so I understand the desire to melt a credit card down into nuclear waste with Poison Spider and Quadratech lol.

But just think of how very capable a stock Wrangler is. Also, just like in 1:1 Jeeping, not having air lockers and long arms to start, open diffs and 31's make you a better driver

True, when I got my 2002 wrangler X it was bone stock and I still wheeled that thing. I slowly added things (tires were first) to improve it and make it mine.

Great forum here boys, glad to be here. I'll start a new thread once I pick up my RTR
 
I got a rtr scx10 deadbolt from tower hobbies for $266 shipped (with their $30 coupon). I am going to put the g6 body on it after I figure things out. I am also new to this scene. I went with a gens ace 2s 4000mah lipo. They say it will last an hour. You will meed a charger - i recommend the thunder ace 6. Read up on lipo charging as well. Just remember that when you upgrade one thing you may have to upgrade another to make it work. Its the snowball affect.
 
I have a non brand name 3s and i did a trail run for over 2.5hrs with it and loved it my friends changed out batteries and didn't have to. And i know the 3s is alittle over kill but with lights and a winch running off the esc i figured i would go with the bigger battery. Also im running a hobbywing brushless setup on it with programming card ,and even though its sensorless i still like the performance for trailing and crawling around.
 
With that budget, an interest in putting it together yourself, and those trekking plans, I'd go with the following if it were me:

From Tower:
$$$$ - discount coupon - Tower Hobbies - Coupon Codes
$330 ($297 after coupon)- Rubicon kit - TowerHobbies.com | Axial 1/10 SCX10 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Kit or save a boatload of money and instead get the
$220 ($198 after coupon) - Dingo kit on sale through the 24th - TowerHobbies.com | Axial 1/10 SCX10 4WD Kit w/Dingo Body (this is such a great deal, especially since you can use a coupon on it too; add the jeep body of your choice later and make the Dingo body your "basher")
$8 - Soldering iron - TowerHobbies.com | Hobbico Soldering Iron 60 Watt
$3 - 50wt silicone shock oil - TowerHobbies.com | Associated Silicone Shock Fluid 50 Weight 2 oz
$2 - Shock leak preventative - TowerHobbies.com | Associated Factory Team Green Slime

From HobbyKing's West-Coast USA branch:
$10 x 2 - 3s 2200mah lipo battery - Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (US Warehouse)
$25 - DC balance multi-battery charger - Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ Accessories (US Warehouse)
$10 - AC power supply for charger - HobbyKing Power Supply 100~240v 5A (USA Warehouse)
$20 - Servo - HK15298B High Voltage Coreless Digital MG/BB Servo 66g / 20kg / 0.16s (USA Warehouse)
$33 - 17.5t Sensored Brushless Motor - Turnigy TrackStar 17.5T Sensored Brushless Motor 2270KV (US Warehouse)
$7 - Hex driver set - Turnigy Long Shaft 4pc Hex driver set (US Warehouse)
$6 - Hex socket driver set - TURNIGY 4pcs hex socket driver set (USA Warehouse)
$4 - XT60 connectors - Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE (US Warehouse)
$1 - 5mm heat shrink tube to prevent short-circuits - Turnigy 5mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr) (USA warehouse)

From eBay - select "US Only" for Item location on the left:
$50 - GT3C transmitter & receiver (includes battery & charger) - I'd recommend a RC3S instead but you'd have to wait for it to come from China
$50 - Quicrun WP-10BL60 ESC - waterproof, brushless & sensored 2-3s lipo-compatible speed controller with drag brake & LVC to protect your lipo
$10 - Hobbywing LED Program Box Card PC2C - for easily programming your ESC
$40 - Rubicon body - when you're ready to paint & detail
$3 - solder

The charger I got from the local hobby shop shit the bed on me, I brought it back in and they only have that model and another for more powerful batteries that could hook up 4 batteries at once. It was also going to cost me another $50. I looked up the link you listed in the parts above and can find the charger for $25 but I can't find the $10 AC power supply. Will this work? Hobbyking 60w Power Supply (US Warehouse)
 
Would a knob switch work with either like the one on the rc4g radiolink transmitter

From my understanding, the knob on the RC4G is dedicated to controlling the gyro. The RC3S would be the non-gyro version.

The knob would work fine for 4-wheel-steer. A 3-position switch would also work, but would offer less control.
I believe HeyOk makes an adapter that allows rear-steer control with a 2-position switch.

As for dig, they are typically 3-position units. A 3-position switch would allow you to use all three settings, while a 2-position would limit you to only 2 of them. I would not suggest using a knob for dig.


Personally, I use the RC3S, but I replaced the knob with a 3-pos switch for dig, and I use the button for a winch.
 
From my understanding, the knob on the RC4G is dedicated to controlling the gyro. The RC3S would be the non-gyro version.



The knob would work fine for 4-wheel-steer. A 3-position switch would also work, but would offer less control.

I believe HeyOk makes an adapter that allows rear-steer control with a 2-position switch.



As for dig, they are typically 3-position units. A 3-position switch would allow you to use all three settings, while a 2-position would limit you to only 2 of them. I would not suggest using a knob for dig.





Personally, I use the RC3S, but I replaced the knob with a 3-pos switch for dig, and I use the button for a winch.


That's was very helpful. Thanks. And do you know anything about reversing a servo thought the transmitter (rc4g or rc3s)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
If you decide to buy a kit version, it is worthwhile to buy a star on the forum so you can buy used parts to finish the build at lower costs than new parts (just check the prices for new stuff to ensure you are not overpaying). A lot of people pull the electronis off new Ready to run (RTR) models, so those can be found often at a reasonable price. Good luck either way.
 
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