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New venom owner

BdoubleD

Rock Stacker
Joined
Sep 23, 2012
Messages
59
Location
ashland Ky
Hey fellas im new to crawln and love it so far ive been into rc short course for bout 3er4 years now. But i have a problem ive read sum other post on the topic torque twist, and cant seem to understand sum of ther solutions. Is there nething i can do with stock chassis,stock shocks and springs to stop the problem. Please explain, in simple terms lol. Thanks
 
Howdy man, and welcome to the Creeper madness.
The biggest help for tourqe twist with the Creeper is to spread the uppers at the front axle and also try to raise them and spread them at the rear axle.
There are a lot of ways to get this accomplished and there are LOTS of threads about the Creeper, RMDW's T&T's is one and you could browse thru my Creeper thread as well to get an idea as to what can be done with your rig, hope this gets ya started "thumbsup".

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/venom-creeper/264852-rmdw-ts-ts-set-up.html

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/venom-creeper/284119-my-new-build.html
 
Hello an welcome, if running stock shocks, run the shock coller down on the left rear an run the coller up a little on the right front, also space the top mounts out a little, this seemed to help mine, torque twist is allways goin to happen, but you can limit it alittle, if you can get some stick on wheel weights,put them on top the axle tube close to the wheel as possible on the right front.
 
Welcome to the sickness... Not sure of The stock shocks, but always 25wt shock oil in mine an many others..
TT is common in the stock setup, there are ways to reduce it an even pretty well get rid of it.. thru shock adjustment with the threads is not the way... Tho it can help in stock form at first.. Rmdw tips an tricks is how I got rid of mine. It also depends on how far ur willing to take it! Most important is to have fun!
 
i havent got to try it yet but made almost all the adjustments i moved shocks out to chassis down on rearends front and back moved top links out was lookn at sum other post on suport brace in middle of top links will do that soon i also sanded down chassis plates an polished them to a mirror finish top links and steering links and servo mount plate ill stop ramblin now just thought it looked cool and havent read post on how to put pics on here yet will do that n morn waitin on hb rovers and a new savox sg0251 servo as soon as i read on postn pics will do for sure and thanks again for all the info "thumbsup"
 
I haven't got to try it yet but made almost all the adjustments.
I moved shocks out to chassis down on rearends front and back moved top links out was looking at some other posts on a support brace in middle of top links will do that soon.
I also sanded down the chassis plates and polished them to a mirror finish top links and steering links and servo mount plate.
I'll stop rambling now, just thought it looked cool and haven't read on how to put pics on here yet, will do that in the morning.
Waiting on HB rovers and a new Savox sg0251 servo. As soon as I read on posting pics will do for sure and thanks again for all the info "thumbsup"
Is this your servo... Savöx SC-0251 Servo Specifications and Reviews ? If so, it looks OK for a starter. Depending on your battery voltage & ESC, you may not need an external BEC right away.

Why not list your electronics & battery type/voltage.

Oh, and welcome to the group.8)
 
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As of right now I had a losi speedcontroler and a 12turn traxxas motor it is not good for crawling. Ive been lookin around for sum good motor/speedo combo so many different opinions kinda confused on what to purchase. I would like waterproof perferably. I like a little speed like a 20 sum turn. Any ideas would b great. O an ima runnin a 7.4 volt lipos not good for crawling to big I've been lookin at saddle packs or smaller size lipos to mount on front and get rid of battery tray. Different world from electric dirt oval, short course and indoor blacktop. But I've become addicted to crawling been robin parts from slash an sc10 lol
 
My personal favorite is a fx-r an HH motors.. before that, fx-r an integy motors, they never left me down, a 45t on a 15t pinion will give you torque an wheel speed.. I run 3s with that combo.. I run practice with 850-1000mah, I comp with 450mah.
If you want water proof esc, HH brxl. I just waterproof my fx-r.. liquid tape dip or spray..
 
Just figured out how to post pics will post more later with better chassis and setup. Just stock for now neways waitn on sum upgrade parts though
 
Good looking lid! Next, tires! LOL, huge diff in ability with just changing tires.. side plates look sweet!

When you bring up the view links on Photobucket, click on the "img" link.. It will post the pic not the link to the pic.. *thumbs-up*

Also, ur servo horn.. go aluminum, golden horizon hd horn.. you will break the little plastic white one the first time you get in a bind, not to mention what's goin to happen to it the first time you nose into a rock!
 
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IMG_20120928_134721.jpg
 
Just mounted the rovers u wuz readn my mind lol. Just got servo still waitn on aluminum servo horn. Gettn ready to go to the shop and make me a rear plate to move rear top links up and back and try an figure out a good way to move shocks out to chassis on front and maybe make sum links to turn front servo around to rear side of axle. Nemore good tips greatly welcomed
 
This is how I did mine, just used a spacer.

1331493388836-1.jpg


My battery tray..

1331493527253-1.jpg


I cut the posts to the chassis off, where my front shocks are mounted..
A good tip... Save the effort an material in making links to turn ur servo around an get a btl plate kit... It's the cheapest investment to totally protect ur servo! Also to get ur tie rod out of the way.. only thing scratched on my servo is the very edge of my servo horn were it mounts on the servo.. my servo has never touched a rock!

Ok... Wow! That was fast! Tell ya tires an next day, bam! Tires.... Servo horn, bam! On its way already! Sweet! When you make an order from Rmdw, discount comes with three or more items! Btl, dual disc foams, Lincoln lockers! Or SAI tubes.. or pin locks.. then once you made the order, pm Thomas with ur name an email. He will send you a invoice..
 
A winnerone could u post me a good pic of how u got ur bck top links. I made a plate for the bck will post pic later and can't really figure out how long to make rear top links. I used ain't for sure but I think the links I used r like 95mm they r the bottom links for a axial ridgecrest and r not ajustable and are not straight and after runnin it tday found out they r definitely not the right setup lol. An thanks a bunch for all the help again.
 
A pic of ur setup would help more.. cause I'm running rear truss .. tho I can send one..

On stock axle housing..

1331493417269-1.jpg


With rear truss..

1334741198823.jpg


So not so diff, spread out in both an up with the truss. I can't think of which team driver, but one of them has pics of the original Rmdw link spreader mount.. it looks like a C channel an The links are mounted on the two upright sides. 2-3* in at the axle from where it is at the chassis.. and higher at the axle then at the chassis.. Thomas has a great explanation and diagram on one of the first 3 pages of Rmdw tips an tricks, I believe, that is great!
One from the side, once I changed it all again.. lol..

1337519860557.jpg


I also want to thank you, I haven't been that far back into my Photobucket since I built thru all this.. its amazing how good it looked back then an The memories of all the effort an reading an changing an wrenching.. how shiny the aluminum Rmdw parts are, an my CF panels are shiny an crisp looking..
Ok lmj if this helps and also get some pics up.
 
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