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New venom owner

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more ta come as soon as I finish body panels.
 
Very nice! That's such a sick chassis! I should throw some moa axles on mine an see what it does... Thomas makes some but after pming him a few times bout one, I gave up..
Anywho, she looks great! Flat out, laying low, belly dragger. Which is good for side hilling, off camber, an climbs.. then when ur belly hits, the shocks will drop out an keep ur tires on the ground. Good work driver! What's ur gc? Maybe move ur rear shock mounting position down a hole an maybe back one hole towards the rear of the chassis.
 
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BDD...looks good...the Lincoln Lockers are now MIG welded...should be stronger then ever before...

Troy...the Talon chassis is moving forward again...I wanted to make sure that it was as good as the XR...
 
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Wow what can I say bout that chassis speachless. Got out tday an made body plates and me an my buddy went out crawlin. I wuz climbn hills that i couldn never climbed bfor rocks that was impossible with my stock creeper. Kinda made my buddy an his ax10 a little jealous lol. But here is a couple of pics after a long day. Soon ta come a few action pics.
 
Buildn is not well lit but u can get the idea lol. Winnerone I have about 2 1/4 in gc. What angle should I ru n my bck rearend pinion angle I think I might have it turnd up to far for sum reason when I try an get my driveshafts leavel to the ground its like it doesn't flex as good. An just want ta thank rmdw for a great chassis winnerone should get 50% off his next order for shown me his picks of his chassis an telln me where he got it. Lol.
 
I got something coming very soon for Troy....straight out of the deepest darkest recesses of the Paradox inner sanctum...

BDD..the rig looks good...good work on the panels too...I really like the axle guard up front..Ive been contemplating something similar.

Your rear pinion angle can run up to about 8 degrees from level...there may be binding when the shafts are fully compressed...may not have enough compression clearance to fully close all the way.
 
Thanks rmdw the front guard is pretty effective definitely a lot better than the plastic skid. I have another question ...I've read for two days now on derlin rod links ...sum say it works good others differ but will solid 1/4 in derlin rod make good links ...top an bottom ? Is it strong enuff not to bend an flex under presure
 
Well Brandon, what can I say.. it looks great! Takes me back that's for sure! Thank You for the shout out for Rmdw!
Now, just for thought.. you changed the chassis.. It works that much better, right.. now think of the abilities as you keep building an learn more bout crawling an learn ur rig, the longer you run it an change little things, the better it gets! Till ur running all the ax/xr-10's down! It happens ya know! Keep at it an do work driver! The farther you go the better it gets!

So much to say.. ok the front diff guard is neat an looks good. Did you try rolling over with it yet? If you go with the btl kit.. you can dfree that front end up an really get to crawl, it all together diff when there isn't anything to catch up front.. next, I see them rear diff/yoke guards. Great work! Ur upper link spacing looks good.
Maybe try coming back a hole at the chassis with ur front uppers. Get ur servo level or 2*'s rolled back.. so ur front yoke is level with the ground, without binding...
 
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Thanks troy this thng is a blast an still got a lot more to do. I ordered a transmission skid from atomic rc that helps out a bunch. To cold an wet n Ky to play this weekend so goin to do sum grease an gear checkn bored lol
 
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I straightened my lowers at the long end moved back bottom links out to chassis lengthened my rear uppers an spaced them out a little more. I'm at 13in wheelbase for now.
 
Shorten ur rear lowers to get ur wheel base back into 12.5" then ur rear uppers will be long enough to move down at the chassis an level with ur rear axle mount.. the .5" you cut off, use to lengthen ur front uppers... Thread the set screw out of ur link end some so you can get enough threaded into the link, don't take too much out of the link end tho..
 
I know this might sound crazy but when I tried leveling out my uppers on rear it kinda seemed like it had more tt but should I have uppers level at outter hole on chassis cause I kinda had it level but bck like a hole or to from edge of chassis........I dang near confused myself there lol
 
That could depend on ur drive shaft angle cause ur rear uppers are to short. Ur rear yoke was prolly level with the ground at that point. You want ur rear yoke up in the air. I think, the rotating pressure is diff depending on position. Instead of rotating ur drive shaft into... Nm.. just get ur rear yoke up in the air.. lol...

Did you shorten ur rear lowers?

Pics help when ur explaining something that confuses you.. :)
 
Haven't got to shortn bottom links yet it wuz work on it tday or go crawln hmmm wonder what I did.
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at carter caves ky
 
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