NOOB - X-Factor 2 owner

[907STROKER]

So, as requested, I just spent a while checking different posts for information and I still have a few questions. You guys have a great forum with lots of info. Keep up the good work. "thumbsup"

I will only be doing minor rock crawling and gome general screwing around. I am now an adult and can remember the joys RCing use to bring, so, I'm gettin back into it. I just purchased a used X-Factor 2 and am looking for advice and info.

What are the major downfalls to this truck?

I have seen a few with the front engine mod (that looks cool) and longer wheelbase and some that just looked bigger.

What do I need to do to accomplish these mods and where is the best places to get aftermarket parts?

Thanks for any info and feedbck.

 

[Jamus]

The best think I can think of to do is convert it over to electric power. I actually like the axles, I run them in my super but with electric. The axles are wide, but you can't really hurt them. Oh yeah, welcome to the site, we need more big shafty runners these days.

 

[Reflection]

Welcome....


I've run X Factor axles in the past. IMHO,they are WAY to wide and the diff section is WAY to big. If you wanna run wheels with ALL back spacing and Kong size tires,they'd be better.

For a non comp rig,they'll work and you'll have allot of fun with it. If you decide to build a comp rig,You'd be better off running Twin axles.

Longer wheelbase,I'd recommend around 17-18" or so. Allot of that depends on your tire size. Smaller tires-shorter wheelbase. Bigger tires,longer wheelbase.

Swap to electric. Decide how much power you want and pick your poison. John at Holmes Hobbies can hook you up with anything from a mild lathe motor to a stump pulling,gear stripping,axle snapping outrunner. Click Holmes Hobbies in my sig line and check his site out.

 

[907STROKER]

Thanks for the info. I already have a set of 8.5" Swamp Kong's on the way too. They have the 14mm hex, so I will have to do the conversion. I def. want to go longer wheelbase. Thanks again.

 

[Reflection]

Back when I ran my 8 1/2" hermaphrodite tires,I ran any wheelbase between 18-20". With big tires like that,you'll want to run beefy links and rod ends. Heck,for that matter,you really gotta beef everything up. Add pleanty of bulletproofness."thumbsup"

 

[907STROKER]

Back when I ran my 8 1/2" hermaphrodite tires,I ran any wheelbase between 18-20". With big tires like that,you'll want to run beefy links and rod ends. Heck,for that matter,you really gotta beef everything up. Add pleanty of bulletproofness."thumbsup"

I planned on getting with RC4WD and seing what they would recomend. Is the stuff they sell good quality? I was looking at the links, rod ends and punisher shafts.

 

[Reflection]

I planned on getting with RC4WD and seing what they would recomend. Is the stuff they sell good quality? I was looking at the links, rod ends and punisher shafts.

RC4WD makes some really nice parts and offers a few things nobody does. They've really stepped up in the tires lately. Their tires aren't at the top of the list for comp tires,a bit better compound and they possibly could be an option. For general bashing and backyard crawling,they are a pretty good tire. Nothing against RC4WD,their stuff is nice. Most of their parts are geared more towards smaller,lighter rigs(2.2 and scale size).

For driveshafts,hands down,get a few Revo shafts and build them. You'll be hard pressed to break a driveshaft built from Revo's. IMHO,thats the ONLY shaft for a super class rig. Even under a lighter 2.2 class rig,the Punishers are known to wear quickly.

Rod ends,theres a few options but it depends on how big you wanna go. Revo ends hold up resonably well and use #8 all thread for the link. Jato ends are the same size but they have a longer shank. I've been using Revo and Jato ends with pretty good luck. For the price,breaking a couple every other comp or so,it's no big deal. I don't have the numbers in front of me but Losi has a few different ends out that are VERY stout. They litterally dwarf the Revo ends. I know Yotachump is using some beefy Losi ends,maybe he can get the numbers for his. I'll try and find the numbers for the Losi ends I've got here.

A SUPER easy way to build fairly strong links.....Get some 1/4" and 5/16" brakeline. Figure out what ends you want to run and that'll dictate if you need #8 or #10 all thread. Cut the all thread to length. Sleeve the all thread with the 1/4" line and then sleeve the 1/4" line with the 5/16" line. Typically,you only need to beef up the lowers. The uppers can be used with 1/4" line only.

Some guys like to drill and tap round aluminum for links. It works good,the only reason I stay away from that,is I can't cut threads to save my life:lol: Some guys are using round delrin for links. It's easier to cut threads in that and it's slick so it'll slide easy. Theres a few places you can get it from like Mac Master carr or the likes. I've got so much all thread and brakeline laying around,I just use what I got. If you use delrin for links under a heavy large scale crawler,I'd recommend at least 3/8" round....maybe even 1/2" if your planning on getting above the 10 pound mark."thumbsup"

 

[907STROKER]

Thanks man....... a lot of great info.

Just wanted to put this out there, I logged onto a couple sites and this one by far has given me best info and options without trying to change my mind about things.

I know that electric would be the way to go for crawling, but I want to keep the nitro engine, build it BIG and do it without breaking parts every time I go play.

Thanks again

 

[moparkid88]

when i had my x-factor, i had to keep taking the axles apart and tighten the set screws that held the axles to the diff. i used loctite and still it would come loose. but other then that they were great. the truck is very hard to control at high speed turns because all it will want to do is wheelie. but with the engine in front you should be ok. have fun with it!

 

[Toph]

The Losi rodends part # is LOSB4020. They are the rodends and pivot balls for the LST, and the Aftershock. These are the beefyest rodends you can buy. But if you want the Jato rodends there parts # is 5525. It's ok to keep it nitro, just don't plan to go crawling with it.

 

[907STROKER]

With doing the axle flip to put the engine up front, What is the best way to re-route the exhaust to the (new) rear. Can I use Stainless Steel tubing and make a custom exheust pipe or does it have to have the factory muffler for back pressure. Any pics of this set-up would be great. Thanks in advance.