racin707
Quarry Creeper
I've used rattle can bed liner, on a few of my things, seems to do just fine, sprayed on the out side of course
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Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
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Plasti Dip a rc body ?
- Thread starter twisted
- Start date
killswitch
RCC Addict
I've sprayed it on the inside of bodies before as a protective layer. It will attack parma fascolor but never had an issues with the pactra rattle cans. I've masked off servo cases and always have to make a light cut at the tape edge after it dries to keep it from peeling when removin the mask. I tried taking the mask off once while it was wet and it would "string" like Testor's model glue and made a huge mess.
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
I masked the lines on these:
And when I had enough coats on, I ran an exacto blade along the tape edge and slowly peeled up the masking tape. This is what makes the dip durable, it sticks to itself. These have held up since June, no problem. Once it's cured, the edge is durable, and won't start peeling unless you start to roll the edge.
If you check out the video here the guy shows how to use the masking tape and heavier coats to get that edge.
I'm probably going to use this for a modified wraith cage soon to keep the matte look, and easy to redo if I need to.
And when I had enough coats on, I ran an exacto blade along the tape edge and slowly peeled up the masking tape. This is what makes the dip durable, it sticks to itself. These have held up since June, no problem. Once it's cured, the edge is durable, and won't start peeling unless you start to roll the edge.
If you check out the video here the guy shows how to use the masking tape and heavier coats to get that edge.
I'm probably going to use this for a modified wraith cage soon to keep the matte look, and easy to redo if I need to.
halfcab
RCC Addict
I sprayed the tub of my 73 broncos tub inside and out"thumbsup"
it added about 500lbs:shock:
LineX = no scratches;-)8)
it added about 500lbs:shock:
LineX = no scratches;-)8)
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killswitch
RCC Addict
I've sprayed it on the wheel side of my CD container inner fenders of my honcho too. It looks and feels just like scale under coating.
I've used the shit out of this stuff. Spraying it, dipping it, rattle can and yes if you can unmask while it's still wet it's a little easier. I've peeled it right after my third coat is applied and it usually doesn't fight too much.
I masked the lines on these:
And when I had enough coats on, I ran an exacto blade along the tape edge and slowly peeled up the masking tape. This is what makes the dip durable, it sticks to itself. These have held up since June, no problem. Once it's cured, the edge is durable, and won't start peeling unless you start to roll the edge.
If you check out the video here the guy shows how to use the masking tape and heavier coats to get that edge.
I'm probably going to use this for a modified wraith cage soon to keep the matte look, and easy to redo if I need to.
i plan on using this on my subaru once the weather gets nicer. nice car.
illest1989
Newbie
what about cutting it out 1st, like u would do with liquid masking when painting inside the body?
Also keep in mind that gas and other petroleum based products will turn plastidip into jelly. I used some to coat the inside of. A skid plate on a crf50 to cut down on the plate resonating the motor sounds, and it went on fine, but got eaten up quick because of the Carb overflows and ccv dripping on it.
scrounge
Quarry Creeper
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
Probably looking at plastidip since it's $6 a can compared to the line-x... As soon as it warms up, I'll be spraying some on my JK body, and will post up some pics and a how to...
Oldskoolcj
Quarry Creeper
Thinking the same thing with my 1:1 CJ, spray the whole thing with matte black but keep the hood flames masked, then remove the tape, get a matte black CJ with blood red flames... Nice!
Unless I put it in the "for sale" section...
Post a pic of your body once it's done...
Unless I put it in the "for sale" section...
Post a pic of your body once it's done...
heartless
Quarry Creeper
to get a clean tape/mask removal - a sharp blade run along the edge of the masking is almost essential - even with regular paint.
You dont need to cut deeply, or hard - just enough to break the bond of the paint at the edge of the tape/masking material.
And yes, do this while the paint is still slightly tacky - do not let it fully cure before unmasking.
You dont need to cut deeply, or hard - just enough to break the bond of the paint at the edge of the tape/masking material.
And yes, do this while the paint is still slightly tacky - do not let it fully cure before unmasking.
Kennypo13
Newbie
Use more than one layer of tape and pull off one layer after each coat with tweezers "thumbsup". Would help if each strip is cut in two in different places so you can pull them up from there and not touch the areas you want to it to adhear to. Picture how a band-aid works.
I sprayed my entire yeti body with plasti-dip and it turned out SICK.
it holds up decent but if you roll over, expect it to scuff and peel, almost like scale vinyl wrap.
tropical turquoise from the classic muscle colors. TONS of colors out there! https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/
there are also a ton of tutorials on youtube from dipyourcar. they help understand how it will react and prepping rufaces, cleaning, etc... HIGHLY recommend watching some of their vids before you spray.
anyway... here is my yeti right after I sprayed it. its pretty beat now lol but its easy to peel and do it again!
and here is a more current shot after some abuse... you can see around the corners its scuffed off and peeling a little but that's from like high speed tumble on pavement (my father in law wanted to drag race to see if his sidewinder enhanced yeti was faster lol dunno the outcome we got wrapped up in each others wheels and cartwheeled at WOT lol) anyway here is the pic
it holds up decent but if you roll over, expect it to scuff and peel, almost like scale vinyl wrap.
tropical turquoise from the classic muscle colors. TONS of colors out there! https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/
there are also a ton of tutorials on youtube from dipyourcar. they help understand how it will react and prepping rufaces, cleaning, etc... HIGHLY recommend watching some of their vids before you spray.
anyway... here is my yeti right after I sprayed it. its pretty beat now lol but its easy to peel and do it again!
and here is a more current shot after some abuse... you can see around the corners its scuffed off and peeling a little but that's from like high speed tumble on pavement (my father in law wanted to drag race to see if his sidewinder enhanced yeti was faster lol dunno the outcome we got wrapped up in each others wheels and cartwheeled at WOT lol) anyway here is the pic
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Inspector86
RCC Addict
Dip Your Car has litterally hundreds of colors of Plasi-Dip on their site.
https://www.dipyourcar.com/
https://www.dipyourcar.com/
AngelowDoom
Rock Crawler
Do not recommend plastidip on rc cars at all. It gets scuffed up so fast it is tiresome. Easier to just paint it in a new color on the outside with regular paint than plastidip. Regular paint dries much faster, so you can do the whole paint job in minutes. Plastidip takes hours between each coat. And the regular paint is easier to do multicolored paint jobs, and it is many times stronger. If you want to redo it in a different color later on, just spray on a new color over it. With plastidip you have a tedious pealing job before you can paint it again, especially if it is scuffed up, it is very time consuming to get it all off.
Hours to dry??? Are you litteraly dipping the body in a bucket of plasti dip? I was done in 40 minutes that inclides removing my yeti body from the cage, washing it, drying it, spraying the dip, drying and bolting it back on.
Hours????
Hours????
Ninomaniac
Rock Crawler
AngelowDoom, from my experience everything you said in your post is WROOOONG.
I use it on the inside of bodies. If you spray on a decent thickness (4-5 layers at least) you can peel it off in one go when you want a different paintjob. 10 minutes between layers is enough. Leave overnight to fully cure.
No masking is required because, when fully dry, you can outline the windows (or whatever) with a blade and peel them off!
I use it on the inside of bodies. If you spray on a decent thickness (4-5 layers at least) you can peel it off in one go when you want a different paintjob. 10 minutes between layers is enough. Leave overnight to fully cure.
No masking is required because, when fully dry, you can outline the windows (or whatever) with a blade and peel them off!
