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  • RCSC

Reaper Sand Rail project

daign

Quarry Creeper
Joined
May 28, 2010
Messages
375
Location
Los Angeles
Reaper Sand Rail Chassis
Aluminum Side panels
Stampede Donor roller
Fast Lane Machine Extended Aluminum Arms
Fast Lane Machine Extended CVD
Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
RC4WD Beadlock Wheels
RC4WD 110mm Dual Spring Shocks front and back
Pro-Line Razor Front Tires
Pro-Line Sling Shot Tires
Gmade Light Buckets
Recaro Cell Holder Seats
Castle Creations Mamba Max 5700KV Combo
Turnigy 3s 40c 5000mah Batteries

Going to play with the gearing with the 5700kv combo and if I cant get the performance I want I have a 2250kv Xerun setup I could gear down. I'd like to keep this rig light though.

The goodies so far:

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Love the wheels. Trying to keep this build very scale.

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Mocked up everything on the stampede while waiting for the frame (6 weeks)
Despite not having the Reaper frame I decided to mock up all the Fast Lane Machine extended arms and CVDs.I think I need black aluminum shock towers and steering knuckles/chubs/rear carriers as well.


Will wait until this thing ever comes but here is it all mocked up on the stampede Frame

Front steering not hooked up
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Travel!
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rear.
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Chassis arrived finally.

Quality is on par and the welds are clean. All the Fast Lane Machine extended arms fit great but my shocks are insufficient in the rear and the front honestly. I need way more rebound and spring. Possibly 1/8 scale shocks.

At this stance the shocks in the rear are incapable of rebound at all if compressed. Shocks are at the inner most mount and tightened all the way as well.

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Room for a scale v8 i'd say.
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Suggestions on shocks? These are 110mm Black RC4wds...
 
Very cool project. I'd say 1/8 buggy shocks are the way to go. The standard Ofna buggy shocks are readily available and pretty cheap on Ebay (from Jammin X1, LX-1, MBX, etc.) The older buggies have the smaller 13mm pistons, which I think is fine, no need for 16mm big bores on this. And there are plenty of spring rates available to get the rebound you need.

These are the ones I'm talking about: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-OFNA-ULTRA-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5641dfd6d3

You could run fronts on all 4 corners, or try some rears in the back if you want more travel and droop.

Thanks for the advice. The ofna shocks are the only really affordable ones. I'm already deep into this project and want to keep cost down but I'm not sure thats possible :lol:

I got a set of front and rear OFNA Ultra MBX Comp shocks. Perfect height, tons of travel and good rebound. Adjustable too. The front sits a little high but thats OK. Sand typically requires a lot of travel anyway.

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Great asthetic match too
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Nice Stance. At full travel front and back. Once the motors connected I may need to screw down the shocks a bit in the rear.
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Integy steering kit + E-Maxx aluminum bell crank post. I'll probably use some brake line to fill the gap on top, and a washer/screw to secure the steering linkage from bouncing.
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I need Servo> steering linkage, more lunsford 4-40 ball joints, and to setup some sort of battery tray.

These shocks are a perfect match for the application. Thanks again for the recommendation.

I was down at the beach the other day and saw they had piled up berms to protect the RV park. Perfect Simulated Dunes and jumps!
 
I didnt feel like tracking down some linkage from the servo to the bellcranks so I used some allthread and Axial ball ends to make my own servo linkage.
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I also used the leftover bushings (I swapped out all the bushings for bearings) as spacers on the steering posts.

I left some toe in to keep it stable but might dial some out. I found that in the sand toe in works best.
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I will be ordering this universal Tekno RC mount which is 2" by 5.9", perfect for 3s with the 4700kv.
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I could just use velcro straps to the main chassis but given the abuse cars take in the sand I'd rather have solid mounts.

If I find the time I might have this thing running tomorrow. And then its time to break it all down and prep it for paint/bodywork.
 
I'd do the Jato front arm conversion. It gives you lots of width up front. For your turnbuckles you can use the 61mm jato ones or the 58mm stampede. I'm using the 61 for the steering and the 58 for upper links. All you have to do is sand the bulkhead a little bit for the arms to fit, and the arms a little to fit the fiberglass tie bar. I also used a jato shock for up front since I used the inner most holes in the arms and the stock shocks were way to soft after the conversion.
 
Update:

Painted the cage copper
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Added teckno battery tray
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Plenty of pinion with room to spare. Upgraded the spur later to a 91t aluminum...

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So the copper paint had to be stripped to bare metal. This time I'll be going flat black. I am also looking at upgrading the rear wheels to a wider width so it doesn't get stuck in the sand.

After working on getting the spur replaced and finally getting the ESC calibrated, I ran it before destroying the CVDs. I'd say I'm at the 50mph mark or so. Wider tires are needed.

I'm thinking 2.8 Panthers, but unfortunately all the wheels are horrendously ugly and from RTR traxxas Trucks.

The cage has been repainted to stealth black and working on the wider rear wheel problem.

Anyone have any ideas? I need beadlock 2.2s wide rear and skinnier front. Sent an email to RC4wd...
 
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For wheels,several of the vendors sell their wheels in different widths with seperate hubs in varying widths.Might want to look into mixing and matching to suit your needs.
 
Proline makes a 2.8 size wheel too and it's pretty wide

Your rail looks good. quick Q did ths chassis you have on there now extend the Wheel base?
 
For wheels,several of the vendors sell their wheels in different widths with seperate hubs in varying widths.Might want to look into mixing and matching to suit your needs.

which vendors, definitely not RC4wd I have looked over their wheel comparison chart. No wheel that comes in different widths :oops:
 
Proline makes a 2.8 size wheel too and it's pretty wide

Your rail looks good. quick Q did ths chassis you have on there now extend the Wheel base?

I'll check out the prolines. Yes, The chassis is easily 1/8 scale. This is my 1/5 scale Savage Flux baja 5b conversion next to the rail next to my 1/1 scale dog Ralphie.

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awesome sand rail "thumbsup"

thanks. Its not quite as fast as the baja 5b conversion but it'll get there. Throws a heck of a lot more sand... "thumbsup"
 
which vendors, definitely not RC4wd I have looked over their wheel comparison chart. No wheel that comes in different widths :oops:

Vanquish sells some very good looking wheels that come in different widths."thumbsup"They also have different width bolt on hubs so,you should be able to get the offset you need.I think Mayhem sells them that way also.
Was thinking about some for my baja Bug Slash.I'll either try theirs or,make my own.All depends on money and ambition.:ror:
 
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Here's a pic of my sandrail (soon to be in the for sale section) with the 3.2 proline beadlocks and panther 3.2 sand paddles on the rear with 2.2's on the front. May look ridiculous on your frame setup though.

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Due to paint problems the car had to be stripped and repainted. I chose good ole matte black. Tough, easy and goes well with aluminum.

The receiver is mounted now after I took these pictures. had to relocate it for the gopro for video tomorrow. I'm running 3s on this thing and it ripped a paddle in half and the beadlock held. I may have to switch to full 2.2 wheels from Vanquish because these short course tires may be too weak at the 3" width.

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Still undecided about side/roof panel colors...

Video tomorrow.
 
I've gone through 2 sets of stock jato CVDs and 2 sets of Extended CVDs from Fastlane whom refuses to respond to my emails.

I had to fashion up some temporary suspension limit straps until I can find a CVD that works or actually use something more scale, for now I just used some decent gauge wire to keep the dogbones in the cups. Those are MIP cups. Figured I'd give those a try this time.

Hoping for some 70mph footage tomorrow if this sucker quits breaking on me every outing....

wrapped next to shocks.


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Compressed:
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Full droop
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Test run with FLM CVDs and MIP Cups with limiting straps. Worked pretty well...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKJZd7oVNZg&hd=1

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