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SCREAMER's F-Bomber
- Thread starter SCREAMER
- Start date
cmbscx10
I wanna be Dave
Such an awesome rig. Well both actually. Love the detail and well thought platforms on both. "thumbsup""thumbsup"
Question? Where are the running videos and Slo-Mo suspension action? Want to see the XL power :twisted:
Yoda, I may install the interiors later but as for now it's so much easier to work on and access everything with them out. I can adjust ESC settings, tighten/check the driveshaft screws at the outputs, even adjust gear mesh or swap pinion gears without having to drop the skid or remove one screw. Plus, I think it helps keep the electronics cooler getting more airflow through there.
Nsimps, me too man.
CMB, thank you! I'm pretty bad when it comes to computer stuff. I wish it was as easy for me as it is for other people to shoot a quick video then put it into a post. I am really going to have to teach myself how to do this because I know that pictures are worth a thousand words and videos are even better.
Nsimps, me too man.
CMB, thank you! I'm pretty bad when it comes to computer stuff. I wish it was as easy for me as it is for other people to shoot a quick video then put it into a post. I am really going to have to teach myself how to do this because I know that pictures are worth a thousand words and videos are even better.
Taking and editing videos takes an enormous amount of time and effort. Not only do you have to take the time to setup the camera and film, you then have to edit the video. This of course is if you are trying to do something more than just a quick clip. The end results are worth it but figure about an hour of editing time for every minute of finished video you want to have.
That being said you can do quick 15/20 second clips pretty easily if you have another person who can hold the camera (phone?) steady while you drive.
Again great thread. It is helping quite a few of us with direction on our current/future builds.
That being said you can do quick 15/20 second clips pretty easily if you have another person who can hold the camera (phone?) steady while you drive.
Again great thread. It is helping quite a few of us with direction on our current/future builds.
Bent my second rear axle shaft on Qwiksilver today after a light rollover so I've decided I'm done buying Axial OCP shaft sets at $18 a pop. I'm actually going to address 2 issues at once here. First is track width. With Qwiksilver being a faster build, I was looking for as much track width as I could get for stability and to prevent as many tumbles as possible. I'm currently running 600 SLWs because at the time I ordered them, no one had 725s or 850s in stock. Running these longer hubs was obviously putting more leverage on the axle shaft than it could take which brings me to the second issue. Beef. I simply need stronger axle shafts. I'm not quite ready to drop $500 on an 1808 rear axle from DLux so I'm going to try the next step up.
Enter the SSD Yeti width centered rear axle. For around $160 shipped from RPP with coupon code, I was able to get the axle housing, skid, a set of SSD HD replacement shafts and another LURC FI spool. I already have an HD ring and pinion and bearings. This will give me more width, allowing me to run shorter SLW hubs putting less leverage on stronger axle shafts. Hopefully no more bent shafts. Another added benefit from running the centered rear is, I'll effectively have twice as many replacement shafts because they are equal length. With the AR60, if I bent a short side I had to buy both and hope next time I bent the long side. Well, with my luck I bent 2 short sides. Of course the SSD axle also comes with inner and outer larger pinion bearings and a stronger one piece aluminum housing. I'm hoping all of these things add up to give me the strength I need and a bit more width.
I've never had any issues with the very beefy Vanquish VVDs so to compensate for the rear axle width I'll just run wider 725 SLW hubs in front which I was able to get ordered today from eBay. Stay tuned for install pics and full review.
Enter the SSD Yeti width centered rear axle. For around $160 shipped from RPP with coupon code, I was able to get the axle housing, skid, a set of SSD HD replacement shafts and another LURC FI spool. I already have an HD ring and pinion and bearings. This will give me more width, allowing me to run shorter SLW hubs putting less leverage on stronger axle shafts. Hopefully no more bent shafts. Another added benefit from running the centered rear is, I'll effectively have twice as many replacement shafts because they are equal length. With the AR60, if I bent a short side I had to buy both and hope next time I bent the long side. Well, with my luck I bent 2 short sides. Of course the SSD axle also comes with inner and outer larger pinion bearings and a stronger one piece aluminum housing. I'm hoping all of these things add up to give me the strength I need and a bit more width.
I've never had any issues with the very beefy Vanquish VVDs so to compensate for the rear axle width I'll just run wider 725 SLW hubs in front which I was able to get ordered today from eBay. Stay tuned for install pics and full review.
Sad to hear about the bad luck on getting the short stick, twice. Looking forward to how the SSD holds up. They are a great looking axle. I've wondered what the advantage of the centered rear axle is apart from looks but now it makes sense. easier to have spares on hand with same length axle shafts.
Keep the updates going
Keep the updates going
I was finally able to get the crawler out for a full run this weekend with some friends and the recent changes did not disappoint. Just to recap, the latest tweaks were dropping from a 13t pinion to a 12t, the addition of the DLux anti sway bar, and adding just a bit of expo to the throttle and steering. Each of these improved performance in a noticeable way and I'm really feeling like no other changes are needed. I was able to hit a lot of various obstacles including rock, sand, gravel, wet everything and she performs extremely well. After spending some more time with the Falken Wildpeaks I'm very impressed with their performance as well. I had grip everywhere and couldn't find any significant weak areas so I can confidently recommend these tires if you're looking for something tall and narrow with a ton of grip. The CI comp cut inner medium outer foams seem to be the perfect combo for this rig.
I also have a whole bunch of goodies showing up today to include my SSD Yeti width axle for Qwiksilver so stay tuned for an update on that build as well.
I also have a whole bunch of goodies showing up today to include my SSD Yeti width axle for Qwiksilver so stay tuned for an update on that build as well.
Attachments
So rad. Love seeing you build two different rigs with the same platform. I'll be targeting the crawler style to hopefully get more of a wraith crawler feel while being stable at speed for the few times the throttle really gets used.
Question: When you mention adding expo to the throttle, what does that curve look like? I'm in the process of setting up my MMP to be easily tuned without pulling a bunch of stuff out every time. Maybe even your general settings would be a good baseline for reference if you are ok sharing that.
Carry on and have fun building the new goodies arriving!
Question: When you mention adding expo to the throttle, what does that curve look like? I'm in the process of setting up my MMP to be easily tuned without pulling a bunch of stuff out every time. Maybe even your general settings would be a good baseline for reference if you are ok sharing that.
Carry on and have fun building the new goodies arriving!
Drm31078
Rock Crawler
Crawler looks sweet! Love the blue wheels. Definitely inspiring my build.
Thanks fellas! Nsimps, I've used throttle curve in the MMP settings before but since discovering the expo setting on my Spektrum DX4C, all my throttle curves stay flat in the ESC and I do all that type of tuning at the remote. The biggest reason is, as you stated, pulling everything apart is much more time consuming for something that I feel you can get the same results at the remote. I'm using 30% forward throttle expo, 40% steering expo, and zero reverse expo but reverse throttle is limited to 50% in the MMP menu. I'm also running 20% punch control because I had real bad stuttering with the 2200kv motor at full throttle starts from a standstill. She runs amazing now and after 2 and a half hours of crawling and bashing I couldn't kill a 5000mah battery. I'm extremely happy with my run times now. I'm running medium startup power and 30% drag brake in the ESC as well.
Sensored only or Smart Sense? Sensored only seems to be smoother on mine, but Smart Sense is supposed to be more efficent? At least that's what Castle says... The MMP product page is pretty dismissive of our end of the hobby.
"SmartSense uses the motor sensors to start the motor and then it switches over to Castle’s ultra powerful and efficient dynamic sensorless mode which boosts motor efficiency. Simply put, you’ll get more power and less heat from your motor."
"OK, now I’m confused. Is Sensored better than Sensorless?
The answer is that for most users, Sensorless operation is still better. "
:lmao:
"SmartSense uses the motor sensors to start the motor and then it switches over to Castle’s ultra powerful and efficient dynamic sensorless mode which boosts motor efficiency. Simply put, you’ll get more power and less heat from your motor."
"OK, now I’m confused. Is Sensored better than Sensorless?
The answer is that for most users, Sensorless operation is still better. "
:lmao:
I'm running it on Smart Sense. Holmes himself posted a while back confirming that sensored only running is very poor for efficiency but, if you're having good results I'd stick with it. I may have to try it sometime just for comparison though it's hard to imagine this motor being any better.
That makes sense. I may have to do that with mine although I'm running a different radio. Same concept though.
As far as drag brake settings go, I set mine initially to the crawler setting and it doesn't seem to be right for this rig. How is yours doing with that 30% drag brake? Does it do well when crawling or are you having to use the throttle to keep it steady?
Thanks for the quick replies and good info. This is a great thread!
As far as drag brake settings go, I set mine initially to the crawler setting and it doesn't seem to be right for this rig. How is yours doing with that 30% drag brake? Does it do well when crawling or are you having to use the throttle to keep it steady?
Thanks for the quick replies and good info. This is a great thread!
HahnsB2
Quarry Creeper
One option to make using the Castle link easier is to use a short extension, this will give you an external connection point rather than having to open the receiver box.
bilinvic
I wanna be Dave
That's how I wire all my rigs."thumbsup"
generalee7
Rock Crawler
A Y connector? Not a bad idea actually, I need to do that. It's a pain pulling the receiver top off every time I want to change a setting.
The best way to do the Y connector is to pick up one of Holmes' $6 RX bypasses. You can kill three birds with that stone. Extension for external plug, easy quick ESC bypass for your BEC, and frees up a spot on the receiver.
Nsimps, for me, for this rig 30% drag break is great. Chop the throttle at wide full open and doesn't front flip, and still holds well crawling. Very rarely do I have to hold throttle to hold position.
Nsimps, for me, for this rig 30% drag break is great. Chop the throttle at wide full open and doesn't front flip, and still holds well crawling. Very rarely do I have to hold throttle to hold position.