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SCX24 Bobbed Taco

addiemonster

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Mar 27, 2019
Messages
182
Location
Sacramento
Nothing really special here, just another SCX24 with an AMT Taco body on it. Dropping this one on a Deadbolt, going for low with big tires. Anyone know anything about widening the track width on an SCX24? Not finding anything in my searches.

Anyway, here's the bobbed shell. Going for a "trailer trash" aesthetic - meaning something definitely not road legal for a multitude of safety reasons and requires trailering to your local spot. Deadbolt should be here by Monday, just finished the bob job so I was too excited to wait for it to show up. :roll:

eOHMycD.jpg
 
You can widen a little for cheap with wheel hexes from an ECX Barrage/RGT Adventurer/FTX Outback, HobbyPlus CR-24/CR-18.

Using just about any other wheel will give you more offset and width compared to stock wheels.

Jim has some high offset wheels available on his shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/lynxmicrotech

And also there's Mil Stone brass weight hex extensions. Which of course also add some weight.
There's other weight options but Mil stone has been good to the micro crawler scene for many years and they are the original hex weights.

I'm not really a fan of the hot racing setup.


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Nothing really special here, just another SCX24 with an AMT Taco body on it. Dropping this one on a Deadbolt, going for low with big tires. Anyone know anything about widening the track width on an SCX24? Not finding anything in my searches.



Anyway, here's the bobbed shell. Going for a "trailer trash" aesthetic - meaning something definitely not road legal for a multitude of safety reasons and requires trailering to your local spot. Deadbolt should be here by Monday, just finished the bob job so I was too excited to wait for it to show up. :roll:



eOHMycD.jpg
It's looking good, maybe add some rocker rust, or even full on rust holes into it to add to the trailer trash look? Aside from wheels people do make brass and even 3d printed hub spacers for these, and I believe I've seen a thread on here just talking about spacing methods. Rc4wd wagon wheels as i call them (the stamped steel wheels) I believe you can flip them and run them backwards giving a higher offset, and a deep dish look. I've been waiting on mine for about a month now though so good luck getting them in stock.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Awesome info guys, thanks! I'm probably ordering a full Mil Stone brass set next pay period. I really appreciate the info, as I'm totally new to micros.

I'm deffo adding lots of rot, rust, and dents to this shell. Mismatched panels, as well. Basically I want it to look like it's falling apart, inspired by Colin Smith's rickety old Yota.
 
Working on these things is just too much fun, totally forgot to take pictures along the way. :roll:

Q2fDRiI.jpg


Short list of mods:

Relocated front shocks to the frame rails, allowing more rolling pressure on the front of the front tires. Helps the tire smoothly roll over obstacles rather than skip up and down against it.

Relocated rear shock mounts one hole forward, this, as well as with the front relocation, lowers the truck a bit, but also adds stability when the truck is climbing.

Cut the fake shock reservoirs off all four shocks as the tires kept grabbing them.

Relocated ESC/Rx to just above the gearbox, evening out the weight bias and using the new location in conjunction with the model kit's dashboard to hold the battery. Truck is much more balanced front to rear and front/back flips less common.

Axial Meth Head wheels with RC4WD Patagonias, stock foams.

EMAX servo on the way.

Full set of Mil Stone track wideners/wheel weights on the way.

Rx switch for the headlights on the way.

Obviously, 1/20 AMT Yota body.

Shoe Goo'd a stripped-out nyloc nut under the hood, and a magnet to the underside of the hood to hold it all closed.

Removed stock Deadbolt body and Shoe Goo'd the hinge to the underside of the Toyota's bed.Hinge function retained, using reversed stock front body posts to "clamp" the inner fenders under the hood.

Huh. That was more work than I thought it was. Probably looking into stronger/longer run time batteries next. Still need to do rust effects, but I'm happy with how it sits now. Just waiting on a few aforementioned mods to show up, and I think she's done.

lBPD6dR.jpg


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e8pNlYD.jpg


GPQdxmI.jpg


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Seen here with my Mini-Z on my indoor crawler course, which is shaping up rather nicely, I think, considering it's the first time I've ever tried anything like this! 8)

nEkDtOQ.jpg


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