• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Shock Oil

I start with 35 or 40wt. Anything lower than 30 seems to result in some pretty floppy suspension. But oil weight will also depend on your suspension configuration, the weight of the rig, etc...
 
ya its a lot of trial and error, but generally speaking spring set ups use a lighter oil and droop uses heavier, i run full droop and have 80wt all around
 
i started with 35wt with a sprung system then went to 70wt with droop, but i'm gonna go to 60wt and see how that works....i need just a tad faster response...............bob

....
 
I run 50wt in all of my shocks.It is a good starting point and seems to provide a firm yet movable suspension and very smooth action.But that depends on the weight of your rig also.But 50 wt is great to start with.
 
I have some 45wt is that going to be close enough to 50wt or should I get some 50?
 
I think it depends on what the truck set up is. I run 30 in the front of my AX10 and 55/85 in the rear. But i only run 10wt in my Berg. Both use Losi White springs. Also, the amount of holes in the piston can make a difference too.

Trial and error :o)
 
I think it depends on what the truck set up is. I run 30 in the front of my AX10 and 55/85 in the rear. But i only run 10wt in my Berg. Both use Losi White springs. Also, the amount of holes in the piston can make a difference too.

Trial and error :o)


Trial and error is right! I have soft Losi springs and 45wt oil front and rear on my scx-10, and its pretty close for me.

Depends on your rig and driving style."thumbsup"
 
people think im crazy but i run 17 1/2wt i love my SPRUNG set up it reacts fast like my driving style and i only have a tad bit of tourqe twist but it isn enough to bother me. one or 2 hole in my pistions is what im running. good luck
 
I have some 45wt is that going to be close enough to 50wt or should I get some 50?

Yah 45 weight will be just fine,It will make the suspension react just a little faster which may suit your style of driving.Either way it's a good place to start out.Then you can go lighter or heavier depending on the reaction speed of you suspension.
 
so I take it as the lower the wt the thinner the oil, so the faster it allows the shock to go up?? how about the " holes " on the round piece inside the shock?? more hole = faster flow??
 
so I take it as the lower the wt the thinner the oil, so the faster it allows the shock to go up?? how about the " holes " on the round piece inside the shock?? more hole = faster flow??

Yes,the more holes the faster it will let the fluid pass by,therefore speeding it up...I myself usually use whatever valve that comes stock with the shocks,most only come with one set anyways and adjust the speed of the the shock with different weight fluid.But you can do whatever youd like,testin and tuning is how you will get the best set up for your driving anyways."thumbsup"..But as I stated I have had great success with 50wt..Something closs to that is great place to start.
 
how about if my shocks are not bottomed out and it starts to " lift " the truck? if I manually compress the shocks by lifting the wheel, I notice I have a little more travel before it bottom out, I think I lose a little articulation when this happens, do I use a softer spring? OP sorry about the thread jack
 
how about if my shocks are not bottomed out and it starts to " lift " the truck? if I manually compress the shocks by lifting the wheel, I notice I have a little more travel before it bottom out, I think I lose a little articulation when this happens, do I use a softer spring? OP sorry about the thread jack
Yah you could use a softer spring,or lighter weight oil.But a little lift is not always a bad thing,sometimes it helps make your rig more predictable IMO.What I mean is if you are liftting the front wheel and the rear rises before full compression of the front shock,saying that the front shock is close to full compression,I have noticed that it helps to carry the rear tire over holes or such where if it was set up softer they would fall in and can sometime hang you up.But like I said testing and tuning to your personal driving style is what will make the difference in the end.I hope this answers your question.If not let me know.
 
Yah you could use a softer spring,or lighter weight oil.But a little lift is not always a bad thing,sometimes it helps make your rig more predictable IMO.What I mean is if you are liftting the front wheel and the rear rises before full compression of the front shock,saying that the front shock is close to full compression,I have noticed that it helps to carry the rear tire over holes or such where if it was set up softer they would fall in and can sometime hang you up.But like I said testing and tuning to your personal driving style is what will make the difference in the end.I hope this answers your question.If not let me know.

thanks for the info. I'll drive it more around the back yard a try to run over more stuff."thumbsup"
 
It's probably lifting the wheel due to hydraulic lock. When you fill your shock with oil, then compress it, the rod begins to move into the housing. Since fluid won't compress (much) the rod reaches a point where it can't move any farther into the housing.

I like to leave about a quarter inch of air in the top of my shocks, since air will compress. This gives me the full travel of the shock, and also in my experience helps to prevent leaks and shock caps popping off.

Hope this makes sense.
 
Back
Top