MAXXMASHER
Rock Crawler
Nice work, indeed! May just have to copy some of this!
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Sold my project car and I bought an Ascender!
- Thread starter jaydubya2003
- Start date
jaydubya2003
Pebble Pounder
Thanks guys, I was really excited about how the wheel wells came out.
Feel free to copy it, just mention me ;-)
jaydubya2003
Pebble Pounder
So you want nifty cool aluminum inner fender/floor plans like these!?!
You'll need a few tools, and these supplies here.
A roll of aluminum roof flashing (smallest one at home depot was plenty)
A sharpie to make your marks for your bends
A good pair of tin snips
A good sturdy ruler with a metal edge
A sheet of "Fun Foam" or generic foam pad honestly (it's thin stuff about a 16th of an inch)
A tape measure for the overall length measurement (yard stick could work too)
I used the sheet metal hand bender for a few bends but honestly it worked just as well or better with holding the ruler flat down across the bend and against the table to form the bends.
The foam pad can be found at your local craft store, the tin snips can be found at home depot along with everything else you'll need.
I did a lot of this by just eyeballing it and seeing what fit so I'll do my best to explain with what pictures I took
You'll want to measure the width you'll need from your frame rail out to either the outer edge of your tire or your rock slider. I split the difference and ended up with 3.5 inches. Once you have that width, you'll want to roll out your aluminum out and decide on a length that will leave you with some extra at each end for fine tuning once all the bends are in place I settled on 25 inchs in length. Once you have your length cut your sheet out to make it more manageable and mark from an edge to the center that width measurement. Keep doin that down a length of aluminum you've decided on until you've got some dotted lines to use as reference points, be sure to do this on both sides of the sheet starting from the edge to the center. Once that's done you'll have two strips drawn on your sheet, cut them out and set one aside.
From here I took the the strips I had put one against the rear bumper, then I measured from the tire out about 1.5 inches for the start of my first bend. From that first bend I went 2.5 inches and made the next bend to form the top of the inner fender.
From there I went another 2.5 inches to finish the shape of the inner fender. Repeat this process for all the other fenders using whatever measurement you've decided for the clearance around your tire.
Once you've made the fender you'll want to create the inside/lining, this is where the foam comes in. I started with a rectangle cut out of the foam that covered all of the area inside the shape of the fender I wanted to cover. I then folded the corners in and cut off the access to form shapes like this.
From there I punched little holes in the left over "tabs" and cut slits under each whole like this.
I used those holes to provide where I was going to drill into each fender.
I used small black zip ties to hold the inner fenders and liner together.
Inside I just ran the shock up to it's location, pressed the bolt through, and that also helped stabilize the whole thing.
To provide the center mounting point I drilled the "floor pan" on either side of the slider bars and zip tied it there.
Once it's all done you end up with inner fenders, liners, and a good look.
You'll need a few tools, and these supplies here.
A roll of aluminum roof flashing (smallest one at home depot was plenty)
A sharpie to make your marks for your bends
A good pair of tin snips
A good sturdy ruler with a metal edge
A sheet of "Fun Foam" or generic foam pad honestly (it's thin stuff about a 16th of an inch)
A tape measure for the overall length measurement (yard stick could work too)
I used the sheet metal hand bender for a few bends but honestly it worked just as well or better with holding the ruler flat down across the bend and against the table to form the bends.
The foam pad can be found at your local craft store, the tin snips can be found at home depot along with everything else you'll need.
I did a lot of this by just eyeballing it and seeing what fit so I'll do my best to explain with what pictures I took
You'll want to measure the width you'll need from your frame rail out to either the outer edge of your tire or your rock slider. I split the difference and ended up with 3.5 inches. Once you have that width, you'll want to roll out your aluminum out and decide on a length that will leave you with some extra at each end for fine tuning once all the bends are in place I settled on 25 inchs in length. Once you have your length cut your sheet out to make it more manageable and mark from an edge to the center that width measurement. Keep doin that down a length of aluminum you've decided on until you've got some dotted lines to use as reference points, be sure to do this on both sides of the sheet starting from the edge to the center. Once that's done you'll have two strips drawn on your sheet, cut them out and set one aside.
From here I took the the strips I had put one against the rear bumper, then I measured from the tire out about 1.5 inches for the start of my first bend. From that first bend I went 2.5 inches and made the next bend to form the top of the inner fender.
From there I went another 2.5 inches to finish the shape of the inner fender. Repeat this process for all the other fenders using whatever measurement you've decided for the clearance around your tire.
Once you've made the fender you'll want to create the inside/lining, this is where the foam comes in. I started with a rectangle cut out of the foam that covered all of the area inside the shape of the fender I wanted to cover. I then folded the corners in and cut off the access to form shapes like this.
From there I punched little holes in the left over "tabs" and cut slits under each whole like this.
I used those holes to provide where I was going to drill into each fender.
I used small black zip ties to hold the inner fenders and liner together.
Inside I just ran the shock up to it's location, pressed the bolt through, and that also helped stabilize the whole thing.
To provide the center mounting point I drilled the "floor pan" on either side of the slider bars and zip tied it there.
Once it's all done you end up with inner fenders, liners, and a good look.
Last edited:
jaydubya2003
Pebble Pounder
So after my first comp this is what the truck looked like.
As you can see from the photos it held up pretty good, it tumbled down more than one hill, got bound up under full throttle, and splashed through some mud/water. The floor pans/inner fenders did a great job, but I do need to figure out some form of "mount" for the front and rear pieces as they worked their way loose throughout the day.
You can also see where the body developed it's first crack on the passenger rear corner.
As you can see from the photos it held up pretty good, it tumbled down more than one hill, got bound up under full throttle, and splashed through some mud/water. The floor pans/inner fenders did a great job, but I do need to figure out some form of "mount" for the front and rear pieces as they worked their way loose throughout the day.
You can also see where the body developed it's first crack on the passenger rear corner.
Gorillak5
Newbie
Looks awesome! I'm definitely going to copy a few things once I get mine!
jaydubya2003
Pebble Pounder
Not a problem Gorilla, do me a favor and point folks my way if you copy an idea "thumbsup"
So after my first comp this is what the truck looked like.
As you can see from the photos it held up pretty good, it tumbled down more than one hill, got bound up under full throttle, and splashed through some mud/water. The floor pans/inner fenders did a great job, but I do need to figure out some form of "mount" for the front and rear pieces as they worked their way loose throughout the day.
You can also see where the body developed it's first crack on the passenger rear corner.
Nice truck that you're getting lots of wheeling with! Thanks for sharing your inner fenders/floorpan idea, a thin bead of black or clear E6000 or ShoeGoo would help hold it together where it's zip-tied. Clean up the body, stick on drywall mesh tape inside, then coat with E6000 or ShoeGoo is a great way to repair and reinforce the body. That's what's holding together my original Honcho body lol.
Your body sits just right after you trimmed an lowered it. "thumbsup"
Nice, did you notch both piston holes or just one per shock? Mine crawls great with stock shock setup, but yes kinda bouncy at speed. How is your before and after crawling with notched pistons and 30wt oil?
jaydubya2003
Pebble Pounder
So very sorry for the unbelievably late reply...
Sold the Ascender, moved across the country, haven't pickup up a transmitter in years.
Thanks for the praise, I really liked where the truck was going. As for the shocks, I notched both holes and noticed that it took a lot of the "bounce" out of trail driving and let the shocks compress a bit faster when rock crawling. One negative I never was able to tune out before I got rid of it was some excessive bounce on hill climbs here and there. Could have also been my lack of experience/stock electronics.
