• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Soldering brushed motor's commutator?

usert_l

Newbie
Joined
Oct 25, 2019
Messages
43
Location
Texas
I'm thinking of getting a couple of the Tamiya 23T Super Stock motors for a Clod Buster build in the future. They look like very good quality motors for the price. Should provide much better performance compared to the typical silver can kit motors included in Tamiya kits. 26,500 - 27,500 RPM and 500 g-cm torque.

I know that high performance hand wound motors typically have the winding soldered directly to the commutator's tabs for better performance. Most machine wound armatures don't have this. I think they're crimped on instead. So I thought about a little tinkering and try soldering the comm's tabs. I don't know if high temp soldering can have a bad effect on the comm ... like warping the comm's segments due to the high temperature ... High Pb content (high temp) solder melts at 560+ °F so I would have to crank my soldering station to near max setting if I do try this. Has anyone tried this before with success? Or is it too risky and I should leave the motor alone the way it is :D ?
 
I suspect you would just open a can of worms for not much benefit. Maybe JRH will chime in but personally I would not attempt it too much potential down side.
 
I agree with the can of worms.

Windings are done with magnet wire which has a clear thin layer of polyurethane (or similar) coating. With machine winding, the crimp pierces the insulation to make the contact with the wire. If you want to add solder, you'll have a tough time to clear out the thin coating around the crimp area so solder can adhere to the magnet wire. And if you are not careful, you can disturb the insulation on the adjacent wires and and cause shorts.
 
This is not why hand wound motors are better. don't bother soldering that for no reason. Some hand wound motors are better then machine wound because they manage to fit more copper winding in the motor. I say some, because I doubt I could wrap an arm any better then the machine can, but Holmes does, that's why they are better, More copper. Secret exposed... goto.play(Unsolved-Mysteries.mp3)
 
Last edited:
Appreciate all the feedbacks guys. I'll leave these budget motors alone if I end up getting them, maybe just swap the bushings out for bearings. And leave it to the pros who can build high spec hand wound motors if I want the best performance.
 
Back
Top