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Spiike's SCX10 Jeep 4 Door (Caution Picture Heavy)

Update everyone, I hope not too many pictures for you most. and please feel free to leave comments and opinions, suggestions, thoughts. i wont take any harsh critism.

As promised, Baja Claws. mounted. stickers, stucked and super glued.

built a speaker box out of styrene, first time ever playing with styrene, carpeted it, installed 2x 12" clarion subs, havent figured out what amp to use yet. going to polish up those aluminum subs as well make em look shiny.

fixed the sticky weights as well so they dont interfere with the rubber movement. what do you guys think? oh i did calculations, with this 1/8th scale body these baja claws would be 36" in 1:1 so these are pretty accurate sized tires for a street legal 4 door jeep drivin down the road i think good size ratio

Night crawl video check it!

http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums...10 4dr Jeep/?action=view&current=SAM_1611.mp4


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update

building a steel plate for the rear 4 link.
tightened and greased bearings and screws on axles.
waterproofed servo
rebuilt drive shafts with new thread lock. also used red thread lock on the actual driveshaft elbow. and blue on the shaft itself and where the shaft meats the transmissions and axles.

pics soon:mrgreen:
 
Update Here i built a fishing pole, I just need to find a way to make a reel. I used skewers and paper clips with a peice of styrophome. lol

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So here, I was sittin there thinking about the steering link and a way to lower it any, i found the angled peices for the 3 link, and the other peices for the tie rod worked perfectly with a 8mm from the 3 link setup, and a peice of the other 3 link setup that ties in with the 106mm links. So that being said, put all the peices together, and works perfectly, i'm also using the hitec servo arm, it has a 1mm longer throw. I also opened my steering wheel on my axial 27mhz 2ch remote and removed the knobs so that i could turn the wheel an extra 2mm giving me full control of the servo. but then realised the screw heads on the C cup thing for my steering and the pumpkin also blocks further movement. oh and also the CV joint itself limits further movement in the steering. however I still have the full servo control + extra and below is pictures of artculating on rocks

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Here is some shots of the articulation, and the new steering link i figured out.
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Went fishing, with a few buddies and caught a bunch of rainbow
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Went up the mountain, caught a few shots with the camera, but then the motor overheated, so i stole some rocks and brought them home with me.
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Went shopping, Had my jeep sittin there, then realised this jeep had Baja claws, so i parked and had the digicam with me so i shot a few pics, nice truck, lady driven so its not been 4x4ing, but the mickey thompsons were beautiful sittin beside my RC
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Keep watching I have more projects up my sleeve, this jeep ain't done!
 
update, i broke my front output shaft on my transmission, so i'm stuck in front wheel drive.

thinking of ways to move my rock sliders into a different position, if not, going to maybe wash up my truck and put wheel wells and full undercarriage, which involves removing all electronical wires and possibly shock towers, so maybe a big clean up here soon. i'm broke and have low cash to buy the new solid steel output shafts for my transmission :(

any input guys on what else i could do before putting all the wires back in?
 
Wow, your truck is amazing! The fine details are so inspiring to me. Where did you get that little green jeep and what brand is it. I want one for mine, thanks!
 
its a maisto. and thank you very much. many hours have gone into this beast.

update.

bought rpp 20T steel transmission gear.
bought rpp solid steel transmission output shafts
bought integy 1/10 scale large roof rack

replaced broken transmission output shafts with all steel, greased tranny up.
installed roof rack on removal hardtop

pictures later :)
 
why thank you very much!!

i exceeded bandwidth. think it was the too many pictures lol, I will try and get that sorted out, donate twenty and start a new thread and upload pictures to rcc.com instead. keeping Photobucket as a Link with photo album with the excessive pictures.

Took my truck out for a drive, burnt up a 3rd RC4WD 35T motor today. I think its just because of the 7 cell nimh, and the 5 lbs the truck weighs, play for an hour and she smells like burnt electronics.

even made the axial 27T motor smell a bit. my future plan is to get one of those new tekken heavy duty 45T motors their new line up of products, i've heard good things about tekken, and i want to stay away from brushless and expensive brushed motors, and the 45T seems to run around fifty bucks. buy a spare axial 27T, and buy a axial 20T motor to play with when i'm bored!
 
I haven't had much time for too much computer, I rarely get much chance to play video games anymore which is another hobby of mine. anyways update. I noticed that all 4 of my cheap motors overheat too easy, so that is a must upgrade before I go ahead and purchase a 4channel traxxis tx+rx from the LHS to run winch and possibly a 2 speed summit trans and keep the lights on switchs hanging under the chassis or above, may relocate them, who knows! Anyways, back to the motors, the 3 RC4WD 35T motors I have were cheap, but I didn't think that we would go through them so quickly, even with trying to find the right pinion to go with it, Right now currently running 87T spur with a 15T pinion on the 35T motor, and I can get around 35-45 minute runtime on the rocks. Then she smells, but after 20 minutes cooldown I can go another 35-45 minutes easy! I notice when to stop because the torque just dissappears. I also managed to burn the 27T axial motor too! trying to do some rock crawling with a 19T pinion was a bad idea in 35 celcius temperatures. So lessons be learnt. climate changes, being 1500 ft up above sea level may have possibly have something to do with that, I'm not quite sure. I may purchase another 27T axial motor and continue with what I know worked well before was a 15T pinion good speed and good crawl capability till my LHS orders some Tekkin HD motors, then I may try a 45T for crawl. and the axial 20T motor for mud boggin/trail ridin! I was also thinking that the 8.4v batteries i run may effect the motors too. but they do handle 10 cell. i think they lie. any input guys?"thumbsup"
 
That's some harsh luck you're having with your motors....

I'm using a 6 cell nimh (Wolfpack 3600) and no problem whatsoever with heating. I'm the one getting burned out after about a 1 1/2 to 2 hour session lol!
 
damn spike what the heck are you doing to those motors:shock:, ive got the same ones on my BULLY for over a year now, but then again i dont play in the mud with it. i like your idea on the heavy duty motor, plus its rebuildable should save you some cash in the long run. good luck bro keep us up to date"thumbsup"
 
Update here finally, I was busy doing other stuff and had some family stuff going on, anyways here it is, i built this for my brother in law, full LED kit, no reverse, no turn signal, no dimming brake lights, just basic ON/OFF timaya hijack, custom built by myself. thought I would show you guys. Took a electronic board, cut it to appropriate length and width, soldered positive wire to the board, ran resisters from the positive. then ran the negitive then all output wires were soldered right to the board. running 2 white LEDs on bumper chassis, and 2 red for bumper chassis, also removeable if you don't want so many lights. then an extension wire that runs to another set of a electronics board with same thing but more, 2 red lights for brake lights, and 2 white lights for head lamps, and 4 white lights to run a lightbar. all with a power switch to save power during day runs.. easily convertible to a receiver connection and not sure how to turn it off/on with a remote yet.


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Action shots in Princeton BC by the river
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Here is my brother in law's scx10 4dr jeep. the one i built the LED kit for.
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haven't done much modding recently due to a 3 ch $55 metal lifetime warranty mini-training helicoptor. anyways. havin plans for cutting an area for the fairlead to run inside the skid plate. thinking of removing the back tire and replacing it with the black hardplastic that was there originallly. anyways, will post pictures later :)
 
i moved my bumper. moved my fairlead for the winch. pics soon. been playing lots. cut my thumb and got 3 stitches hard to type
 
Finally bought some accessories, but im leaving them off when i crawl, too much extra weight to perform well. hilift jack, water jug, beer keg, axe, pick axe, shovel, jerry can.

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Here I broke a c hub carrior. bought aluminum c hubs.

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This was all taken out at my bro in law rock pile.

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Here is a local beach we found, took a few pictures.

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Here I took pictures of the front bumper, and the fairlead, told you guys i moved it.

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at the risk of sounding stupid, where do you put the 6 mm spacers to make this body fit? I have a honcho and a body and I cannot figure out where to buy the spacers or what to search for. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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