Spiitz' Bully 2 build a.k.a. "Hammond"

[Spiitz Travsky]

If you can get ahold of one of those servo mounts that brings the servo over to the gear case. It will allow you to move the front axle link shock mount in to the inner holes.

Josh, I will be picking up some of the NCD accessories from Tomi when he gets back in April. Not sure if his servo mount will provide enough room to move the mounts in to the next set of holes. It seems pretty close to the gear case on his build, but it does not look like he could move the mounts in any further based on his photos.

I run the front uppers towards the outside at the chassis and the rears to the inside at the chassis.

Rowdy, Thanks for the tip! I flipped the back upper ball ends around and I can lift any wheel higher now before the other axles starts to lift. Is that why you like that seup?

Erik, It turns out I was just being a newb! Your FL links will work just fine as is. I played with the rod ends a bit more and was able to get a much better position. I rotated them 180 degrees so the bend was reversed. This solved all the binding issues I was having and looks like it will protect the gear case better too.

Is this what you originally intended with your bend?

Just checking to make sure I am finally getting it right. Seems better to me at least.

I ran into another area where I think I will need some advice. I was trying to install the HH motors, but of course I have never done this part before, and there is not a lot of detail in other threads on how it is done.

I put the the pinion on where it would meet with the gear fully.

I noticed that the mounting holes on the motor are not tapped and they did not come with any machine screws. How do I mount these motors? Are they meant to be tapped or self tapped and what size screw do I need to get?

Thanks for all the advice and support so far! I will keep trucking along.

 

[ROWDY RACING]

You did it backwards from what I suggested, but that may work for you.

 

[TURBOFEST]

Pretty sure those holes should be tapped to 3mm.

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

I ran into another area where I think I will need some advice. I was trying to install the HH motors, but of course I have never done this part before, and there is not a lot of detail in other threads on how it is done.

Those should be tapped! Send an email to ken @ holmeshobbies.com with your shipping info and we can send new plates. Tell him if both are not tapped, or just one.

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

Will do John. I had been trying to reach you guys by phone all last week without any luck.

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

John, What do you think of the finish on these cans. Is it supposed to look like this?

 

[MountainStorm]

I think they would look good brushed and painted with Duplicolor MetalCast Candy Red. Just my 2 cents.

 

[chevotafun]

John, What do you think of the finish on these cans. Is it supposed to look like this?

Mine look the same
they still work great

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

I emailed Ken and he responded right away. They received a batch of motor plates without tapped holes, and also said my cans did not get parkerized correctly.

I will be sending them back tomorrow to get fixed up.

Thanks John and Ken for getting back to me!

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

You did it backwards from what I suggested, but that may work for you.

Doh, I sure did! I will try switching it around again. You said left at the rock and the ditch right?

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

I think they would look good brushed and painted with Duplicolor MetalCast Candy Red. Just my 2 cents.

Candy Red would look good with my color theme. Not sure that painting the cans would be a good idea though. At least not with my messy left handed painting skills.

The paint would probably be on for a few days, but then it would get scratched off pretty quickly!

Maybe you can make me some acrylic motor covers to protect them! "thumbsup"

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

Probably should of waited until the weekend when I will have more time, but I started on the wiring harness tonight after work. Couldn't fight the urge to keep building. :twisted:

I always forget how long wiring takes to do correctly. I can't really rush it with my style of wiring. Everything has to be clean and well protected. Takes a lot of will power not to rush through it.

I usually like a clear work space when building but wiring always ends up with a pile of crap on my desk. Sheathing, heat shrink, wires, solder, tools...

1. BEC is cleanly soldered directly into the ESC battery connector with each lead getting an individual heat shrink, and then one covering all 4 wires and the Dean's connector together.

2. ESC motor control wires are sheathed and held together with zip ties to prevent tugging at the ESC connections.

3. This step is not complete, but the ESC motor wires and the servo control wires need to be shortened and sheathed with the motors getting bullet connectors. This is the step that I still need to complete before the harness will be ready.

I sent my HH motors back for repair, but as soon as I get those back I will power this beast up to get controls setup.

Please let me know if you see any concerns with the wiring setup so far.

 

[TURBOFEST]

Nice wiring job so far.

Grab yourself a package of these life savers for your BEC/Servo connection. Keeps things nice and clean while still being able to easily adjust your BEC with the castle link.

Female to male adapter

"thumbsup"

 

[Erin]

Nice wiring job so far.

Grab yourself a package of these life savers for your BEC/Servo connection. Keeps things nice and clean while still being able to easily adjust your BEC with the castle link.

Female to male adapter

"thumbsup"

good link, been looking for these

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

Nice wiring job so far.

Grab yourself a package of these life savers for your BEC/Servo connection. Keeps things nice and clean while still being able to easily adjust your BEC with the castle link.

Female to male adapter

"thumbsup"

Funny, I just placed an order from them the other day for a crimping tool.

My plan was to plug the BEC directly into the Rx to power the servo. I will be using the Airtronics RX-371W which has an Input Voltage Up to 7.4 Volts for use with "High-Voltage Servos".

When you made that post I doubled checked my Rx specifications and I noted that it is rated for 2S LiPo batteries. Since I will be using 3S LiPo batteries my original plan seems to be a bad idea.

I guess I will have to wire the BEC directly to the Servo to avoid burning up my Rx after all.

Can anyone confirm if my assumption is correct?

 

[josh6575]

Either way will work fine. Running the bec direct to the servo requires using the internal bec of one of the esc to run the rx. The other way plugging the bec into the rx requires removing both red wires from the esc plugs. I have tried it both ways and have not noticed one being any better than another.

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

Either way will work fine. Running the bec direct to the servo requires using the internal bec of one of the esc to run the rx. The other way plugging the bec into the rx requires removing both red wires from the esc plugs. I have tried it both ways and have not noticed one being any better than another.

It sounds like the BEC will prevent the Rx from getting too much juice then. I guess the problem I was concerned about would occur if I plugged a 3S battery directly to the Rx without an ESC or BEC regulating the voltage?

 

[Spiitz Travsky]

Here is a wiring diagram I created for setups that wire the BEC directly to the Rx

Here is a wiring diagram I created for setups that wire the BEC directly to the Servo

Please let me know if I made any mistakes!

 

[Master Basher]

I appreciate all the detail and photos...but man u must have a lot of time on your hands! Lol.

 

[Master Basher]

Btw, I am now part of the b2 revolution.