spy photo

[dr drae]

8)

 

[EeePee]

Without any kind of technical information, we tend to move these posts to Chit Chat.

Got any further information other than a picture of bent steering links?

 

[dr drae]

Homebrew rear steer for my ax10. The kit comes with spare rod ends, but only straight ones, not angled. So I bent a little section of solid aluminum rod to provide diff clearance, drilled/tapped the ends, threaded in some threaded rod, and snugged up the rod ends. And now that I figured out how to program my 3PM for 2ws/4ws/4ws-crab, I think I'm set. "thumbsup"

 

[grapegoat]

Looks hacked. :lol: just kidding

 

[dr drae]

Looks hacked. :lol: just kidding

Might not be the purdiest tie rod, but it's BEEF until the aftermarket catches up. :mrgreen:

 

[dr drae]

surprise drae... I'm following ya!

:shock:

 

[sharpe351]

Might not be the purdiest tie rod, but it's BEEF until the aftermarket catches up. :mrgreen:

And that, sir, is whats for dinner.:lol:

 

[TIMZKRAWLER]

kyosho also makes those angled rod ends...i'm using them on my clod super rear steer with the cvd's and they work good in clearing the diff cases gives you ton's of steering

 

[crawls2thewalls]

my lhs has the oem links in stock..

you guys should check around..

they come in pairs so you get two 33mm and two 106mm..

about 20 bucks..

then just swap a couple bent rod ends off the rear lower link with your spare straight ones and there you have it...(makes no difference to articulation at all)..

then its all oem parts and looks very good..

 

[crawls2thewalls]

like this

"thumbsup"

i couldn't find the other package.. oh well, you get the idea..

 

[dr drae]

More work on the ax10...

So I got my new beadlocks today, went w/skinny inner rings and thick outer rings like my 1:1's. Mounted them up w/narrow red skwishy's up front and narrow pink skwishy's out back. Couple frustrations - they forgot the black mounting bolts. :sad: That and the wide rings aren't countersunk enough to have the bolt heads flush like the skinny rings. This is odd b/c they're both the same thickness. Lastly the ID of the beadlocks are such that I can't use the aluminum wheel hexes, had to go w/the plastic. Not the worst thing in the world as it free'd up 4 set screws so now all 4 of my yokes have 2 set screws each.

Also reworked my battery for a lower COG and got an alloy servo arm...

 

[binaryterror]

Lastly the ID of the beadlocks are such that I can't use the aluminum wheel hexes, had to go w/the plastic. Not the worst thing in the world as it free'd up 4 set screws so now all 4 of my yokes have 2 set screws each.

Yeah I have the same issue with the Aluminum Ericksons I bought. Had to use the plastic hexes and cut off the part that goes through the wheel. I plan to drill out the wheels though, eventually...having too much fun crawling and haven't had a problem with a plastic hex stripping.

 

[dr drae]

Yeah I have the same issue with the Aluminum Ericksons I bought. Had to use the plastic hexes and cut off the part that goes through the wheel. I plan to drill out the wheels though, eventually...having too much fun crawling and haven't had a problem with a plastic hex stripping.

Good to hear I'm not the only one. Yeah, the plastic ones seem to fit just fine (no cutting), I'll see how long they last, if they wear I can always pirate another set from my buddy's ax10... :mrgreen:


I'm nervous about drilling my brand new alloy wheels. Give it a week. :twisted: :lol:

 

[dr drae]

Warning: noob w/a rattle can pics to follow... ;-)
Got my Dodge painted this weekend, went fairly smoothly, well see how it works, I ordered a HPI body I'm going to cut up for a compt body, this was a good first learning experience. I was surprised to see how different the color looked w/the camera flash.

and I forgot the detail pic, but I cut out part of the SUT bed so my H2 mini body sits ~1" lower