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STANG KILLA SS Goes Racin

lol read slower. we REMOVED hp, not gained.:ror: to gain drivability.
although some of it was due to age im sure. the original tune was when the new LME short block and internals were brand new.
my gears also hurt the dyno numbers as well. which ive never understood, i would have thought they would helped. ive heard even just my 12 bolt vs the stock 10 bolt reduces dyno numbers as well.
went from 432 to 403. with 13% driveline loss that puts flywheel hp around 455. less than id hoped, but it still puts a smile on my face.
 
lol read slower. we REMOVED hp, not gained.:ror: to gain drivability.
although some of it was due to age im sure. the original tune was when the new LME short block and internals were brand new.
my gears also hurt the dyno numbers as well. which ive never understood, i would have thought they would helped. ive heard even just my 12 bolt vs the stock 10 bolt reduces dyno numbers as well.
went from 432 to 403. with 13% driveline loss that puts flywheel hp around 455. less than id hoped, but it still puts a smile on my face.

No, I understood. What I felt was impressive was all the changes for driveability from just changing the tune and not the cam.

And yes, you lost power to the wheels with your 4.10s and with the 12 bolt. 1:1 gear transfer is most efficient since the teeth mesh the best. The farther you get from that (larger ring, smaller pinion), the less efficient the gear mesh is and thus the lost of power. And the rotating weight of the 12 bolt is substantial to that of a 10 bolt...especially that dinky little "glass jaw" 10 bolt that came in 4th Gens. So yeah, power loss, but oh so worth it (obviously).
 
stangkilla what suspension setup you running? ive been somewhat distracted by other things in life but with my fbody my intention is keep the motor stock (aside from longtubes) and focus on the suspension to make a fun to drive car.

i havent been on ls1tech or any fbody sites for years to read suspension tech, but when i was up to date it seemed the strano setup was the hot ticket for both autox and street.

couple years ago i had the strawberry milkshake happen and replaced the steering pump with a turnone unit, if you havent done that yet it really changes the steering feel from an old caddy to something a little more racy feeling.

suspension right now is eibach sportline springs, stock front struts (120k on them), and rear summit drag shocks. essentially if you hand picked the parts to to make a fbody handle as terrible as possible that's what im running:oops:

yeah strano/konis are still the setup for a track/street car.

got the half of that setup in. Koni Adjustables!:shock:"thumbsup"
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I know I'll be hooked and talk about expensive hobbies!
yeah I forgot how expensive this 1:1 shit is!:shock:
 
yep a great eye. and while tread is 90% they are also 10 years old and hard as a rock. which is probly why I couldn't breath on the skinny pedal at all without spinning.
yep, ive got a plan maped out for the car and R888s are on it. but learning to drive better is ahead of the cheater tires.
 
new springs are in!

BMR 550lb fronts and 160lb rears.

ironically it will actually raise my car, these are only a 1.25" drop and my current Eibach Sportlines are a 2" drop. but the added roll/pitch support/response will by far overcome the CG change. Eibach rates were 360lb/137lb

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well this weekend I had my first PDS at TWS. 2.9 mile road course. What a blast!"thumbsup"
First day went decent, car did pretty good. but the second day I kept boiling the brake fluid so I had to take it easy on entrys with only about 50% brakeing power available. pedal never would come back even after cooling. on the final set I lost the brakes completely. still a blast though. time to do work. cant wait until the next one!:mrgreen:

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getting light
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that and Motul 600 are the two im looking at. I do like the superblue for my scenario so I can see when ive flushed 100% of the old fluid out.
also looking into ducting.
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you should edit your initial post to have your current setup and update it as you go.

are the bmr's the same as stranos? i only know what i read but from what i gathered the strano setup was good for autocrossing and stuff while not dropping the car all that much. do the bmr's drop lower or are firmer or something?
 
you should edit your initial post to have your current setup and update it as you go.

are the bmr's the same as stranos? i only know what i read but from what i gathered the strano setup was good for autocrossing and stuff while not dropping the car all that much. do the bmr's drop lower or are firmer or something?

I can do that.

yeah the BMRs are a copy of the Stranos. only difference is the Stranos are 150# rears, and the BMRs are 160# rears. nearly Identical. also the BMRs on average are getting just a touch more drop than the stranos. I was already sorta leaning towards the BMRs and then a guy on LS1tech had a set brand new in the box for 200 shipped so I jumped on them. I was in the middle of researching coilovers, but came across the BMRs and decided to go that route for now."thumbsup"
 
Final Day. had already boiled brake fluid twice on earlier sessions. braking power and pedal were down to about 50%, so I just went easy on entries so I could still finish the day. Ignore the early lifting and blown apexes. 4th and final session of the day coming into #10 (1:40 in video) the pedal went all the way to the floor with zero braking. I turned in as hard as I could to try to keep on track and to try to get the rear to kick out to bleed off speed. droped the drivers rear off. still had zero brakes even after cooling.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yvXJXWydUIE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
ooooof close call and a nice save! find some light weight wheels too that will take some stress off of the braking.


$$$$$ thats why i dont auto x too much money too addicting

so i drag race instead :| hahah
 
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