STANG KILLA SS learns to weld.....Thermal Arc 95S

[wings_of_fire]

When working with 50 A to 60 A, keep your argon flow between 7 to 10 liters per minute. Argon regulation is important with the amperage. Argon creates the plasma effect that melts the metal.

When your arc is on, you will see a small melted pool just in front of the tungsten electrode. Try to move that pool with the tip of your electrode. Once you are properly able to move the pool with your electrode, then start with the filler rod. Initially use a thin filler rod of 1.2mm (0.047 ") diameter. Once the pool is formed, tab tab tab with the filler rod in a rhythm. Say 'Tab' verbally, so that you get into the rhythm of using the filler rod.

There will come a time when tig welding becomes a second nature to you. Then the fun begins.

 

[eric113]

Not my best. Just something quick and messing around.

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

did some practicing this weekend.
still a bit inconsistant, i think i just need to sharpen my tunsten more often.
i am getting pretty good at electrocuting myself though:lmao:

i will say im really falling in love with welding. yesterday i ran home after work, threw my bag on the couch and went straight to the garage and threw the hood and gloves on. i couldnt wait.
definatly not the frustrations like with brazing. (ie heat disapation when trying to braze vastly different thickness/metal sizes. ie brake line to a big heavy 1/8" chassis rail)

 

[rc dreemer]

stang....
that looks pretty darn tootin' good to me:ror:. i have a thread started in this section asking the same thing but i thought i might ask you directly... did/do you use anything to "clean up" the welds? if so would you mind sharing what specifically was used??;-)

again that looks really good to me!!"thumbsup"

rc dreemer

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

do you use anything to "clean up" the welds?

just a dremel with a cut off wheel to grind the welds. used a round 3/16" and 1/8" file by hand in a few tight spots.

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

Guys, im looking for some help.

lately ive been having trouble with my arc. instead of a nice little arc, what im getting is more like a propane blow torch. just a big wild 3/8" diameter "fire"
sometimes it even comes out the torch cup and makes a turn to the nearest metal to the side.

im using 3/16 solid, 3/16" chromoly, and 14g plate.
Amps are 45-60, and argon flow is 15-18.

*any ideas on what causes this? its getting quiet frequent.

*what is the gas cup made from? is it solid ceramic? ceramic coated steel? anyone know? i tryed to bevel the end of mine(to get in tigher corners) but it was too hard to grind. i was wondering if it was steel inside, if i just knocked off the coating and now it is conducting electricity and causing problems?

*does a magnetic feild/magnet near the arc matter? say within 1/2" sometimes the problem seems worse when a magnet is near the joint. other times doesnt seem to have any affect or cause the blow torch effect

*what should my shapened tungsten point be like? should it be long and pointy ie taper twice the length of the tungsten diameter? or more like a blunt 45 degree point?

seems like there was another question but i cant remember now. any help fixing this blow torch problem would be great

*could any of my settings cause this?

 

[wings_of_fire]

lately ive been having trouble with my arc. instead of a nice little arc, what im getting is more like a propane blow torch. just a big wild 3/8" diameter "fire"
sometimes it even comes out the torch cup and makes a turn to the nearest metal to the side.

im using 3/16 solid, 3/16" chromoly, and 14g plate.
Amps are 45-60, and argon flow is 15-18.

argon flow seems too much for that Amperage. Reduce it. or

This can also happen if your tank is nearing empty. Does the flow meter ball rise to 15-18 when you start the tig torch?

*what is the gas cup made from? is it solid ceramic? ceramic coated steel? anyone know? i tryed to bevel the end of mine(to get in tigher corners) but it was too hard to grind. i was wondering if it was steel inside, if i just knocked off the coating and now it is conducting electricity and causing problems?

its pure ceramic and only ceramic.

Cups are available in different sizes and so are micro tig torches.

If it was steel inside, the ceramic would have cracked instantly due to the different coefficient of expansion for steel and ceramic.

 

[eric113]

Guys, im looking for some help.

lately ive been having trouble with my arc. instead of a nice little arc, what im getting is more like a propane blow torch. just a big wild 3/8" diameter "fire"
sometimes it even comes out the torch cup and makes a turn to the nearest metal to the side.

im using 3/16 solid, 3/16" chromoly, and 14g plate.
Amps are 45-60, and argon flow is 15-18.

*any ideas on what causes this? its getting quiet frequent.

*what is the gas cup made from? is it solid ceramic? ceramic coated steel? anyone know? i tryed to bevel the end of mine(to get in tigher corners) but it was too hard to grind. i was wondering if it was steel inside, if i just knocked off the coating and now it is conducting electricity and causing problems?

It made from solid ceramic. You can get smaller cups and shorter end caps.

*does a magnetic feild/magnet near the arc matter? say within 1/2" sometimes the problem seems worse when a magnet is near the joint. other times doesnt seem to have any affect or cause the blow torch effect

Yes, Keep the magnets far as way you can.

*what should my shapened tungsten point be like? should it be long and pointy ie taper twice the length of the tungsten diameter? or more like a blunt 45 degree point?

The more sharp the point is.. deeper penetration is. :ror:
Going back to your first question, Sounds like you need to get a welding chipping hammer. Take the tungsten on table edge and use the chipping hammer to break piece off tungsten for a new tip. Can you get pic of the current tungsten out of the torch. Most likely you touch the metal with tungsten which is a no-no.

seems like there was another question but i cant remember now. any help fixing this blow torch problem would be great

*could any of my settings cause this?

Probably not

My reply in red

 

[toybuilder]

Guys, im looking for some help.

lately ive been having trouble with my arc. instead of a nice little arc, what im getting is more like a propane blow torch. just a big wild 3/8" diameter "fire"
sometimes it even comes out the torch cup and makes a turn to the nearest metal to the side.

Sounds to me like you might not be grinding the tungsten properly and or it is contaminated. I had the same trouble with my arc until someone showed me the right way to do it.

Click on this link and scroll about halfway down the page to where the red bar says: Ideal Tungsten Preparation - Stable Arc

Miller - Selection and Preparation Guide for Tungsten Electrodes

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

argon flow seems too much for that Amperage. Reduce it. or
This can also happen if your tank is nearing empty. Does the flow meter ball rise to 15-18 when you start the tig torch?
its pure ceramic and only ceramic.
Cups are available in different sizes and so are micro tig torches.
If it was steel inside, the ceramic would have cracked instantly due to the different coefficient of expansion for steel and ceramic.

ok i will try to reduce argon flow. i assumed there was no "too much" just wasted gas. ill try around 12 or so.
currently using a #4 cup. smallest that came with the kit. i assume the smaller the cup, you must also shorten you tunsten protrusion? to keep it in the gas "field"? ie with a tiny cup, can you still run 1/4"? i found gong to 1/8" worked better with the smaller cup. of course this counter acted the reason for the smaller cup, getting into corners.

good to know the grind attempt on the ceramic isnt the problem. one thing off the list.

looking up those micro torches.

My reply in red

good to know about the magnets, i didnt think it would affect it but now i know.
i have to touch the tungsten to the metal...its a scratch start. but i regrind my tip every 4-5 tacks or so.

Sounds to me like you might not be grinding the tungsten properly and or it is contaminated. I had the same trouble with my arc until someone showed me the right way to do it.

Click on this link and scroll about halfway down the page to where the red bar says: Ideal Tungsten Preparation - Stable Arc

Miller - Selection and Preparation Guide for Tungsten Electrodes

yeah i watch a few vids on the how to properly sharpen before i got the machine. sounds like my twice the diameter was pretty close. i will admit i dont have a dedicated grind wheel for the tungsten though

 

[wings_of_fire]

ok i will try to reduce argon flow. i assumed there was no "too much" just wasted gas. ill try around 12 or so.
currently using a #4 cup. smallest that came with the kit. i assume the smaller the cup, you must also shorten you tunsten protrusion? to keep it in the gas "field"? ie with a tiny cup, can you still run 1/4"? i found gong to 1/8" worked better with the smaller cup. of course this counter acted the reason for the smaller cup, getting into corners.

looking up those micro torches.

Yes adjusting the protrusion is necessary according to the cup size. With higher Amp setting it does not make big difference but yes it is necessary. If not then argon shielding is not achieved properly and the welds start showing oxidation.

With a tiny cup 1/4" protrusion from the cup face will be slightly on the higher side. 1/8" is right.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is a gas saver. It has a perfect laminar flow and hence it will properly shield the welding.
Gas Saver front end accessory kits from CK Worldwide Quality TIG Welding Torches & Accessories

Micro tig torch "thumbsup" Also check the pencil torches.
TIG welding torches from CK Worldwide Quality TIG Welding Torches & Accessories


For argon flow see this..

 

[4.3 Zook]

I agree with the "Gas Lense" suggestion,I have been Tig welding for
14 years and finally bought a set and definitely notice a difference.
And like was mentioned less argon consumption,you can run them at 8 to 12 lbs.
Once you've mastered material that thin,1/8" and thicker will be a breeze.8)

 

[4.3 Zook]

and they can get into really tight spaces...

 

[redcatkrawler]

I do not know how you are sharpening your tungsten. I like to chuck mine up in a drill, hit both ends on a grinder. Usually have a few pre sharpened to get the job done quicker. Using the drill gives a more consistent tip for me.

 

[DadCanyoufix?]

I would defiantly tack things up. Stitch weld on seams. And get some good C clamps and C vise grips to hold things in place. Warping happens when welding. When we would weld in 1 1/2 inch head logs at the ship yard we had clamps all over the Effie place trying to keep thing true. Still have to stitch weld the butt seams and t-joints. Another tip for TGMAW, place small tacks on a joint. Position to true, place another tack on other side. Check again, buy some flapper/ sanding discs for your grinder and use them when prepping a joint, if you touched it with your finger, it could hurt you. I use to TIG and Stick weld pipe, you wanna talk about cursing at warp and pourosity. Keeping it clean is essential.

Wild arcs are usually caused buy a gas related problem, If your cup is ground in a way that it disrupts the flow of gas, that could be a problem, if not then pressures are probably to blame as stated above. I originally read this on my iphone and for some reason page 2 didn't exist on my phone ... Editing now using my laptop, lol.

Your tungsten should look like a pensil tip. Sharp but the very end should be flattened like a cone with no point. 45* is a little much in my opinion, maybe try something closer to 55-60*, sometimes the right shape on a tungsten can make it perform relatively the same for longer. Depending on how heavy your hand is, rolling the cup can damage the end ever so slightly to where you may not notice, but the gas certainly does. check the very edge of your cup and even look for build up of a soot type buildup in the cup from flailing arcs and such.

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

man you guys nailed it.
last night i fired up the torch for the first time since all this. i turned down the argon from 12-15 down to 7.
WOW:shock:

what a difference. perfection. the bead puddles were beautiful smooth chrome looking when i got done. it was obvious from the first arc. every bead was just smooth and shiny enough to brush your teeth in:mrgreen:
unbelievable how easy and great they look now. zero cleanup.

and it all makes sense now. the 12-15 worked great when i was a #5 or 6 cup, but when i went to the #4 the nozzle is tiny. so even though the bottle was still set in range, the small nozzle probly doubled the velosity of the gas coming out. hence the blow torch i was getting.

also let me turn down my amps 5-10 and get even more control, yet alot better penetration too.

so happy now.
i fell like i could paint the mona lisa with my beads:mrgreen:
starting to get grand ideas that i could teach welding at our community college or something now:lmao:

came into work the next day all cocky as shit. told them they now have the previlage of working in the same room as a master welder.:ror:

 

[Szczerba]

Pictures or it didn't happen!

 

[2JSC]

Post up pictures. I'm really wanting to start welding... but I don't think summer is the best time for me in my garage.

 

[STANG KILLA SS]

Pictures or it didn't happen!

crap i dont think i took any before i started paint prep. i still have a bumper bar left. so that will the last two welds. ill try to remember to snap some.

Post up pictures. I'm really wanting to start welding... but I don't think summer is the best time for me in my garage.

try moving to texas! im trying to do as much as i can out there before the 105+ temps start.

 

[2JSC]

It's already touched 100* out here a couple days. I'm thinking a welder is going to be my birthday gift to myself this year in October.