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Tamiya Jeep Wrangler questions

CrawlinMike

RCC Addict
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Messages
1,050
Location
Jacksonville Illinois
I have a losi mrc that i've made into a semi-scaler jeep. Theres not a whole lot of gearing options for my mrc and while it has plenty of torque sometimes in the mud i would like more wheelspeed. How fast does the tamiya go stock with a 6cell battery? Does the esc have a drag brake? Does the esc have instant reverse? Thanks for answers.
This is the link to the specific model i'm looking at
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=84071 .
 
that runs on the same cc-01 chassis as the pajero. assuming the running gear is the same gearing (no reason it wouldnt be) the tamiya one is FAST. Too fast really, lol.

check this out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5r7fke1_Emw

stock esc does not have a drag brake and has a slight delay to reverse. its not a great esc.
 
Jeez that is fast. Do they have decent torque like when getting mud bogged? And are the axles locked and the center locked? Are any of the electronics already waterproofed or will I have to do that myself? Sorry for all the questions but mainly i've only dealt with my MRC, a micro, and a couple of nitro rcs. One of these tamiya jeeps caught my eye and i've heard a lot of good about tamiya.
 
Questions are the only way you learn.

They are pretty fast on the stock motor. If you change to a lathe motor you will still have plenty of wheelspeed for mud but also enough torque to crawl. I run a 35 turn lathe in mine. Nothing is locked. Mine came as a kit and it was pretty simple to lock things up while I was building it. If you get the rtr like in the link you will just have to do a little tear down to get to the stuff to lock it. I locked mine with JB Weld but there are other ways that aren't so permanent. The electronics are not waterproofed so you would have to do that yourself. A lot of people zip tie their stuff inside of balloons. These are fun rigs stock and give you a lot of options for mods if you want to tinker with it. There are a lot of things you can do to a hardbodied rig like this to make it more scale. They are also pretty indestructable and pretty easy to work on. I hope all that helps. Here are a couple pics of mine in the mud.

waterout.jpg

rear.jpg

pajeromud.jpg
 
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mine came with a locker for the rear axle but you can make your own for the front. you will have to waterproof it. they are fast from the start i could rmp mine but id put in a 35t
 
Thanks guys I really appreciate the input and you answering my questions. It looks like a tamiya jeep is going to be on my "to get next" list. Now I just need to get somebody else into rcs because i'm getting tired of going out alone all the time around here. Again thanks alot for taking the time, I know a lot of questions get asked over and over and have told people to use the search myself but this time I couldnt find the info I was lookin for."thumbsup"
 
Questions are the only way you learn.

They are pretty fast on the stock motor. If you change to a lathe motor you will still have plenty of wheelspeed for mud but also enough torque to crawl. I run a 35 turn lathe in mine. Nothing is locked. Mine came as a kit and it was pretty simple to lock things up while I was building it. If you get the rtr like in the link you will just have to do a little tear down to get to the stuff to lock it. I locked mine with JB Weld but there are other ways that aren't so permanent. The electronics are not waterproofed so you would have to do that yourself. A lot of people zip tie their stuff inside of balloons. These are fun rigs stock and give you a lot of options for mods if you want to tinker with it. There are a lot of things you can do to a hardbodied rig like this to make it more scale. They are also pretty indestructable and pretty easy to work on. I hope all that helps. Here are a couple pics of mine in the mud.

waterout.jpg

rear.jpg

pajeromud.jpg
nice pics, looks like you had fun
 
I used a hot glue gun on the front diff to lock it... works pretty good so far..
 
Instead of making a mess with Hot Glue or JBWeld why dont you guys just take out one of the three spider gears from the front diff and place it between the other two? That locks it, isnt messy and is easily reversible.
 
I've jsut used 120,000 wight silicone oil in mine, filled the cases and let it sit. IT will still TURN on flat ground like it doesnt have a solid front, but under throttle, it will still almost completly keep it locked its just SO thick
 
I've jsut used 120,000 wight silicone oil in mine, filled the cases and let it sit. IT will still TURN on flat ground like it doesnt have a solid front, but under throttle, it will still almost completly keep it locked its just SO thick
Till it leaks out and makes one hell of a mess in the tranny and outdrives.

This is THE ONLY way to properly lock the front diff. No mess, parts are all in the kit and easily reversible.
SANY0325.jpg

SANY0326.jpg
 
if you do lock the front be careful if you are on a high traction surface. I sheared off both of my front dogbones with my front and rear locked. Put in some MIP CVD's and unlocked the front and all has been well so far.
 
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