slobin3d
I'm a stupid C U N T!
I have a lockright in the front of my Cherokee, I'm suspect that it might not be functioning correctly, is there a way I can test it without having to cracking open the case and visually inspect it?
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Testing a locker without tearing the diff apart?
- Thread starter slobin3d
- Start date
JeremyH
I wanna be Dave
Lift the tires off the ground, and rotate the tire by hand. If your locker is working properly, then the other tire should spin the same direction. If it is not and is functioning as an open diff, it should rotate the opposite direction. Also, you should hear some clicking out of the locker....
CPE MT
RCC Addict
On the monsters, we test the locker by jacking the tires off the ground and trying to rotate one wheel. You can feel the locker catch, and just repeat with the other axle half.
Crawford
Quarry Creeper
if you don't have a jack or if your lazy Flip it in 4wd, try to perform a tight U-turn while on the gas, if the front tires chirp, it's working.... Personally I just jack it up and spin the tires....
Or, you could do what aussie locker suggests before you finish installing.
TESTING THE LOCKER ASSEMBLY
This section assumes that your new Aussie Locker has been installed and that the complete differential
assembly is now in the vehicle with the tires installed.
1. Put the transmission in gear and the transfer case in 4WD to lock the drive shaft. Tires must be installed
to complete this test.
2. Rotate one of the tires until it stops against the locked drive shaft. Hold it in position and maintain
moderate pressure.
3. Rotate the other tire in the opposite direction. It should unlock and spin, with the locker clicking as the
tire rotates. Note that this sound will be less with the cover on and gear oil inside.
4. Rotate the first tire in the opposite direction until it stops, and again maintain pressure.
5. Rotate the second tire in the opposite direction from the first time. It should again unlock and spin with
the clicking sound.
6. Switch tires. Rotate and hold the second tire, and spin the first one in the opposite direction. Again switch
directions. Both tires should rotate in both directions and the locker should click as they are doing so.
7. If your installation passes this “spin” test, you are ready to finish up.
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slobin3d
I'm a stupid C U N T!
I know it was working before and during my last trail run, but while I was on a long flat turn in dirt I heard what seemed like the locker disengaging but was louder then normal, and the steering became easier then I was used to in 4wLow. But when I finished the trail the people in front and behind told me that both fronts were still digging. The locker is new, this is only its third use and the first two were in snow. Maybe it's breaking in and becoming smoother? or maybe Something is Effed, or maybe I'm crazy. It's a lockrite in a d-30 on 33's in a cherokee
Me thinks it may be good to spend the 10 minutes yanking the diff cover. May not hurt anything but D30's are not the strongest axles. Maybe it chucked a tooth on the locker and it was sitting in the groves not alowing it to lock correctly. Doubt the springs in it would go this quickly. Cheap for just some gear oil and rtv to check it out. to see if there is any thing that decided it didnt want to be part of the differential anymore floating around, peace of mind type of thing. The others have covered the quick check but if it were me I would want to looksie inside to be sure being that it is a quick and easy job.
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
You're likely fine. In my experience, when you break a lunchbox locker, it locks up, not becomes open. My Bronco would shred the locker everytime a locking hub broke, but that's another story. The Lock Right in the D30 in front of my Jeep has worked great for 4 years now and quite a bit of abuse and street use, so as long as it was installed correctly, I bet you're fine.
But unlike a regular limited slip, you have to test it differently. You can use the method Crawford posted or jack one front tire off the ground, put the t-case in neutral, and rotate the driveshaft. It should lock up and not rotate. If the shaft and/or the lifted tire rotates, it's junk.
Fortunately, Lock Rights and other lunchbox locker are easy to rebuild. :mrgreen:
But unlike a regular limited slip, you have to test it differently. You can use the method Crawford posted or jack one front tire off the ground, put the t-case in neutral, and rotate the driveshaft. It should lock up and not rotate. If the shaft and/or the lifted tire rotates, it's junk.
Fortunately, Lock Rights and other lunchbox locker are easy to rebuild. :mrgreen:
Tommy R
I wanna be Dave
Ooh, but another thing. Do you have a vacuum actuated passenger side axle shaft or is it one piece? It's possible something else let go besides the locker.
Good point. I forgot some D30's had those. Simple solution of it does is get a 1 piece axle shaft and take off the vacuum stuff and plate it over. if I had one of those setups on my rig I would put in the 1 piece shaft whether the vacuum thing was working or not.
slobin3d
I'm a stupid C U N T!
It's a 1 piece axle no disconnect here"thumbsup"
Did a quick test in the field next to the house and it took a second but it engaged.
I might tear it down in the next few and give it a once over to make sure nothings wrong, it just seems to be sluggish to engage or disengage.
Did a quick test in the field next to the house and it took a second but it engaged.
I might tear it down in the next few and give it a once over to make sure nothings wrong, it just seems to be sluggish to engage or disengage.
