thermal arc 95s welder

[Jwelder24]

This welder seems like a good hobby welder. I wouldn't use it for doing anything structural. I would use 6010 or 6011 they are a deeper penetrating rod. You shouldn't be trying to use 5/32" the max size on this machine is 3/32". Your flow rate on your reg should be measured in ccf not psi 25-35 ccf is alot less than 10 psi. You should set your regulator for what you want then turn your manual valve all the way on.

 

[RcBro]

Anyone else running this welder? Curious how you all are liking it. Looks like a great cheap way to get a tig.

 

[motoxkfx]

Yes, it would be perfectly fine for .250" brake line.

i have a miller daystar 150 stl i got on a trade i cant seem to be able to weld break line with out burn through. i know it will what should i try.

 

[@tw!ll]

Anyone else running this welder? Curious how you all are liking it. Looks like a great cheap way to get a tig.

Hey William, I got one a few weeks ago. Kind of an early Christmas present. I've done mig for many years, but tig is all new to me. Especially the lift start. I'm awesome at attaching my tungsten to my work piece, but still trying to get the actually welding down. So far I like it though. I've played a little with 1/8" solid cf1018 steel, and some 1/8" 304 stainless rod also. Definitely takes some getting used to, but it does work well. Made my wife a heart pendant from stainless for Christmas. Overall very nice little machine so far.

Dave

 

[spyderwebbcustoms]

i have a miller daystar 150 stl i got on a trade i cant seem to be able to weld break line with out burn through. i know it will what should i try.

Tungsten Electrode 2% Thoriated .040 - .187 x 7"
this is the tugsten that I'm using on the 95s gas is set at 15psi on the regulator, and the nob on handle is about half way open, been working great for welding 1/16th filler rod. It should work fine for breakline. on the welder is showing the nob is set at 15 amps

the stuff I have set up on my 95s is
Tungsten Electrode 2% Thoriated .040 - .187 x 7"

cup is a 4,
works better when using less argon than using bigger cups
1/16th filler rod. when working with tight joints. bigger filler rod when the joints are not.


hope this helps

 

[@tw!ll]

Here's the pendant I made for my wife for Christmas. It's solid 1/8" 304 stainless rod, with a cut 5mm nut welded on to mount it.

Here's what i was playing with today. Some 1/2" square box cf1018. I split it, then bent the sides back together. Obviously i need to learn to control my arm movement to make it more uniform. Also I was holding the tungsten too close for the first part. But i was quite happy with this. No major mig goobers to have to grind off.

 

[spyderwebbcustoms]

Here's the pendant I made for my wife for Christmas. It's solid 1/8" 304 stainless rod, with a cut 5mm nut welded on to mount it.

Here's what i was playing with today. Some 1/2" square box cf1018. I split it, then bent the sides back together. Obviously i need to learn to control my arm movement to make it more uniform. Also I was holding the tungsten too close for the first part. But i was quite happy with this. No major mig goobers to have to grind off.

looks real good, you look like your getting it down just fine, wait another couple weeks you'll be one of the best tig masters, keep it going looks fine for just picking it up and going with it.

you happy with the welder so far

 

[@tw!ll]

Loving it so far. I would happily recommend this to anyone who wants to start tig. Someday I'll get a 250 amp water cooled one with a pedal, but I'll love playing with this one in the meantime.

 

[spyderwebbcustoms]

this a good little welder for the $400 mark for sure. I've had a 195 miller with the foot feed and loved it, but you are also looking at a 2k welder. the down side withe the 95s is the scratch start. The only thing I can see that could be upgraded, but the hole deal is the price. can't go wrong with buying it at all. would buy another if I had too. I'm vary pleased with it

 

[RcBro]

Hows the scratch start for simply stiching two pieces together so far atwill? You'll be using urs alot more then mine, but trying to deicide of I want this, or just pick up a lincoln 140.

 

[@tw!ll]

As long as one of the pieces is solidly clamped to the table, not too bad at all. It does take a little getting used to. It's all in the wrist lol. I have a Hobart 135, and it's how I did everything before. The pain of course is trying to toe the line between burning through, and leaving a blob to grind off. This eliminates both basically. You can still burn through if you're not careful, but it's easier to control that. Even at the edges of the work piece.

 

[RcBro]

Awesome, thank you for the info!

 

[spyderwebbcustoms]

As long as one of the pieces is solidly clamped to the table, not too bad at all. It does take a little getting used to. It's all in the wrist lol. I have a Hobart 135, and it's how I did everything before. The pain of course is trying to toe the line between burning through, and leaving a blob to grind off. This eliminates both basically. You can still burn through if you're not careful, but it's easier to control that. Even at the edges of the work piece.

what I'v been doing is start on the steel table top then drag to work peace, after the chasse is alittle more compete then i can start the arc on the work instead of the table. been working the best for me, just another opption for ya, hope it helps out

 

[@tw!ll]

Well I'd say I'm starting to get the hang of this thing. Or at least starting to understand it's idiosyncrasies. The thing I've noticed probably more than anything else is, you must have a steady hand. It's a good idea to actually rest it on your welding table as you move. Reason is because space between the arc and the work surface will affect the amperage it puts out. So if you need a little more oomph, just pull slightly away. But keep in mind when you do it broadens the arc as well. making it affect more surface area. Here's a few scraps I was practicing with.

The funny thing is, I haven't been able to get adding material using filler rod. Anytime I try to use the filler rod, the blob won't join with the molten work surface. It just sits between and if I put the arc to it more, it starts to erupt. If I move the arc around the area long enough to get the blob to actually join with the work surface, the whole area becomes very brittle, and tends to have air bubbles in it. So I guess I'll just have to keep practicing with that. Overall, still liking this little welder very much.

 

[HITMAN]

I might pick one up myself.

Seems like a pretty good deal.

http://store.cyberweld.com/tharcstwe95s.html

 

[spyderwebbcustoms]

good deal. I got mine for $387 shipped, I thought I was getting a deal. nice now I wish that I waited a bit to get mine. I don't think that you'll go wrong with this set up.

 

[rockpayne]

I have been following this thread intently and have looked into this welding machine and I have decided to make the purchase. :twisted: Being that I am used to using the high frequency foot control, and strike start this will not be a problem for me to transition to, I will offer some advice: instead of touching your tungsten to your work, hold it at the same distance you would to weld and quickly rake your filler rod tip by it while the filler rod touches your work. This will save your tungsten tip and will also keep your work cleaner (not contaminated by tungsten). As for not being able to get the filler rod to join in to your work, lower your gas from 15 to maybe 12 or 10 and bump your heat up just an amp or two. If that doesn't work your tungsten might be to close to the opening of the cup, try bringing it out of the cup just a little more, tig welding isn't hard to do but you do have to find that sweet spot for the application "thumbsup""thumbsup"Hope this helps DH and thanks for such an informative thread Spyder, Weld On "thumbsup" "thumbsup" "thumbsup" "thumbsup"

 

[@tw!ll]

I have been following this thread intently and have looked into this welding machine and I have decided to make the purchase. :twisted: Being that I am used to using the high frequency foot control, and strike start this will not be a problem for me to transition to, I will offer some advice: instead of touching your tungsten to your work, hold it at the same distance you would to weld and quickly rake your filler rod tip by it while the filler rod touches your work. This will save your tungsten tip and will also keep your work cleaner (not contaminated by tungsten). As for not being able to get the filler rod to join in to your work, lower your gas from 15 to maybe 12 or 10 and bump your heat up just an amp or two. If that doesn't work your tungsten might be to close to the opening of the cup, try bringing it out of the cup just a little more, tig welding isn't hard to do but you do have to find that sweet spot for the application "thumbsup""thumbsup"Hope this helps DH and thanks for such an informative thread Spyder, Weld On "thumbsup" "thumbsup" "thumbsup" "thumbsup"

Thanks for the advice, I'll give all those a try and see how I do"thumbsup"

 

[honcho1.9]

so does the 95s include the tig torch lead or do you have to buy it seperatley, im thinkin about getting one but need to know what all i need to buy at once

 

[spyderwebbcustoms]

they come in two kits. stick verstion for like $200. or the tig/stick combo for alittle under $400. it will include two size of tugstins with the welder. (but would pick more up though) will be ready to weld with. the argon bottle is up to you to buy. different prices on those. will be able to by locally at you closes welding store