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Thinking about buying a k5 vaterra ascender got some questions

Spence

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
147
Location
New England
Hi all, I am thinking about buying a vaterra k5 ascender KIT. hopefully when I get the chance. I had some questions about drivetrain durability. I know the plastic shafts are an area of concern(MIPS are aval for this truck), but how strong are the powdered metal diff ring and pinion gears? Has anybody here broken a set of diff gears? Like anybody that runs super strong motors here?


Thanks
-Spence
 
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One of the selling points of the Ascender for me and many others was the out of the box driveline components. Part of the reason I personally feel there are little/no aftermarket options is Ascender drivers don't really have a need for them.

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If you stay with a brushed motor and don't go crazy the stock components are very tough. When you go brushless and start doing crazy stuff then things will break. The quality of the ascender kits and RTR trucks is very nice especially for $249... I built the scx10ii kit and was a little surprised where they skipped on quality. If on a budget the rc4wd 35t motor for $10 is pretty decent. I'm running a $45 horizon WP60 esc that is holding up fine as well. There are decent servos for $35 that get the job done. I crawl with some pretty serious rigs in a group and I rarely feel left out or left behind. It all depends on what you want out of the truck. If you go crazy then things break. If you keep it reasonable you gain dependability.
 
If you stay with a brushed motor and don't go crazy the stock components are very tough. When you go brushless and start doing crazy stuff then things will break. The quality of the ascender kits and RTR trucks is very nice especially for $249... I built the scx10ii kit and was a little surprised where they skipped on quality. If on a budget the rc4wd 35t motor for $10 is pretty decent. I'm running a $45 horizon WP60 esc that is holding up fine as well. There are decent servos for $35 that get the job done. I crawl with some pretty serious rigs in a group and I rarely feel left out or left behind. It all depends on what you want out of the truck. If you go crazy then things break. If you keep it reasonable you gain dependability.

Like a yeah racing 55t motor on a 3cell lipo? Would that be too much? I know I will get laughed at, but I love my yeah racing hackmoto motors :D, and my fav esc (yes I need a castle bec tho) is the hobbywing 1080 crawler esc its 3s capable and brushed waterproof for $40 or so and comes with an excellent little program card that has more features than you can shake a stick at!
 
I'm running the Hobbywing 1080 ESC and a Holmes 550 21t Trailmaster Sport on 3S, not having ANY issues with stock gears and shafts!

And it's loads heavier than originally, as I've added SSD Brass knuckles and rear axle lockouts, plus a heavy-gauge steel transverse full-size LiPo battery tray.

I really think if the drivetrain has any weak spots they'd have showed up by now, I have crashed the hell out of my K10 without any of the tumbles tweaking so much as a link or axle shaft...
 
I’ve got a 14 pole HolmesHobbies sensored Revolver in one of my ascenders. I used to break the pinion gears before the HD versions were released, but I too have change almost every part that came stock in the drivetrain, save for the ring gears in th axles, and gears in the transmission.
 
All I've had happen after three years and a lot of miles is a broken driveshaft cup pin. Not a big deal except that you can't buy just the pin (although I've found some suitable ones since), and the design of the driveshaft attachment made it a day ender instead of a trail repair as it requires disassembly of the diff. I think Vanquish makes adapters to change to a more standard Axial-type driveshaft attachment, I just didn't see the cost justification. Gears still looked new though.

Aluminum links too tend to be very soft and bend easily...replaced them almost immediately.
 
All I've had happen after three years and a lot of miles is a broken driveshaft cup pin. Not a big deal except that you can't buy just the pin (although I've found some suitable ones since), and the design of the driveshaft attachment made it a day ender instead of a trail repair as it requires disassembly of the diff. I think Vanquish makes adapters to change to a more standard Axial-type driveshaft attachment, I just didn't see the cost justification. Gears still looked new though.

Aluminum links too tend to be very soft and bend easily...replaced them almost immediately.

Does the MIP driveshaft upgrade kit fix this issue 100%? I know I may even make my own links or buy aftermarket lol thanks
 
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Hi all, I am thinking about buying a vaterra k5 ascender KIT. hopefully when I get the chance. I had some questions about drivetrain durability. I know the plastic shafts are an area of concern(MIPS are aval for this truck), but how strong are the powdered metal diff ring and pinion gears? Has anybody here broken a set of diff gears? Like anybody that runs super strong motors here?


Thanks
-Spence
I broke a set of gears and an axle on my first ascender but since both parts have been upgraded. I can pretty confidently let my son or daughter drive without really worrying. They are durable and when it comes to fit and finish I would rather have an ascender than a truck that has wobbly trans shafts, etc. Not that axial is bad but I'm paying for a hobby grade rc and slop in the trans is unacceptable to me. The Ascender is imo the best quality of all the brands. Also the chassis and link set up allows easy adjustment of the chassis and links.


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I have 2 of these. One bronco, one k5. K5 is stock and my 4 year old son has been running it for over a year with the only issue a stripped servo horn.

My bronco has a 65t motor with everything else factory. I’ve run hard on rocks 2-3 times a week for 14 months now with no failures in the drivetrain. Steering servos was junk almost immediately but replaced it with a good bearing servo with 3 times the in tq and no issues since.

These I think are really the best crawlers out of the box.
 
I broke a set of gears and an axle on my first ascender but since both parts have been upgraded.


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I know there aren't any gear upgrades, but are you talking about just previous gear versions, and there were design changes and revisions to strength on the next version from the manufacturer?
 
I know there aren't any gear upgrades, but are you talking about just previous gear versions, and there were design changes and revisions to strength on the next version from the manufacturer?
Yes they made HD versions at first then they upgraded the trucks with the HD shafts and gears. The font axles were also revised.

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Hi all, I am thinking about buying a vaterra k5 ascender KIT. hopefully when I get the chance. I had some questions about drivetrain durability. I know the plastic shafts are an area of concern(MIPS are aval for this truck), but how strong are the powdered metal diff ring and pinion gears? Has anybody here broken a set of diff gears? Like anybody that runs super strong motors here?


Thanks
-Spence

Do eet, my original RTR Blazer has been going for about 3 years and nothing much broken (no driveline), Junfac makes nice scale sized steel driveshafts if you want steel.

You just have to measure before buying, iirc these will work.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/jun90028.htm

Junfac site with driveshafts listed.
Universal Shaft - JunFac

One of the selling points of the Ascender for me and many others was the out of the box driveline components. Part of the reason I personally feel there are little/no aftermarket options is Ascender drivers don't really have a need for them.

X2 :)

I'm running the Hobbywing 1080 ESC and a Holmes 550 21t Trailmaster Sport on 3S, not having ANY issues with stock gears and shafts!

I really think if the drivetrain has any weak spots they'd have showed up by now, I have crashed the hell out of my K10 without any of the tumbles tweaking so much as a link or axle shaft...

Same setup and agreed! "thumbsup"
 
Thanks for all your help guys, doing some digging, I think I found on rccrawler how to convert to 32P gearing for the spur :)
 
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