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TLT CVD Assembly Instructions

Rockpiledriver

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
5,027
Location
SoCal
Since we wanted to get the first CVD's out ASAP to people needing them for comps, we did not get any pics taken for the instruction sheet in time to put them in with the axles.

Below is a simple instruction sheet for those that are not familiar with CVD assembly.

One thing was left out. Be sure to add a drop of locktight to the screws that hold the wheels on. Normal driving will cause them to loosen.




cvdinstructionsny8.jpg
 
What color loctite do you recommend? I've been hesitant on using loctite on the tiny screws cause I can just imagine me screwing them up :roll:
 
i havnt used loctite on any of the cvd's ive put together. 2 pairs of TTR's and several pairs of tamiya's. but i guess a little dab will do ya and wouldnt hurt. thanks guys! now im going to have to go and do it to all of mine! :lol:
 
I use blue. The key is to put it on the threads and then run your finger over the threads so that it is only in the grooves. That gives you just enough to hold the grub. In this application, Less is More.
 
lock tite

don't use red that is more for a permenant situation,and you can break things trying to get them apart"thumbsup"
 
I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of) . also another problem, I had to drill out my wheels so the axles would pass thru . I have TRAXXAS nitro rustler rear wheels (nothing a drill wouldn't fix) and last there where no e-clips in my bag . fast PM to RCP and I was told they would seen my some out . but I ask if the stock TLT clips where the same . they said yes that they are the same . I beat on them for abit and I mean beat on them . I am known for breakin' axles . I must say these things RoCk$ ! "thumbsup"
 
Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in *some* wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT.

We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that. "thumbsup"
 
Yup, we made the shaft as large as possible for strength. Drilling out the center hole in *some* wheels may be necessary. The e-clips are indeed the same as stock TLT.

We are having the fatrock C's made now. I asked about opening up that hole, but since they said it might be an issue because of the relationship of the hole to the bend, we held off for this batch because we wanted to get the C's made asap for people needing them. The first lot will still need to be opened up, the next lot we hope to fix that. "thumbsup"
it was more cleaning up the hole than making it bigger . the CVD bell is so close to fitting thru the FAT-ROCK Cs . I think if I had just pushed it , it would have fit .
 
With my RC4WD beadlocks, I had to use the spacer form the skinny hex on the outside, while using the wide hex. The surface is a bit thinner on the rc4wd beadlocks. Maybe you could add a 2mm spacer as well?
 
I must say that I really like these CVDs . the only problems I had installin' them was that they wouldn't past thru the FAT-ROCK axle Cs (nothing a dremel wouldn't take care of)

How odd, mine fit through with no problem at all.
 
Wow... that is strange. All of the initial testers said theirs did not fit through the hole in the C's. That was with the first version that had a smaller bell.

Odd.
 
my axle c's are not new. they are from last year and fit right over the cvd's a little tight but i was able to push them on with my hands
 
I had to open up all my Fat-Rock C's to fit the CVD's. Prototypes and production versions. Very easy to do!"thumbsup"
 
Besides the instructions, these should also come with the normally supplied MIP Thread Lock and Lubicant. Not that everyone needs it, but it comes in handy and has come to be expected from a class act like MIP. Some wheels may have an issue with the thin hexes and spacers. The mounting flange is too thin on some wheels. Making the thin hexes just a bit thicker would help. I corrected the trouble I was having with my wheels.
 
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We can include the lube and lock but the price is going to go up.

The small hexes are designed to give the same width as stock. When we asked what people wanted before even designing these, that was a feature that was very sought after. We can't change something to fit one brand of wheel when they work perfectly with 99% of all others.
 
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