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Tommy R's TTC Build - "Big Oly"

Duuuuuuuude said:
Looks like the right side tube is bent and is pushing the body over to the left.

It also appears that I inadvertently built the same toolbox you did. :oops:
Click to expand...

Good eye! That's exactly what happened. I tweaked the passenger side fender and bent it back last night and all is well again. I just need to get around to finishing all the tube work and adding some triangulation.

The box idea is all yours since it looks like I won't be using mine now.

I guess great minds think alike. "thumbsup"
Click to expand...

And so do ours!! :ror:
 
eric113 said:
What are you going to do with the box ? If you want sell it let me know.
Click to expand...

Eric, I'll definitely put it up for sale and you can have first dibs. I also have another I built that would need a hinge, but is just a little bit nicer. Let me get my new batteries in before I sell them, though. Cool? :)
 
I'm trying to determine the best way to get fender liners in the truck. The front will be pretty easy and may just end up being some plastic or styrene panels painted in black undercoating. The rear is a bit more challenging because it'll dictate a whole bed. It'll be tough because of the goofy diagonal braces supporting the rear corners of the tube work. I think the best thing for me to do is lengthen the main frame rails to the back of the body and get rid of those diagonal braces.

Does anyone have some straight sections of SCX10 frame rails? I need a 2" long section. I have one piece left over from when I shortened my other SCX10 for my Jeep build, but I can't find the other. If you can help a brutha out, please let me know. I'm willing to pay! :)

Here you can see what I'm trying to do. I want to extend the frame rails to the rear bumper area.
1023620640_G3mAb-XL.jpg
 
Oh yeah, something else I'm considering... I don't really think the cab portion of the Bronco looks very scale. Something with it just doesn't sit well with me. What would y'all think if I cut off the top altogether and installed an aluminum roof panel to the cage instead? It'd be similar to what Guido has. Sorry, Chris! :ror: It wouldn't be shaped like a wing like the original. It would just be a normal sheetmetal roof....and it would dent whenever I roll over. "thumbsup"

Ultimately, I may paint up a new body and trim the windshield low like the original.

830260032_cTnJh-S.jpg
 
Duuuuuuuude said:
Nice! I'm thinking I should have held out a little longer and gone with those...
Click to expand...

team3six said:
that actually looks much better.
Click to expand...

War Pig said:
Those are the perfect size for that truck.....look nice on those wheels too.
Click to expand...

Thanks, y'all. :)

Duuuuuuuude said:
They look shorter than the Lox...must be the busy sidewalls.
Click to expand...

Well, just a bit. They seem to squat a bit more despite the huge foams. Here's a side by side shot next to a Rok Lox. They are on the same wheels. TSL on stock foam and the Rok Lox on Panther foam. The TSL's are ever so slightly shorter in this configuration.

1038055294_vyVVT-L.jpg
 
Those look a lot wider when placed next to Rock Lox. They look kinda narrow otherwise.

I'm late to the party here, but those tires do look better.
 
Yeah, they're definitely wider than the Rok Lox. Not by a ton, but noticeable. The TSL's are nearly the same height, but seem to squish down more so they appear shorter when on the truck. I've got TSL's on one side right now and Rok Lox on the other. I should take a pic from the front to show the difference...
 
NICE! bet your loving the new tires. they dont look as balloony as i thought they would.
id leave the cab for now. when you do cab interior then id hack the roof/windsheild off at the same time.
any plans to brace the front tube fenders?
what did you use for paint removal?
these should work on those wheels on top of the nuts, there internally threaded aluminum. just thread them on the stub sticking out of the nut until they hit the wheel
http://store.rc4wd.com/Scale-IFS-Manual-Locking-Hubs_p_387.html
 
STANG KILLA SS said:
NICE! bet your loving the new tires. they dont look as balloony as i thought they would.
id leave the cab for now. when you do cab interior then id hack the roof/windsheild off at the same time.
any plans to brace the front tube fenders?
what did you use for paint removal?
these should work on those wheels on top of the nuts, there internally threaded aluminum. just thread them on the stub sticking out of the nut until they hit the wheel
http://store.rc4wd.com/Scale-IFS-Manual-Locking-Hubs_p_387.html
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm really diggin' the new shoes. I think they fit the truck a lot better with the extra width and less height.

I plan on tearing the whole truck down really soon, finishing the tube work, relocating some things, stretching the frame rails in the rear, mounting my side saddle batteries, etc. I'll be doing the interior and roof cutting at this time, too. The truck will likely not run again 'til all this is done. Finding the time to do it is another story. Oh, and yes, I'll definitely be triangulating the front tube fenders, in addition to many other areas. I've still got a lot of metal work ahead of me. For the interior, I think I'm going to try to do most of it with styrene, except the dash will be aluminum.

Regarding the paint removal, are you talking about the paint on the brake lines? I use an angle die grinder with sanding discs. Super quick and easy.

I saw those RC4WD hubs, but I'm not sure if they're a small enough diameter to fit inside the CAC wheels. They're not that expensive so maybe I can just get them and try them out... 8)
 
ahh ok. looking forward to the make over.
yeah the jeeps interior i built from .060 styrene dash included, but i think the aluminum dash would fit your truck better. plans for gauges? that RPP kit is nice.
the rc4wd hubs are very small (and nice) i have a brand new set if you want to see if they will fit. if i remember ill get you a diameter this weekend(text to remind me)
 
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