TRX4 lowered

[MOguy]

I am thinking about going bigger tire, re gear and low center of gravity. I tried searching but the search won't work on my phone.

Anybody gone this route? any suggestions? I have to issues cutting things to make things work.

 

[crunky]

It may or may not have been done before...

 

[MOguy]

It may or may not have been done before...

Hoping for a little more up travel.

 

[89lxmorepower]

Which platform trx4 do you have? If you bigger tires and lower it u run into rubbing issues. I went with smaller tires on my trx4 and lowered it down by taken spring tension off and allowing a natural sag. Stock gearing in trx4 is already super low.

 

[MOguy]

Which platform trx4 do you have? If you bigger tires and lower it u run into rubbing issues. I went with smaller tires on my trx4 and lowered it down by taken spring tension off and allowing a natural sag. Stock gearing in trx4 is already super low.

I have the Mercedes version with the lockers and dual speed transmission. I've changed the body, wheels (1.9s) and tires. I still want to be able to compete and that 1.9 inch rims, extra large tire.
The steering servo is next. I know a lot of people just throw a bunch of brass on the axles and call it good. I'll end up doing that also but I'd like to take it a little bit further but I still want it to be considered a scaler when it comes to competition. I don't mind cutting and trimming away fender wells or body or getting different shock mounts. I would like to keep us some sort of inner fender because I do like to trail it and I do end up in some dirt and water.

 

[Inspector86]

When you say "extra large tires" what exactly are you thinking? I assume you are aware that comps limit the maximum tire size in each class. I run a class II 4.75" tire with a lowered suspension and the truck works exceptionally well.

 

[HumboldtEF]

I tried searching but the search won't work on my phone.

the Google custom search has been broken for a long time but just above it is the other search, this one still works.

EDIT: sorry never mind mobile does not have the other search feature.

 

[MOguy]

When you say "extra large tires" what exactly are you thinking? I assume you are aware that comps limit the maximum tire size in each class. I run a class II 4.75" tire with a lowered suspension and the truck works exceptionally well.

Probably somewhere around your size. How did you lower it? This is what mine looks like now.
https://ibb.co/wWYpcpm

 

[Inspector86]

To start with I slicked up the stock GTS shocks with green slime on the X-rings and left the retainer cap about 1/4 turn loose. I then installed a set of optional Traxxas .30 rate springs. This allows you to dial in some droop in the suspension. I typically shoot for getting the shocks close to mid stroke at static ride height.

 

[MOguy]

To start with I slicked up the stock GTS shocks with green slime on the X-rings and left the retainer cap about 1/4 turn loose. I then installed a set of optional Traxxas .30 rate springs. This allows you to dial in some droop in the suspension. I typically shoot for getting the shocks close to mid stroke at static ride height.

Thanks for the reply.

I do have more questions.
Your shocks don't leak? What weight oil for the shocks? What is the stock spring rate and don't get rubbing with that much up travel using that body?

 

[R/C controls YOU]

Thanks for the reply.

I do have more questions.
Your shocks don't leak? What weight oil for the shocks? What is the stock spring rate and don't get rubbing with that much up travel using that body?

A better way is to use the white spacer in Traxxas 2362 rebuild kit to replace the black spacer in the bottom of the shocks. It’s super easy & 2 kits runs $5. This allows you to fully tighten the lower retainer and have perfect shaft movement.

You won’t be happy with anything heavier than 15wt shock oil. Factory Team 150cst is perfect.

Stock springs are .45/.54 on yours (I think). The point is: the stock setup is just too stiff.

 

[mass-hole]

I run aftermarket shock mounts that let you run 0, +5, or +10 mm on the upper shock mount. This will drop the truck accordingly, however, the front axle and linkages will start hitting stuff if you go this route and dont run a longer shock as well(IE longer shock body will keep the same bottom-out point). You could run 100mm shocks at the +5 and 110's at the +10 and still have the same bottom out point.

My goal was to try and run 110mm shocks(vs the stock 90's) but retain the factory ride height. I got there and the truck had an insane amount of flex, which was mostly down, as the up stopped at the same point as stock. Later I went back and put the stock shocks back on but at the +5 setting and I was hitting things on the front suspension and it was limiting uptravel.

The rear is less of an issue unless you run a low COG battery tray like the Bowhouse. In that case I was fine on the side to side flex/travel, but the straight up-n-down travel would cause the links to hit the tray.

 

[MOguy]

I run aftermarket shock mounts that let you run 0, +5, or +10 mm on the upper shock mount. This will drop the truck accordingly, however, the front axle and linkages will start hitting stuff if you go this route and dont run a longer shock as well(IE longer shock body will keep the same bottom-out point). You could run 100mm shocks at the +5 and 110's at the +10 and still have the same bottom out point.

My goal was to try and run 110mm shocks(vs the stock 90's) but retain the factory ride height. I got there and the truck had an insane amount of flex, which was mostly down, as the up stopped at the same point as stock. Later I went back and put the stock shocks back on but at the +5 setting and I was hitting things on the front suspension and it was limiting uptravel.

The rear is less of an issue unless you run a low COG battery tray like the Bowhouse. In that case I was fine on the side to side flex/travel, but the straight up-n-down travel would cause the links to hit the tray.

Thanks

 

[RCTom]

To start with I slicked up the stock GTS shocks with green slime on the X-rings and left the retainer cap about 1/4 turn loose. I then installed a set of optional Traxxas .30 rate springs. This allows you to dial in some droop in the suspension. I typically shoot for getting the shocks close to mid stroke at static ride height.

Hi Inspector. In your response above, you said in your tips about the shocks "to start with...". Just curious, what other shock tricks did you perform?

I also want to tune my TRX for a droop setup because I find my rig is top heavy with the body on (Pro-Line 1966 F100 and their back half cage kit). Recently, I removed the body and ran the same course and made every obstacle at the crawler course. With the body on it makes about 75%. I was really surprised how much better it did without the body.

Later the same day, someone lent me a set of custom length shocks that fully compressed at static ride height and extended fully when dropping into holes. It also lowered my rig a little over an inch. The truck (with body) performed noticeably better except for maybe side hilling—it may have driven a little worse here (too close to tell).

I am tying to duplicate a similar setup with the stock shocks. I have some .22 and .30 springs to try out.

I’m still hoping more folks still chime in on this thread with more suggestions. It seems like a lot more things can be learned here.