Trx4 must have brass

[Captain Scoundrel]

I added STRC Brass C hub, portal covers and lower shock mounts in the front. In the rear I used brass lower shock mounts and Diff cover.
I have the inner fender kit and I run with the small 3C Traxxas 1400 mah battery in the front under the hood. I've also removed the stock battery tray.
I have a metal RC4WD Bumper and still running the stock rear bumper.
I've been told TREAL brass is good. But it's a little more expensive and my local shop doesn't carry it.
Also running SSD bead lock wheels and Proline Hyrax 1.9 tires. With proline 2 stage foam.

You want to have a 60/40 weight balance. 60% front and 40% in the rear.

I got this SKYRC Corner Weight Scale System to set my truck up. https://amzn.to/2VwLF13

That's without the Expedition rack or lights. I'm adding the rack and some scale components this week. Once I get the new weight, I'll start looking to see where I need more brass.

"thumbsup"

 

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

You want to have a 60/40 weight balance. 60% front and 40% in the rear.

I got this SKYRC Corner Weight Scale System to set my truck up. https://amzn.to/2VwLF13


"thumbsup"

I need to pick one of these up! I can only imagine how awful my weight balance is. I bet Im 40% front, 60% rear lmao.

 

[MOguy]

We are fighting gravity. Ever single fraction of every single ounce that is not sitting in the dirt is working against you.

Unsprang weight is the best place you can put it. The lighter the rig overall the less unsprung weight you need.

I understand many like the look of the big bodies and all the accessories and enjoy that aspect of it and that is fine but if you are really into the performance side take off the body, take off the extra stuff, get some overdrive, practice and then try it. You will be surprised out how much better your TRX will perform.

 

[Benp]

We are fighting gravity. Ever single fraction of every single ounce that is not sitting in the dirt is working against you.

Unsprang weight is the best place you can put it. The lighter the rig overall the less unsprung weight you need.

I understand many like the look of the big bodies and all the accessories and enjoy that aspect of it and that is fine but if you are really into the performance side take off the body, take off the extra stuff, get some overdrive, practice and then try it. You will be surprised out how much better your TRX will perform.

Great post!

110% agree.

I’m only running brass portals and hexes on my Trx4 Sport. Does pretty well for what I put it through.

My new to me G Speed is a lot lighter than my Trx4. The only brass on that are the “beef tips” (I think) on the shocks to retain the springs. That’s it. I have found no need to add more weight.

 

[JCM5]

I got this SKYRC Corner Weight Scale System to set my truck up. https://amzn.to/2VwLF13

"thumbsup"

Thanks ! Do you know what stock trx6 weight without the battery?
Mine with all the RC4WD scale stuff it’s over 10lbs I guess. I definitely need to get one of those scale.

 

[MOguy]

Great post!

110% agree.

I’m only running brass portals and hexes on my Trx4 Sport. Does pretty well for what I put it through.

My new to me G Speed is a lot lighter than my Trx4. The only brass on that are the “beef tips” (I think) on the shocks to retain the springs. That’s it. I have found no need to add more weight.

It is easier to drive with more weight and drives more "normal" but when you loose weight and learn to drive different the performance gains are incredible.

I run with one wrap of tire weights in each front wheel, and that is it.

 

[Captain Scoundrel]

Thanks ! Do you know what stock trx6 weight without the battery?
Mine with all the RC4WD scale stuff it’s over 10lbs I guess. I definitely need to get one of those scale.

The TRX6 stock is 8.8 Pounds.

 

[Evo93]

Start low and wide with portal covers.
Then for me personally I run a heavy rig i got brass c hubs and steel axle housings, and I also run a full ring of weights in the front wheels and a half ring spread out in the rear wheels.
My class 2 used to weigh about 14lbs but I've been rebuilding it with a new body. Probably won't weigh much less.

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[23drumerboy]

Start low and wide with portal covers.
Then for me personally I run a heavy rig i got brass c hubs and steel axle housings, and I also run a full ring of weights in the front wheels and a half ring spread out in the rear wheels.
My class 2 used to weigh about 14lbs but I've been rebuilding it with a new body. Probably won't weigh much less.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

My only mildy & cheaply, but effectively so far TRX4 Sport was 12lb last i weighed it, and i mean its minimally upgraded.

That, and I am not a huge "scale" guy, personally ... More for performance as i moved to NC from CO, and i had a sweet old 4runner 1:1, i could air down to 12psi and bash in 4 ft of snow no problem!
I digress

I thoroughly appreciate and Looooove these mind-blowing-better than real car shows-scale builds i see here, and other wise online... I really do! As a 12+yr automotive tech/mechanic/and general gear-head since birth, im am often incredibly jaw-dropped, and usually WAY jealous at the attention to scale details i see, the ART!, The #nailedit, #ohs"ootIthoughtthiswasarealcar modelism AND i fully understand the cost/time that goes into each [emoji2962] build i see!

R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

 

[23drumerboy]

Start low and wide with portal covers.
Then for me personally I run a heavy rig i got brass c hubs and steel axle housings, and I also run a full ring of weights in the front wheels and a half ring spread out in the rear wheels.
My class 2 used to weigh about 14lbs but I've been rebuilding it with a new body. Probably won't weigh much less.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Im going to weigh my rig right now, body....NO body?

R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

 

[Benp]

Holy cow!

I thought my Sport was fat at 7 1/2 pounds.

There has to be a point of diminishing returns with so much weight.

 

[23drumerboy]

Holy cow!

I thought my Sport was fat at 7 1/2 pounds.

There has to be a point of diminishing returns with so much weight.

I think the balance between the four corners, versus the amount-total, plays a bigger role on our "scale". Just IMHO. Im no scientist, and i fully believe theres no ONE SINGLE "snowflake" Traxxas, or ANY RTR product on any shelf, anywhere in the entire world, that mimicks another after shipping and handling st the very least.

I very much understand RC tuning, is ALWAYS, always....TRADE-OFFS... change pinion gear 2 teeth, u never gain MORE torque, AND, MORE speed....etc. to each their own, i like to say. And I think every soul that's a member here has incredible knowledge, bits of wisdom, and wayyyy-tooo much for inspiration's-sake to offer!


R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

 

[Evo93]

Im going to weigh my rig right now, body....NO body?

R.C. means both;Remote control, and Rock Crawler.

That was with a 2lb body with interior.

Holy cow!

I thought my Sport was fat at 7 1/2 pounds.

There has to be a point of diminishing returns with so much weight.

Eh, everyones got their own style. It certainly drove great. Had it set up 60/40 forward weight, under and overdrive. Made it up the same lines as the carbon fiber lexan rigs and even won a few trophies back when I used to actually make it to comps. Haha.

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[Wraith1985]

Knuckles (or portal covers in this case) are usually the best bang for the buck on any crawler since you can add all the weight you should ever need with them though the TRX4 can be a fat pig so your mileage may vary.

Avoid adding brass in places that are sprung (sprung weight) like bumpers as they hinder performance a lot more that if its unsprung weight (weight on the axle or anywhere thats not held up by the springs)

I'll also add you can add too much weight, only add as much as you need to alter the F/R balance to your liking then stop lol

I agree 100% I have also added weight, but keeping it low seems to help the most!