Using Castle link on Wraith

[patrol_maverick]

I'm thinking of getting a Castle link for my Wraith.
I downloaded the Castle software to have a look at prior to purchasing the link hardware, but there's no mention of the Axial ESC, so what ESC do you choose from the list? Is there an Axial specific tutorial I can view?

Also would I be best to spend a few $$ extra to get the Field link? It sounds like it does the same job through the PC, as well as being a field programmer. Is that correct?

 

[crawler nut]

the link will pick up the signal from the esc when you plug it in and bring up all of the current settings. if you wish to change them, do so. then save the settings to the esc. i am not familiar with the field link

 

[redrokin00XJ]

I have the field card and after time I found that I was using it for the link more so then the actual card it self. I found that the setting in the castle link are a lot more adjustable then the card.

 

[madkawi650]

My castle field card wont let me adjust the Axial ESC, I have to use the Card as a link and adjust on the computer.
when I plug the card into the Axial ESC alone and power it up, the card lights up like a Christmas tree. The card works on all of my Castle ESC's,, just not on the Axial badged ESC.

 

[Sh0rtBus]

Can't go wrong with the Castle link for the AE-2 ESC. It may not specify the Axial ESC on there, but as soon as you connect it, it recognizes it. AFAIK, the AE-2 ESC was designed for Axial by Castle.

 

[ik632]

I'd get the field link. It's nice because the ESC's that support it can be changed on the fly (though settings are limited).

My AE-2 doesn't work with the card by itself though. I just get the lights flashing back and forth if I try to use the card. When I plug it into my laptop via usb it works fine.

I'd recommend manually setting the LiPo cutoff since the cutoff in the AE-2 doesn't seem to work too well for me. In the sidewinders, you can set auto cutoff so it will detect the number of cells and then set the voltage for them (for example I set 3.4/cell and with 2s it shuts off at 6.8 and 3s shuts off at 10.2). There's no auto option like that on the AE-2 so you just set to 6.8 for 2S or 10.2 for 3S (if you are running an external BEC).

Anyway, long story short, it's worth getting the programmer whether you go with the link or the card. I just like the card because you can always help out a fellow rc'er that may have a supported ESC out in the field.

 

[Draggermirage]

I'd get the field link. It's nice because the ESC's that support it can be changed on the fly (though settings are limited).

I thought the same thing when I bought my CCLink with the field card.

Turns out, in the 1+ years of owning it, I have never used it "in the field". I've never needed to adjust anything in the field that the card would allow you to anyway.

It works just fine with any Castle made component when used as a link, but like said earlier, it won't work on it's own with some ESCs.

If I were to buy it again (and I will be), I'll be going after the USB style simply due to size and how I tend to use it (I have a netbook that I carry with me for other reasons).

If you really want the tuning card though, I've got one that I'll sell dead cheap.

Marcus

 

[bagged86]

If I were you I'd just bite the bullet and get Mamba Max Pro ESC and you can sit there for days changing stuff up and get your car setup the way you want. When I bought my MMP I got a card with it to get a free Castle Link or Field card but you have to have a USB cord to use it it. Well worth the money man.

 

[patrol_maverick]

Turns out, in the 1+ years of owning it, I have never used it "in the field". I've never needed to adjust anything in the field that the card would allow you to anyway.

It works just fine with any Castle made component when used as a link, but like said earlier, it won't work on it's own with some ESCs.

I'd get the field link. It's nice because the ESC's that support it can be changed on the fly (though settings are limited).

My AE-2 doesn't work with the card by itself though. I just get the lights flashing back and forth if I try to use the card. When I plug it into my laptop via usb it works fine.

So you're saying it's a bit poinless buying the field card as it won't work with the AE-2 in the field.
And would be best with the regular link since field adjustments probably won't be a common thing.
Correct??

I'd recommend manually setting the LiPo cutoff since the cutoff in the AE-2 doesn't seem to work too well for me. In the sidewinders, you can set auto cutoff so it will detect the number of cells and then set the voltage for them (for example I set 3.4/cell and with 2s it shuts off at 6.8 and 3s shuts off at 10.2). There's no auto option like that on the AE-2 so you just set to 6.8 for 2S or 10.2 for 3S (if you are running an external BEC).

What's the factory cutoff set at? I've only got Nimh's at the moment and it kept glitching the other day. I suspect it might be the voltage cutoff going on/off. Would this be the case?