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Wakeside's JK Kit build

wakeside

Newbie
Joined
Feb 13, 2013
Messages
42
Location
San Jose
Hey All,
New to the site and new to the addiction of crawling.
A little history pre-build first. As I was browsing for my future wraith build at the LHS, the UPS guy walked in with boxes from Axial. As soon as the shop owner opened the box, I was pulling out my $$'s and picked it up. I was amazed at the scale look of this and after building a TF2, I couldnt resist so here is my short and dirty build thread. Oh and I loved the red so thats what I went with but changed it ever so slightly.

Unfortunately, I did't take many chassis build photos but I will try to list out some of the minor mods I made in the process.
Electronics:
Tekin FX-R
Spektrum Rec.
Hitech 645MG w/OFNA servo horn
5000 2 cell lipo
VP bead locks - on the way
shock bump stops removed and a couple of turns to the coil nuts to support the weight up front.
** I replaced the upper plastic links from my dingo since they were the same size.
Traxxas ball links were also used to replace the plastic ones that come with the kit.

Roller and Electronics - Ready to prep the body:



Its really hard to see but I added the alum servo arm and also ground out a small area on the cross member to increase a bit a travel without compromising the integrity of the brace.
The screw and nut that connects the link to the arm is where I cut out a bit of the cross member. I will try to take a cleaner photo later.


After looking at everyone's take on making fender wells, I decided to make my own using styrene. First thing was to make a well template using an old gift box. (card stock will work as well)


Heres a cutting mat photo for scale if you are interested.
Basically traced the inner well and trimmed to fit.


Next I cut some strips of styrene for the arches. The front strips are slightly skinnier in width compared to the rear. I think the rear was about 2" and fit the body nicely with very little daylight showing through.


Then I glued the strips to the well slowly making my way around.


I just used the same template for the fronts and made another one for the rear. Once all 4 were set, I test fitted them, and trimmed to fit.
Here is one all fitted and cut.


Once I was happy, I painted them up and remounted them. Because I used the provided light buckets for the front, I had to trim them just a bit more but here is all 4 wells mounted to the chassis.



Onto the paint. The provided masks did't fit to my liking for the top so I made my own. Here is the body. Taking your time on this body is the key to success. I used to just blow through it but took my time here.


Test fitted the cage and my driver. Ended up popping the upper body off and filled the inside with epoxy. Added a spare body pin and mounted him. I actually used the rubber bump stop spacer from the shocks to hold him in. Fits very snug over the body pin and is really hard to come off. Im sure after a while I will need to check it.


The window masks for the windshield and top were terrible so I used blue painters tape. Came out pretty clean but heres the two painted and mounted.
Painted the inside and outside on both for that flat black look. Opted to paint the front and rear door frames in black as well. I liked the look.
Im sure most people know but the plastic overspray film is a good mask when painting the exterior. I simply used a xacto and cut the film around the windows.


Next up was the lighting.
I didnt like the exposed LED's in the bumpers so I cut some spare lenses from a tamiya hilux kit to fit the front and rear. The fronts were already tinted yellow so I only painted the rears with a transparent red. I also dipped the lower marker lights in an orange paint. The kit comes with some plastic tail lights for the body so i drilled out a space to put some more leds and covered them with the decal. Installed the front light buckets and painted them black. I think it gives a cool look similar to what I've seen with some rally style headlights.


Here is the front all lit up.


Added a winch from RCw4d to the bumper. I know the plastic is not really strong so I cut a plate of aluminum and drilled 3mm holes to mount it. Seems ok until i replace it with a metal one.
(A little side note for those like me that didnt know. When configuring my radio for the winch as a 3p switch, I noticed the winch creeping in the off position. There is a little potentiometer you can adjust to stop that)
Added the skid plates from Junfac. Not sure how they will work yet. Thinking it may get hung up but it looks tough for now.


Well I think that about sums it up for this build for now. Still want to add more scale stuff like a basket. Might pick that up today. Also want to get some more aluminum stuff like chubs and what not but those will come as things wear out.

Hope you all enjoy!
D
 
I'm in the process of going through my RTR JK. Love this thing. Looks great. Great job on the wheel wells.

cheers,
kyle
 
Looks great! I like how the fender wells turned out - could you post a close up of them after you got them painted black with the wheels installed?
"thumbsup"
 
Looks great! I like how the fender wells turned out - could you post a close up of them after you got them painted black with the wheels installed?
"thumbsup"

Here you go. Not sure if thats what you are looking for but if there is a different angle you want, let me know.
Thanks for all the kind words everyone!



 
8)
Thanks!
I tried the sandwich container first but I didnt like how it came out.
Styrene is really nice to work with and its pretty strong if bonded correctly.
We shall see how well they hold up once I get her on the road.
 
Just noticed you were new to the site - welcome! I'm pretty new to the crawling scene myself, the addiction only seems to increase and brutalize my hobby funds! Lol - my robotics have been penniless for the duration since discovering this...
:)
 
Just noticed you were new to the site - welcome! I'm pretty new to the crawling scene myself, the addiction only seems to increase and brutalize my hobby funds! Lol - my robotics have been penniless for the duration since discovering this...
:)

Yeah! I've been into RC helis and planes for some time but lost interest. Got back into RC starting with a nitro but the pedal to the metal driving got boring after a while.
Once I started crawling, I got hooked. I now have 4 rigs with my wraith being the next project.
Its even more enjoyable crawling with friends.
Met some really cool people already Postclanker, Meatwad, Phat2011, and some others. Cool hobby with cool people!!
 
Yeah! I've been into RC helis and planes for some time but lost interest. Got back into RC starting with a nitro but the pedal to the metal driving got boring after a while.
Once I started crawling, I got hooked. I now have 4 rigs with my wraith being the next project.
Its even more enjoyable crawling with friends.
Met some really cool people already Postclanker, Meatwad, Phat2011, and some others. Cool hobby with cool people!!

Cool! I just picked up a Blade 450 3D - and a Blade Nano CPX that I converted to brushless - love flying, always will! Recently updated my FPV setup as well, was running my Dingo through the neighborhood from my living room - lots of fun! After running the Gaui quad at night via FPV and EL lighting making it look UFO like, I think the neighbors have assigned me to the "That weird RC guy" realm and didnt bat an eye when running the dingo through their yards with no one visible driving it.... ;)
 
Sorry but I forgot to add this photo of the styrene used for the wheel wells.
Bought this at my LHS. Plastruct. Used some styrene bonding liquid and topped it with some medium CA glue and zip kicker.
 
Hi, what kind of paint used for painting?

Hey nemo,
Not sure what paint you are talking about but for the body I used tamiya lexan paint. The top was painted inside and outside to get that satin look. For the wheel wells I just used some black paint I had in the garage.
Take a look in general section. There's plenty of tips that helped me when painting the body.
 
So I now have three scx's! Didnt see a need to create another build so I just added it here.
Heres my latest.
Project JK117 Stealth Crawler
Specs:
VP Alum. Front/Rear shock mounts
VP Currie axles - black front and rear
VP TI Links
VP Lockers
Axial HD bevel gears front/rear OD/UD
VP VVD's
VP Chubs, knuckles
VP OMF 1.9 running stock Trepadors in reverse tread
FXR /3s 2200mah Lipo
Tekin 35T
Hitec 7955@6volts
Paint: Skunk works black

Body paint complete:


Checking the fit:


Pre-shelf queen photo shoot - Front axles


More:


Some tech notes that Im sure are on the forums somewhere too:
1. Currie axle installation is pretty straight forward. However, one must remove the front cross member in order to clear the steering servo.
2. Bent links should be bent upwards for increased clearance. (Obviously)
3. Watch the VP video that Evol put together when building the links. Helped me a lot.

My first impression:
First of all, I really like the quality of VP products. They are well made and look great to boot. Price is a little high but you get what you pay for. Super happy with all of their stuff so far.
The currie axles have been out for a while and Im sure there are a lot of reviews. Having three scx10 rigs has allowed me to compare parts/upgrades/tires etc.... Im still really new to this crawling hobby but I love researching, reading everyone's ideas/input/advice, and learning.

The dingo performed really well out of the box with little to no mods. However, the huge bumpers got in the way. (easy fix) The rubicon kit also performed nicely but was really top/rear heavy and toppled over easily. I've seen videos of the rubicon rtr and it looked to handle pretty well. I however, had to remove the spare tire in order to crawl. Granted my rubi was bone stock with no additional weights etc.....
With this new rubicon, I was able to take all the flaws and make the necessary changes to improve the performance of the rig.
The new currie axles add much needed weight to the rig lowering the cog.
Now I realize I could have accomplished the same results by adding weighted wheels, knuckle weights etc....but I wanted the bling factor.
The added weight keeps the truck planted. Add that plus the mirrored trans and flipped skid, the torque now pushes the front pass tire down. The delrin skids under the pumpkin perform really well also.

Overall, I'm really happy with the way its turned out. I still have more stuff to add like scale accessories and lights but as it sits, its heaps more capable than my other rigs. I have a little trail in my backyard that allows me to test but Im hoping to get out on the rocks soon.
Sorry if im rambling or begin redundant. Building is 60% of my enjoyment.

I will try to take some comparison photos with the stock jk vs the JK117
 
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