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What battery for Bully 2 RTR

cloudswimmer

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
264
Location
So. Cal.
Hey guys,

I'm toying with the idea of getting a Bully 2 RTR. Could somebody point me to a proper battery with the right connector to get me started. I have experience with scalers, but this comp crawler thing is all new to me.

Thanks ..... Chris
 
Look for an 500 to 850 mah 3s, you will want to dump the factory plug (Tamiya?) pop a Deans or xt60
80c0502413ab29f6cdf72f986947469b.jpg


I run these broods on the factory mount
7eda46d582ba98f4bffa256eab120f4a.jpg



Hang up and Drive
 
Hey thanks for helping Mike. Yeah just got an email from RC4WD confirming it comes with a Tamiya plug, I'm a little baffled why anyone would use that connector in 2017 but it is what it is I guess. I'm pretty sure I have some virgin Deans plugs here somewhere. So I looked at Broods site, and found your batteries, it looks like they come with a Deans plug, is that correct? And how much run time do you get with the battery on a full charge? Thanks bro "thumbsup"

Chris
 
I'm running BRMD and 35t stock motors, the 850's give about 25 to 35 min run.

They have red heat shrink, that means they came wired.


Hang up and Drive
 
Where in So Cal are located? I'd personally buy 450mah - 600mah 3s lipo batteries.

IMO that 850 is way to big... sorry Mike
 
cloudswimmer come on out to Check us out (Border Line Crawlers) on May 20th Horseman's park Apple valley CA. I
 
I bought a RTR kit a month back or so. Just know you need to put grease in the axle housings and locktite every bolt. It's kind of overwhelming at first seeing the mess of wiring and crap but if you take your time it can be put back together correctly and way cleaner.
Oh and I recommend soldering the motor wires to the motor on the top. They come plugged into the bottom where rocks will hit, and plugging them into the top is not enough they will still be at a bad angle. Anyway good luck man its awesome. Your next upgrade will probably be knuckle weights.
 
I bought a RTR kit a month back or so. Just know you need to put grease in the axle housings and locktite every bolt. It's kind of overwhelming at first seeing the mess of wiring and crap but if you take your time it can be put back together correctly and way cleaner.
Oh and I recommend soldering the motor wires to the motor on the top. They come plugged into the bottom where rocks will hit, and plugging them into the top is not enough they will still be at a bad angle. Anyway good luck man its awesome. Your next upgrade will probably be knuckle weights.

Thanks Joel for the warnings. I figured it wouldn't be truly RTR. I bought their KOH RTR, and not only was it not ready to run, the geometry was way off all over the place due to sloppy welding and what appears to be no jig during said welding. Never did get it running. So is there like NO grease in the axles? And were you able to get the electronics to sit a little lower in the rig? Any pics? I'm not real found of the look of the electronics being packed to the roof not to mention COG issues (though maybe the COG is negligable with this rig) What I don't want is another project, I have three scalers still in build stages, I just want something to drive now. Thanks bro ..... Chris
 
Yes there is no grease and the bolts were randomly loose. As for the wiring I was able to tuck it pretty well without shortening wires. I just coiled them up here and there.

This is how I laid out the electronics on the bottom plate with double sided tape. Dig unit is in middle and then I bolted that plate thing on top.
KTAXAbDh.jpg


Example of motor wiring.
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Sg1O5kl.jpg
 
Great job Joel! MUCH cleaner looking. Great pics too, will use your pics as reference for my own. Geez can I just send my rig over to you to tidy it up :mrgreen: Big thanks bro "thumbsup"
 
Great job Joel! MUCH cleaner looking. Great pics too, will use your pics as reference for my own. Geez can I just send my rig over to you to tidy it up :mrgreen: Big thanks bro "thumbsup"


You're probably kidding, however we are close enough if you want/need help hook up with me. I'll tidy the bully2 up and get you on the rocks comping with us in no time at all "thumbsup"
 
Great job Joel! MUCH cleaner looking. Great pics too, will use your pics as reference for my own. Geez can I just send my rig over to you to tidy it up :mrgreen: Big thanks bro "thumbsup"

You'll be surprised at what you can do after a couple days of messing with something. I really had no idea what I was doing but I just kept poking at it and trying different things. It's good to do that for yourself anyway because you'll know the thing inside and out.
 
Personally I'd recommend a small battery. I run 850s and they are just too big. They work but are very big.
Also if you know how to use a solder iron its very easy to clean the wires up and get everything to fit below. My receiver is only on top because I switched it between two trucks and was being lazy


 
Hey Evo, thanks for the pic, I like your paint "thumbsup" Yeah I do solder pretty well .. just getting lazy in my late middle age :roll: lol. Well I'm now a couple hundred short of getting this Bully 2 RTR, so I think its time to sell my still new in box RC4WD Blackwell axles to make up the difference I'm short, I had big plans for those axles dawg on it, but you can only have so many builds going at one time. Ok so your the third guy I've heard from that recommended a battery smaller than 850's ..... so whats the smallest you'd recommend? Thanks bro "thumbsup"

Chris 'cloudswimmer' S
 
Everybody will tell you get that tiny batt, you don't need long run times, or all that bulk and weight.
I run the big ones, have found they balance out the servo and I added huge knuckle weights, I want that weight down low, up front. I can run for 25 minutes per battery, just about correct to rehydrate me in the sun. I don't have heat issues at all so I don't understand the reasoning .
TO runs 450...... it will work


Hang up and Drive
 
Comp courses most time out @ 6min. so your battery really only needs to last more than 6min. If you were going to compete locally with us. I'd suggest 450 - 600mah 3s lipos. And practice with same batteries so the rig is consistent in its performance.
 
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