Which Parts for Better Steering?

[SCX10Dingo]

Hey, Guys. I am looking to upgrade the steering on my dingo. I have done a little research, but wanted ask to be sure. I am looking at doing the axial chubs and high steer knuckles. Is this all I will need? Will I have to have the cv's as well? Thanks!

 

[johnnyh66]

The dog bones may start to bind if you steer to far.
The universals are a good upgrade.

Also, over drive and under drive gears really help turning radius.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

Thanks for the good info. The universals aren't cheap - wanted to be sure that they would be worth it.

So it looks like I will need:
chubs
knuckles
universals
diff gears

 

[k7zpj]

Hey, Guys. I am looking to upgrade the steering on my dingo. I have done a little research, but wanted ask to be sure. I am looking at doing the axial chubs and high steer knuckles. Is this all I will need? Will I have to have the cv's as well? Thanks!

The high clearance knuckles will require a longer tie rod. The stock length will be too short and you will have a lot of toe in.

To get the additional range you will need to have the universals. I had some breakage issues with the Axial universal joints. I was breaking pins so I replaced them with gunner pins. Solved the broken pin problem but I broke the axle stub where the pin goes thru.

I am in the process of doing a new build using the Vanquish VVD's. They seem to be built stronger than the Axial parts but cost a lot more. There seems to be a mixed opinion on them in the Vanquish area here on RCC.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

The high clearance knuckles will require a longer tie rod. The stock length will be too short and you will have a lot of toe in.

To get the additional range you will need to have the universals. I had some breakage issues with the Axial universal joints. I was breaking pins so I replaced them with gunner pins. Solved the broken pin problem but I broke the axle stub where the pin goes thru.

I am in the process of doing a new build using the Vanquish VVD's. They seem to be built stronger than the Axial parts but cost a lot more. There seems to be a mixed opinion on them in the Vanquish area here on RCC.

What tie rod will I need? I guess the vanquish could be cheaper if I didn't buy the axials, break them, then replace them?

 

[Huber1918]

Not to High Jack a topic, But what do you mean by over drive/ under drive?

 

[johnnyh66]

Not to High Jack a topic, But what do you mean by over drive/ under drive?

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/437606-overdriving-front-axle.html

 

[johnnyh66]

What tie rod will I need? I guess the vanquish could be cheaper if I didn't buy the axials, break them, then replace them?

IDK, I've always used threaded rod with aluminum or stainless steel tubing and Traxxas Revo rod ends.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

I guess I'll have to just get the front end parts and measure how long of a tie rod I will need? Where do you get the tubing?

 

[k7zpj]

What tie rod will I need? I guess the vanquish could be cheaper if I didn't buy the axials, break them, then replace them?

You have to make it. Using all-thread / brake line tube is the cheapest way and has the advantage of you being able to cut it to the right length. It might take a couple tries until you get the right length down for the way your rig handles. Once you figure out the length that works the best record the eye to eye length.

You can have R2J make you a custom tie rod out of stainless if you need more strength or bling factor.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

Thanks. It's surprising that axial doesn't make a tie rod to fit their upgrade parts...

 

[k7zpj]

I guess I'll have to just get the front end parts and measure how long of a tie rod I will need? Where do you get the tubing?

You can use steel brake line from an auto parts store or McMaster-Carr.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

That should be easy enough.

 

[k7zpj]

Thanks. It's surprising that axial doesn't make a tie rod to fit their upgrade parts...

The parts were designed for the AX-10 scorpion but can be used on the SCX-10 if you do the mods.

I have them on my Honcho and they helped. Using universals buys you more than the high clearance knuckles. On my JKU build I decide to use STRC CHUBS / Knuckles to help bring the budget back in line after buying VP lockers and VVDs.

 

[05Fronty4x]

You can bend and lengthen the stock aluminum tie rod, if that's what you have right now, to work with Axial high clearance knuckles.

If you have something to use for spacers is definitely the frugal way to attack the tie rod issue with high clearance knuckles. You can see here the spacers I've added to each end. I used what were shock spacers for my Losi which are the perfect diameter. I had a bunch of different thicknesses so I was able to fine tune the toe.

Note that unlike stock, where both links attatch to the top of the knuckle, the tie rod is now on bottom, and drag link is on top. The bend is so the link clears the axle during full lock with the sharper steering angle.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

The pics help. Thanks.

 

[SCX10Dingo]

The parts were designed for the AX-10 scorpion but can be used on the SCX-10 if you do the mods.

I have them on my Honcho and they helped. Using universals buys you more than the high clearance knuckles. On my JKU build I decide to use STRC CHUBS / Knuckles to help bring the budget back in line after buying VP lockers and VVDs.

I cant find the axial part number for the tie rod. Would you happen to have it handy?

 

[k7zpj]

The parts to make the tie rod and drag link are:
ax30516 6x 106mm x1 Tie Rod
ax30517 6 x 33mm x1 drag link
ax80005-2 rod ends x2
ax80005-1 rod ends x2
ax80018 Ball ends x4
axa186 M3 x 16mm set screw
axa1413 1x6 mm spacer -- Used to add length
axa1414 2x6 mm spacer -- Used to add length

 

[SCX10Dingo]

Thank you very much!

 

[SCX10Dingo]

Got the high steer knuckles installed and the steering horn looks too long. It looks like the horn is going to hit the tie rod. I haven't redone the tie rod yet, so I cannot fully cycle the steering. I have a pic, but cant figure out how to post it.