WICKED's Creeper

[WICKED MQ]

G'Day all!
New to the site and too RC Crawling.

I have a Venom Creeper and HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT TROUBLE with the POS. BUT in saying that I have it now and want to make it the best it can be :roll: and Venom aren't replying to email's. They Guy here in AUS that i got the kit off has been great too"thumbsup"

It has -
4 wheel steer
Dig
6 Channel Controller
Dual Remote Diff lock's (BROKEN AND CRAP) Now Spool's
Aftermarket Belly plate with the front link slot's.... AWESOME! Should be factory! lol

I have driven it for maybe 4 hours now and have had a broken front diff, Broken CVD pin x2, Broken C hub, Tail shafts are poo. The HV CVD's I bought 4 off don't fit.

I have searched and look into a lot of stuff. Over here in AUS the creeper is uncommon, like the Nissan Patrol in the USA, and I can't find and dealers that have stuff that I can go look at and talk to about the mods and pros cons and all that of the mods for the creeper.

NOW The Advice and Info I need is -

WHAT DO I CHANGE?
WHAT WORKS AND WHAT DOESN'T?
WHERE DO I GET IT?
GOOD/BAD BRANDS OF CREEPER PART'S? (As stated above stuff already bought doesn't fit)
WHAT OTHER BRAND'S FIT? AXIAL?

Now I really like the CKRC BTA kit, stage 2 sus kit and the Alloy C Hub but shipping is around $60US over $300US of gear so getting it too AUS will be well over $420 AUS.

I Want too get Alloy c hub's, Good, Strong axel and CVD's THAT FIT and are complete blot in, Alloy Driveshaft's.

IF I fit a good place that has good prices and shipping's cheap I'll also get White DOT Rover's and MAYBE some new weighted rim's.

Any and all HELP is Much appreciated!

Cheers Benny.

 

[rmdesignworks]

first off,,,welcome to the site and crawling.

Second,,,what problems are you having? its easier to tell you what to fix if we know whats not working.

 

[WICKED MQ]

first off,,,welcome to the site and crawling.

Second,,,what problems are you having? its easier to tell you what to fix if we know whats not working.

Cheer's. Not new too crawling, just the 1/10th stuff Lol

The diff's, Pretty much the whole diff has been problematic. I fix the locker by going spool's, now the CVD's are break the pins. I've broken 2 now that were High Speed Tool Steel. i'll be make another set this arvo (I've just got back from playing and broke them between this morning's post and now) I will be doing the sleeve and heat shrink trick this time tho.
The drive shaft's keep lossening the grub screw's. I've tapped the thread out to try make it cleaner and they still come lose, locktite and all.

Pretty much wanna make the diff's bullet proof and need the info as too were to get the parts from. Good name, Good Service and Good Prices.

 

[WICKED MQ]

This is were I was playing when the CVD Pin let go this morning.
I want to drive this sorta stuff with out thinking about breaking something.

 

[Abavuso]

Most hobby shops don't carry stuff for the venom. Best luck for parts is e-bay. Or I personally enjoy using www.ckrccrawler.com. Replace your knuckles and c hubs with the aluminum ones to start and then switch your cvd's to a traxxas stampede shaft and yoke. You cand also search for the thread on bullet proofing your axles. As for the dif you can jb it if you don't care about the abilities to unlock the diff or you can get the aluminum housings I've not used them because there's no need to unlock the did for me while crawling. Hope that helps.

 

[GB's 05]

I fixed the shafts by replacing the grubs with bolts and lots of loc-tite. Just put in a bolt and ground it off flush on both sides pinching the pin. I've never had any problems with the factory shafts and I comp mine at 8lb's. I tried the traxxas shafts and I can't keep them from popping apart if it starts bouncing.

 

[rmdesignworks]

Cheer's. Not new too crawling, just the 1/10th stuff Lol

The diff's, Pretty much the whole diff has been problematic. I fix the locker by going spool's, now the CVD's are break the pins. I've broken 2 now that were High Speed Tool Steel. i'll be make another set this arvo (I've just got back from playing and broke them between this morning's post and now) I will be doing the sleeve and heat shrink trick this time tho.
The drive shaft's keep lossening the grub screw's. I've tapped the thread out to try make it cleaner and they still come lose, locktite and all.

Pretty much wanna make the diff's bullet proof and need the info as too were to get the parts from. Good name, Good Service and Good Prices.

Ben,,Ive changed out all of my stock grub screws to Grade8 black oxide grubs...use a degreaser like brake cleaner or carburator cleaner to clean the yokes and then reinstall the grub screws with red loctite,,,once the grubs sets up then back them out and reapply red loctite and reinstall.

the problem with tool steel is that it is too brittle,,you need a steel that give just a bit,,,try some pieces of spring steel (piano wire) of the proper diameter. something Im gonna try when I do finally rebuid my axles (still running the original set of everything) is to take pieces of piano wire and tamp or mushroom the ends on the outside of the cup to hold them in...which means it shouldnt need the grub screws at all.

Thomas

 

[WICKED MQ]

Most hobby shops don't carry stuff for the venom. Best luck for parts is e-bay. Or I personally enjoy using www.ckrccrawler.com. Replace your knuckles and c hubs with the aluminum ones to start and then switch your cvd's to a traxxas stampede shaft and yoke. You cand also search for the thread on bullet proofing your axles. As for the dif you can jb it if you don't care about the abilities to unlock the diff or you can get the aluminum housings I've not used them because there's no need to unlock the did for me while crawling. Hope that helps.

CKRC look the good's but it's almost $60US in Shipping. Were as LiqiurdRC have everything but the BTA for the same price but $1 shipping. I was going to get 2x BTA steering kits, so would be easier too get it all from CKRC but at the cost.....

What's involved in making the Traxxas Stampede stuff fit? Link? As i mentioned I do have the Dig unit so will that still work?

I HAD the remote lockers, Now have FML's.

I fixed the shafts by replacing the grubs with bolts and lots of loc-tite. Just put in a bolt and ground it off flush on both sides pinching the pin. I've never had any problems with the factory shafts and I comp mine at 8lb's. I tried the traxxas shafts and I can't keep them from popping apart if it starts bouncing.

Ok sweet I'll look at that. Cheers Mate. What is at 8lbs? The RC Crawler's weight?

Ben,,Ive changed out all of my stock grub screws to Grade8 black oxide grubs...use a degreaser like brake cleaner or carburator cleaner to clean the yokes and then reinstall the grub screws with red loctite,,,once the grubs sets up then back them out and reapply red loctite and reinstall.

the problem with tool steel is that it is too brittle,,you need a steel that give just a bit,,,try some pieces of spring steel (piano wire) of the proper diameter. something Im gonna try when I do finally rebuid my axles (still running the original set of everything) is to take pieces of piano wire and tamp or mushroom the ends on the outside of the cup to hold them in...which means it shouldnt need the grub screws at all.

Thomas

Hmm Food for thought there. Thanks Thomas

 

[WICKED MQ]

Cheer's. Not new too crawling, just the 1/10th stuff Lol

For those that are keen this is my 1:1 Crawler :ror:

 

[GB's 05]

The whole crawler weighs 8lbs.

 

[HwnElf]

Theres alot of info in the 'tips and tricks' thread above and alot of interesting mods in the various build threads."thumbsup"

 

[rmdesignworks]

I fixed the shafts by replacing the grubs with bolts and lots of loc-tite. Just put in a bolt and ground it off flush on both sides pinching the pin. I've never had any problems with the factory shafts and I comp mine at 8lb's. I tried the traxxas shafts and I can't keep them from popping apart if it starts bouncing.

My only concern with doing this would be getting the screws out if you needed to remove the shafts for service or tranny work...I would do the screw thing but I would cut and trim the screws until they were about a hair longer than the yoke is deep and tighten them in that way. Even using a button head screw, but not cutting it off where you cant remove it. maybe notch the end of the cut screw so it can be removed with a straight blade screwdriver.

 

[WICKED MQ]

Ok So i pulled down the broken CVD and made a pin out of an Allen Key, It was a smaller size then the hole in the axe, I didn't have the correct size heat shrink so I used Elec tape. Pin, 1 layer of tape, an Alummium Ring (Softdrink Can) and another 2 layers of tape. Trimmed the tape and have been driving ever since. I've driven it every day since fixing it saturday arvo. I used 2 whole Battaries this arvo (11.1v Lipo 3cell's) and drained the Battaries in my controller (8xAA 6Ch) and nothing broke and HAD A BLAST!

I stripped down both drive shaft's cleaned with carby cleaner, tapped/clean the thread's, got new grub screw's (Left over's) and loctited it and the extra and haven't lost 1 yet :ror:

What I have found is that this thing crawl's better in Reverse than Forward. Weather it's the weight, torque pushing down not lifting up or the tyres running in reverse I don't know. I'm going to turn my tyres round for now. See if that makes a difference (White DOT Rovers ASAP Tho) After that i'll look at moveing the weight if need be.

Really wanna look at reducing torque twist. Stage 2 CKRC Kit help there?
Was glitching pretty bad when I crawl but not when It's flat out. Why? It's 2.4 Gegahz

SO after FINIALING Having a good run with it :twisted: I have started to learn how too drive it (Still massively bad at it but ) and looking at thing's that need changing. Oh and that I need too cut more of the body away.;-)

The New belly pan made a MASSIVE difference for how it use too be (IIRC that is)

 

[rmdesignworks]

Ben,,Ill send you a pm this afternoon about your rig,,,I know why you are having the TT issues,,,u dont need the Stage 2 kit.

 

[WICKED MQ]

Ben,,Ill send you a pm this afternoon about your rig,,,I know why you are having the TT issues,,,u dont need the Stage 2 kit.

Cheers mate.

 

[rmdesignworks]

hey Ben,,,Sitting here I just realized the time difference between the US where I am and where you are,,,as I write this at 651pm Tuesday my time its almost 11 am on Wednesday where you are...Now Im on track.

Anyway on your rig...one of the biggest reasons you are having problems with Torque Twist is your upper rear links are in the stock location on the rear axle. Either make a new plate or make a piece to bolt to your servo plate or wait for one of mine when they come out...but youll need to spread the upper rear link apart and raise them above where they are now. The 2Stage kit wont fix the TT if the links arent moved. Those upper rear link need to be as close to parallel with the chassis side plates as you can get them. By raising them up you will have anti-squat applied to the chassis and rear axle which will help immensely with the TT. Now one thing to keep in mind. TT will always be worse when turning right uphill,,,its the physics of the shaft drive,,,you can apply a bit more preload to the right front shock to help with this. You can refer to pics in my thread for how I placed my rear upper links. I made a custom plate for the rear axle and used a pair of servo mounts to raise the links up. My TT was cut by probably 90%...I am running white springs on Losi shocks and 25 wt oil in four shocks. My rig settles like crazy. The suspension is soft but rebounds to ride height under its own power with out lifting the chassis by hand.

I really hope this helps.

 

[WICKED MQ]

Ok after reading up and talking to rmdesignworks I've changed a few things and have been running 2 battaries flat a day since Sunday and been loving it!

I would the back right shock in about 1/3 more than the other shock's and turned the back tyres round. They grip awesome when using the rear steer. I'm not too sure it would be any good on a soild axle tho.

I broke a 4th CVD pin today and made another :roll: I can't wait for some good axles and pins!!!

 

[rmdesignworks]

WHERE'S THE PICS,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,???????????????????

So did you do the upper rear link mod then? At least youre having fun,,,thats the key.

 

[GB's 05]

I can still remove the shafts. As long as I don't break an axle shaft I'm good. "thumbsup"The cvd has nothing to do with tare down of either the trans or the axle.

The only TT mine has is if I'm in a bad bind. My rear links are in the stock location on the axles, but are as long as I could get them on my homemade chassis. I think the shocks I used has a lot to do with fixing my TT.

 

[WICKED MQ]

No pic's. Just been driving.
No I haven't done the upper link mod yet. When will your plates be read? I might make or might wait.....

The shock alone reduced it by more than half I'd guess.

Got a package from Venom yesterday. Replacement Locker servos adn a Diff centre kit. Customer service was good too send them but not replying to my email was a little annoying (In the dark so too speak) but they came thro so all good.