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WICKED's Creeper

Ok so been playing...... And have a FEW Pics....

I stole a few (ALL) rocks from the garden till I can get some bigger one's. Put them around a Palm Tree and a rock wall and wallar a plat area. Lol

SDC11413.jpg


posers!
SDC11416.jpg

SDC11419.jpg


And The Torque twist is BAD :shock:

SDC11424.jpg
 
Hey bro,,,TT is gonna lift your right front tire not the left front,,if its not planting the tires thats weight,,TT will go away big time if you mod the rear upper links like I did,,,,dont listen to the bullshite about shock springs and oil fixing it. Look at my rear axle plate,,,you can make one using your servo plate as a template for the axle mounting holes and some servo posts...you dont special links either.
 
rmdesignworks said:
Hey bro,,,TT is gonna lift your right front tire not the left front,,if its not planting the tires thats weight,,TT will go away big time if you mod the rear upper links like I did,,,,dont listen to the bullshite about shock springs and oil fixing it. Look at my rear axle plate,,,you can make one using your servo plate as a template for the axle mounting holes and some servo posts...you dont special links either.
Click to expand...


Hmmm if that's the case.... I don't have a. Torque twist. It's ALWAYS the left NEVER the right. :s
 
rmdesignworks said:
Ben,,Ive changed out all of my stock grub screws to Grade8 black oxide grubs...use a degreaser like brake cleaner or carburator cleaner to clean the yokes and then reinstall the grub screws with red loctite,,,once the grubs sets up then back them out and reapply red loctite and reinstall.

the problem with tool steel is that it is too brittle,,you need a steel that give just a bit,,,try some pieces of spring steel (piano wire) of the proper diameter. something Im gonna try when I do finally rebuid my axles (still running the original set of everything) is to take pieces of piano wire and tamp or mushroom the ends on the outside of the cup to hold them in...which means it shouldnt need the grub screws at all.

Thomas
Click to expand...

Nice to see I wasn't wrong in my thinkin on the spring steel... I went to my hardware store and picked up hitch pin clips (big body clips) and cut them to fit, I didn't think of piano wire till after the fact at my lhs, coulda got a lot. More pins for less, next step is to replace all and do the aluminum heatshrink trick on them
 
I added around 300 grams too my front tyres tonight after stuffing around this arvo. Keen too see a difference!
 
WICKED MQ said:
Cheer's. Not new too crawling, just the 1/10th stuff Lol

The diff's, Pretty much the whole diff has been problematic. I fix the locker by going spool's, now the CVD's are break the pins. I've broken 2 now that were High Speed Tool Steel. i'll be make another set this arvo (I've just got back from playing and broke them between this morning's post and now) I will be doing the sleeve and heat shrink trick this time tho.
The drive shaft's keep lossening the grub screw's. I've tapped the thread out to try make it cleaner and they still come lose, locktite and all.

Pretty much wanna make the diff's bullet proof and need the info as too were to get the parts from. Good name, Good Service and Good Prices.
Click to expand...

haha yea i had that same problem with my driveshafts and they kept fallin off and it was very annoying, but now since i got my new drive shafts they havnt fallin off yet, and i got the new driveshafts first of all cuz we stripped the screw thing which i forget what its called and second of all hoped for better luck with the ds falling off, we got it from ckrc
 
rmdesignworks said:
The only thing I can think of that would cause it to do the things youre saying is the huge lipo you are running up high like you have it..its somehow counteracting the TT going one way but the weak springs let lift going the other....
Click to expand...

I'll take sone photo the body off for you.

I'm going play with the 4 link rear the weekend. Will have pics.
 
Tires on your Creeper

Hey Wicked,
This won't assist with your lifting, but I noticed your tires are stock.
I followed a thread by Simon O (you can find it in the creeper forums) that suggested tire mods.
To be honest if you have the cash getting some Rovers is the better bet, but if you want to experiment and learn a bit about making mods to your tires to improve them, You should start cutting off some of the lugs.
I did and it makes a world of difference. The tires still wont be as good as Rovers, but they are much better than they were stock.
Following Simons advice I cut all the short lugs in the center off with side cutters, I then cut the short lugs on the sides off. It made a great deal of difference.
I only did the fronts at first to see what the difference would be.
The front definately had more traction.
The rears would spin but the fronts would dig in more.
Give it a shot, the mod is completely free, all you need is time and side cutters, and it makes a difference.
 
Captain Midnight said:
Hey Wicked,
This won't assist with your lifting, but I noticed your tires are stock.
I followed a thread by Simon O (you can find it in the creeper forums) that suggested tire mods.
To be honest if you have the cash getting some Rovers is the better bet, but if you want to experiment and learn a bit about making mods to your tires to improve them, You should start cutting off some of the lugs.
I did and it makes a world of difference. The tires still wont be as good as Rovers, but they are much better than they were stock.
Following Simons advice I cut all the short lugs in the center off with side cutters, I then cut the short lugs on the sides off. It made a great deal of difference.
I only did the fronts at first to see what the difference would be.
The front definately had more traction.
The rears would spin but the fronts would dig in more.
Give it a shot, the mod is completely free, all you need is time and side cutters, and it makes a difference.
Click to expand...


Cheer's mate.

i'm hoping to order some rovers this week.... If the boss pays me :x
 
I got some Integy Universal Drive Shaft Rebuild Kits at the rc shop the other day in an attempt to stop breaking cvd pins. after breaking another one I put in an Integy pin and did the heat shrink thing and so far so good and I've been using it like normal but not for very long yet..... We'l see how it goes....
 
So the other day I got longer bolts for the upper mounts on the 4-link, To outboard the upper arms too the outside of the mounting plate. This is in am attempt to fight the torque twist.

It's has changed the pinion angle, Aim's abouve the gearbox not at it now.

It seams like it's binding some were but I can't find any were, were it is. Is it just me??
IMG_0488.jpg

IMG_0489.jpg
 
I spent ages today looking for binding ANYWERE and EVERYWERE and couldn't find any so I changed the front 4-link to the same as the rear and there is n binding.

Pics -

IMG_0498.jpg

IMG_0497.jpg

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IMG_0495.jpg

IMG_0494.jpg


Sitting on flat ground -

IMG_0493.jpg

IMG_0491.jpg

IMG_0490.jpg
 
Ok so my front steering has Really slowed down. Is the servo toasted/on its way out?

All my electrics glitches a bit. I've got a "Glitch Buster" in and some run's it doesn't glitch at all and other run's all it does is glitch. That's on my own and around other's, Glitch and non Glitch I that cause the arial is wrong? Cause it's cheap stuff? Something else?
 
Ben,,are you running a bec on your rig for the steering servo/s...I did a search in your thread for "bec" and it came back with no result....these rigs need a bec for the steering...otherwise it will eventually fry the servo/s due to the fact that they require high amps and a lot of volts to work properly.

The glitching is radio intereferrence in your radio,,,you really need 2.4ghz for these rigs now a days,,,the DX3E is what I use and its got a good purchase price.
 
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