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Wroncho Baja Bug - Wraith, SCX10, Yeti

bilinvic

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
2,257
Location
Victoria, BC
It’s time for a new rig in my collection, but this time I didn’t want to buy a kit or RTR. This build consists of all the components sourced individually. I have a couple of Wraiths and an SCX10 and I love driving either platform, so I decided this one would be a combination of both the Wraith and SCX10 with a little bit of Yeti thrown in. AR60 axles with an SCX10 frame with 1.9 rims and rubber. I know this idea is not new, so I thought I would build it with some items that aren’t predominantly used with Wroncho builds; The Scale Shop (TSS) SCXHR Chassis and Blue Monkey RC Yeti Trailing Arms.

As for drivetrain, I am a huge fan of sensored brushless systems and I have always used Tekin motors but I have read so many good things about Holmes Hobbies TrailMaster BL PRO 540 3100kv motor that I decided I would try that power plant out. A Castle Creations MMP is my preferred ESC. I figured that while I am ordering the HH motor, I might as well try out their new TrailMaster BLS HV400 Servo too. With 572 oz/in @ 8.4v, there more than enough power to steer this machine. I set the CC BEC to 8.2v so I’m not maxing the servo out.

A new Spawn Wraith transmission will be transferring the power to the drive shafts. I chose this transmission because it came with the 32p 56t dual slipper spur set-up (12t pinion at this time prior to testing). Robinson Racing One Piece Steel Bottom Diff Gear Wraith and Hardened Steel Idler Gear was added to beef up the tranny.

I have used JunFac (G Made) drive shafts on previous BL motor builds and they have never given me any grief and I like their smaller size. I used G Made Hardened Universal Shaft 120-155mm w/ 5mm hole for the rear and a regular Wraith length shaft for the front. I replace the dual short grub screws with a long MIP style screw pins.

Axles are Vanquish AR60 Wraith Curries, with their new centered pumpkin rear axle. Axial’s Heavy Duty Bevel Gears are used; 38t/13t front and 43t/13t rear with Hot Racing Differential Lockers. All bearings are Team Fast Eddy. The front Currie also features Vanquish Wraith Panhard kit, Titanium Tie Rod & Drag Link, Wraith VVD V1-HD 4mm Stubs, Wraith Scale Chubs; Silver and Wraith Steering Knuckles; Silver.

The Scale Shop’s SCXHR frame is perfectly suited for a Wroncho style application. The upper link mounts are elevated which is where most folks have issues using the stock frame rails. I’m using an SCX10 skid plate with the transmission orientated with the outputs on the same side as the offset front pumpkin. I replaced the rear plastic H brace with STRC’s billet Aluminum H brace. The front CMS /bumper mount is Vanquish. I modified a Vanquish side CMS servo mount w/Panhard mount to fit the SCXHR chassis in the position I required for the Panhard link to be at.

I was originally planning on a dual batteries, one on each RC4WD Tough Armor Side Steel Sliders but the trailing arm mounting points foiled that plan. Plan B is a typical forward cross-mount using the SCX10 aluminum battery tray providing structural integrity to the Wraith plastic battery “basket”. Yeah Racing blue anodized servo mounts secure the battery mount to the frame. I custom cut and fabricated the ESC mount from ABS sheet. I also had to fabricate two aluminum plates to provide a solid mounting base for the rear trailing arms.
The SCXHR chassis is perfect for trailing arms because it provides plenty of clearance for the extra suspension movement gained by using this type of suspension. I used Blue Monkey RC Yeti length machine aluminum trailing arms with long RPM link ends forward and Traxxas short link ends on the rear section. The remainder of the links are Vanquish Wraith Titanium links with both RPM and Traxxas long and short link ends. I used the lower VP links for the upper rear links. I have been very impressed with the performance of Proline’s Slash rear Powerstroke shocks on my Wraith, so I used them on this build in conjunction with their spring kit. At this time, the fronts utilize the blue stripe lower and green stripe upper springs and the rears utilize the green stripe lower and the yellow stripe upper springs. Team Associated silicone shock fluid, 35w front, 40w rear. The end result is a silky smooth suspension that will carry the extra weight this machine has been gaining!

For now, I’m using Vanquish 1.9 Method wheels with RC4WD Super Swamper IROK tires. I have ordered new SSD Assassin Beadlock Wheels; Grey and Pitbull Growler AT/Extra tires which will likely replace the mock-up rolling stock.

Speaking of mock-up, this is the current state as shown in the photos below. Once everything is finalized, the whole rig will be disassembled because the bare steel frame needs to be prepped and painted. At this time, there’s no Loctite or grease used and all the hardware is not matched. I have a new RC Screwz Wraith Stainless Steel hardware kit waiting for re-assembly.

I’m still unsure of which bumpers I am going to be using. The rear bumper is currently a RC Rock Armor Slayer Bumper but will likely be replaced because of its heavy weight. I have the following bumpers on order from RPP to try out: RC4WD Tough Armor Front Light bar Bumper, RC4WD Tough Armor Stubby Front Bumper and AXIAL SCX10 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited C/R Poison Spyder Front Bumper.
From the start of this build, I have been unsure of which body will be used although I had a couple in mind. I purchased the HPI 1979 Ford F150 Super Cab body to suit the 13.75” wheelbase and it does look great, but the front and rear overhangs were too much for pure rock crawling and I would have had to extend the rear frame rails for a bumper. The next body that I had mind was Proline’s new Axial Yeti Baja Bug body. So, I ended up buying one of these too….and it appears this will be the body I use. The wheelbase is great and there’s essentially no front or rear overhangs. I could also use the Yeti’s chassis/roll bars/interior under the bug body, although the extra weight up higher isn’t desirable, so I likely won’t. I’ll just tint the windows instead!

Anyhow, this is where I am at now and will continue to update this thread as this Wroncho Bug progresses.

“Constructive criticism is welcomed”.

I think we need to come up with a new name that incorporates a Wraith, SCX10 and Yeti so that the diehard Wroncho guys don’t get upset!!!!

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Wow. That is amazing. Great job. I'm definitely going to have to take some notes for a future build myself.
 
Thanks all. I'm just waiting on more parts to arrive from RPP and then I can complete the mock-up and get this rig put together for it's virgin crawl!!! Can't wait.
 
The final mock-up was completed and so far, everything is turning out excellent.

Received some more parts in the mail:

Axial 5 LED Light String (White LED)
Axial Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set
Axial 3 Port High Output LED Controller
Axial SCX10 Body Mount Parts Tree
Axial 7X60mm Post Grey (2)
Pit Bull Growler AT/Extra 1.9 Tires & 2-Stage Foam (2)
RC4WD Tough Armor Stubby Front Bumper to fit Axial SCX10
RC4WD Tough Armor Front Lightbar Bumper for Axial SCX10 (Ver 2)
SSD 1.9” Assassin Beadlock Wheels (Grey) (2)
Gear Head RC 2.0 mm Precision Nutdriver
SSD M2 Scale Hex Bolts (20)
RC Lights RX Pass-Thru
Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited C/R Poison Spyder Front Bumper

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I stripped the whole chassis down so that the frame could be prepped for paint. I used OEM Ford Sterling Grey Metallic for the frame. Gave the paint a couple of days to dry and commenced re-assembly.

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The jack was a gift I received years ago and I just recently remembered I had it! I'm not sure where it was purchased.
 
May want to rethink your rear link mount location at the frame, it's going to cause some crappy handling and acceleration characteristics. See if you can move it down any.
 
Could you elaborate on how the handling would be worse? I'm not worried about acceleration because this is being built for crawling. I have thought about the upper and lower links being on the same horizontal plane and the bench test articulation feels the same as my trailing arm Wraith. I'm sincerely interested on how you feel this would not be good.
 
I have an scx10 with trailing arms and have been experimenting with how the frame attachment point affects handling. With the arms mounted high like that it will make the rear axle want to walk under the truck when climbing or accelerating quickly.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423605754.122554.jpg

This is the arm angle at full droop on mine. Take a look at how flat the arms are on the yeti and twin hammers.
 
Let me end with, feel free to try it out, I'm just trying to give you an idea what to expect with it setup like you have.
 
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