Yeti XL kit build 6s

[slowe2411]

Hello all! New to posting in forums so bare with me. Anyway i have been reading alot on your forum and would like to share my latest project build. Quick background; AE rc10 was my first rc in the 80's for indoor carpet. Through the years i have done everything from nitro to electric, water to air including helo and drones. I built one of the first 1/8 conversion tmaxx in the nineties with a .28, spool, paddles, etc. I have also raced a number of newer 1/10 and 1/8 scales on lipo so i am no stranger to speed and wrenching. Current land based list of vehicles: Mugen mbx7 eco with Tekin, Losi 22 and 22.4, AE sc10 2wd, AE B44.2, Baja 5b, and an Axial Wraith with billet axles and links with 35turn brushed on 2s. I haven't had a "fast basher" since the nineties messing with tmax and savage stuff. I am stepping back from racing a bit and just want to play around with something stupid fast and fun. After much research, i narrowed it down to a lst2xle and the yeti xl. I chose the xl for a number of reasons but one of the main ones is that it is so much lighter than anything comparable. Seems to me this is a huge advantage. I also attribute most of the reported problems are likely due to driver error (on throttle landings, front diff "diff out", etc. Just watch all the vids of torque twist lifting rft and proceed donut tire). Anyway after getting much good info from this forum, i decided i would like to share my experiences of this monster machine as i build and run it. My kit arrives tomorrow ams when I get enough posts i will share pics and vids of progress.
Build specs:
Yeti XL kit
Mamba x 2200kv
Hitech 7955ti servo
Futaba fhss
Hr motor mount
Hr steering rack
Hr rear diff brace
Max Amps 6000mah 3s x 2
Fast eddy sealed bearings -anyone try ceramic?
All 8awg superworm wiring with 6.5mm gold polarized connectors
This is what i am starting with unless i am missing something important. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. I am not looking for bullet proof, but i do want bullet speed.
More to come!



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[Deckard]

Sounds to me like you'll be in good shape. I would recommend the GPM/Dhawk pinion spacers, but if you order them now you'll have to wait for them to arrive before you can build the gear boxes. That wouldn't be fun at all. I would just building it ASAP and if a plastic spacer melts (they probably will on 6s), you can replace them then. However, I am not the most patient person in the world. It's cost me money and give me lots of headaches, but I do have fun.

Have fun building, bashing, and wrenching and keep us posted on the process (and any carnage).

 

[slowe2411]

Ahh yes, i did forget to order those.... i too am all about instant gratification. If i do melt the plastic spacers, what other collateral damage should i expect?

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[Barndog Racing]

Wow sounds like quite a machine very nice! "thumbsup"

 

[slowe2411]

Thanks! Gotta get your body kit too.
FYI i just saw on RPM's website that they measured stock hinge pins are undersized. By sourcing correct nominal size pins, 3 and 4mm, will remove up to. 004" slop. Another .004" by using their arms. Plus lifetime guarantee against breakage, sounds like a bargain. I will be adding these arms along with their shock tower.
Anyone running shielded ceramic bearings? Any issues with mud/water/big jumping? I've used in racing but this rig is just pure beast mode bashing.

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[84yoda]

I used stock hinge pins and they were tight in the arms. Im also running there shock towers, more flex then stock but if it breaks then im covered. Im going to add shock tower braces to it here soon.

 

[Capwn]

Do not get the 7955 servo, My YXL ate one after about 2 weeks, The first gear in that servo is NOT Ti. And is prone to breaking..
Get the 7950, Or nab one of those new Holmes Hobbies HV500 servos ...


Little tidbit I learned from the thread about that Holmes Hobbies servo, Is that NO company has solid Titanium gears in thier servos. They are Ti plated brass or aluminum . Shocker right??

The HV500 is 7075 hardened tool steel gears, I cant wait to install the one I ordered, Gotta wait for one of the three 7950's I'm running to give out tho, After the abuse the one in my YXL has taken however, I dont really know what it would take to kill one, Or when I'll have a chance to try my HH HV500..

Supershafty still has 2 in stock, I ordered mine Friday after work, and it was at my house Monday after work, How I don't know ?

http://supershafty.com/servos/443-holmes-hobbies-hv500-servo.html
These are the last two until the second batch gets made.


EDIT: also, as an electrician, I always recommend upsizing wire, But in this case, 10 gauge wire is fine, and hard enough to work with , You are going to be in for a headache going 8 gauge, an upgrade that is truly pointless

 

[84yoda]

I can't believe SS still has 2 in stock. I cant wait to run my 500 as well but its not going in the xl.

 

[Deckard]

Collateral on the pinion spacer melting can be pretty major. There is a post on this forum from someone that melted theirs and it pretty much destroyed the rear housing, pinion, and bevel gears. However, that doesn't seem typical.

 

[tonyfalkon]

So fast and something close to bullet proof,

first ditch the HR steering rack and get the DHawk/GPM instead, aluminum version of the OEM.

If you have no qualms to using steel gears get the Savox SB-2274SG-TE's Ty Tessman version they are only $5 apart same price as the 7955 but faster, torque-er, purple but not titanium.
If you go with the savox also get the CC BEC pro and link if you don't already have it and wire the servo directly to the BEC for uninterrupted ESC power flow and prevent "brown outs".

On the drivetrain get the AX31339 spiral cut version of the AX31053 and for even faster results disengage front differential.

On suspension get AX31252 rear sway bar HR YEX311F for the front or other aftermarket sway bars you prefer, helps plant the tires to the ground also helps to minimize the torque twist.
Shock bladders like the ASC89351 or any 16 mm shock bladders but this is personal preference of course, for me, I find bladders more consistent in both jumping and speeding.

For speed runs you might wanna lower your suspension by 10-15 mm, there are a lot of instructions on Utube, put on wheely bars (no aftermarket direct fit yet) it would help a lot specially if you disengage the front differential.
Get the RC8T 89329 for the rear and RC8T 89330 for the front, wider front width stabilizes minor steering corrections in straightaways. Its a direct fit on the kit version stub and rear axle.
Stiffer shocks and thicker shock oil depending on your driving style.

Tower brace and tower bridge to stiffen the OEM towers or if you have money to burn YXL CF shock towers (FF swears by them) a stiff tower ensures that the shocks do their job efficiently.

Get SAVAGE X Adjustable Upper Suspension Arms to replace OEM front upper arm it helps the lower arms from twisting specially if you decide to get the RPM lower arms.

And finally all metal bushing balls 6.8 mm size, drag link aluminum stiffeners upper and lower and differential fluid should you decide to put thicker fluid to lock it or get the HR differential locker.

If you've noticed I left out rear driveshafts the jury is still out on that one, RR Yeti Gen 3 slipper units (you definitely need hardened steel gears) and a few other little trinkets that in my and only my opinion depends on the budget of the build and may or may not have little or no direct connection to the overall impact for speed and reliability, for wheels and tires I'm still experimenting on slicks. I'll leave that for others whose had direct and or exhaustive experience using them.

 

[Jayn]

I Built what I thought were the best diffs without breaking the bank... then promptly traded my Yeti to KX450 in Oregon. Maybe he will chime in on how it is running.

I am not sure on the new spiral cut gears, but with the standard gears I ran 3 bearings and a ton of shims to get it tight. I think I ended up with six in the front and five in the rear. I would say this is better than the plastic while waiting for your DHawk spacer, even if you decide to go that way eventually.



I also shimmed the diffs in the bulkhead and the rear axle housing.



I used 1Million weight in the rear and 500,000 in the front. Wanted to stay open to turn, but stop the flex balooning and diffing out you describe.

Get a Castle link and crank up the punch control, turn off the drag brake, and lower brake and reverse power.

Boom, fast and not breaking stuff!

 

[keebler1510]

As far as tires I've been using proline road rage 3.8s, since my yeti sees more street and speed runs than general dirt bashing. These tires are a bit smaller so I stepped up the pinion to 19t. Currently experimenting using lucas extra heavy duty gear grease inside the diff and the housing front and rear. Turning kinda sucks but it kinda sucked before too so I don't care much. Rear shocks are laid out last bottom hole and first top hole with heavy weight oil, front shocks i dont remember been a while since built. With the current setup it's very fast and still has plenty of torque, on 6s when rolling into the throttle properly all 4 tires will balloon about an inch but won't pull the tires off the ground. So far this is my favorite setup. I need to get a better gps than using my phone as sacrifice, so no good speed recordings yet.

Good luck in your build.

 

[Mexxan]

Deckare do you know if the pinion spacer is Dhawk only or a GPM part - can't seem to find on AsiaTees.

Your gonna love the XL - it's joint first place a long side my Losi 5ive T and I haven't even jumped it yet.

 

[slowe2411]

Awesome. I sure appreciate all the info. I can only find the heavy duty gears on tower. Don't they come on the kit now? Guess I'll find out tomorrow since i got confirmation of delivery.
I'll try the hr link since it's on its way but why dhawk is better?
7075 is aluminum. Tool steel is usually a letter and number ie h -13. My hi tech 7955 works well in my Wraith but that only goes 3 or 4mph but good torque and response. Hopefully your tool steel gears are surface hardened only or else prone to shock failure (this is why ti is good for steering servo gear)
Anyway will post some unboxing and build tomorrow.
Oh yeah ordered the link to for punch etc.
More to come. ..

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[tonyfalkon]

It's not better material wise probably the same as the HR one, I have both HR was first and 2 sessions later somehow screw came loose and lost the bushing and it was hard to find another one with the same size. It was a long downtime I couldn't bring myself to buy another set just to get bushings and by the time HR was selling the bushings I have already bought the DHawk one. Then later I realize the only part I really needed was the steering rack, the OEM servo saver were actually good enough for my intended purpose. Some bashers really like the whole aluminum package, for me I just wanna replace the weak link, keep the spending low and save it for the other parts that really need the upgrade.

I suggested the Ty Tessman savox servo simply because as you mentioned you wanted to build a faster basher it has a 0.08 speed @ 7.4 v with 25 kg-cm torque, and on speed runs a quick responding servo for those minor steering corrections really helps. How fast were you planing to go ?? Titanium is tougher than most materials and if your speed goal is under 55 MPH then the 7955 is a sound choice. Don't get me wrong Hitec servos are great I use the 7954 on mine, my only qualms is the shaking and it would take 2 shaking events for Hitec to change out the boards they usually just resets them when you send them out for repairs.

There are a lot of info's here regarding ESC tweaks but before you even mess with it might I suggest that you try the default settings first. You have bashed with regular 1/10's 8th's and 5th's before but the YXL is a different beast, it has its own learning curve. Its like a supersized 1/8 can't call it a 7th either because of the constraints of the dimensions and the parts it came with, some previous owners are glad they got rid of it and others wished they spent more time learning it. There are no in between either you have the patience to learn and grow with what you have or move on to the next big thing, did I forget to mention that this is a potential money pit ??

I hope you have a great time building, playing and holding on to it, and if in the future you plan on ditching don't hesitate to put me on your PM list I got a list of YXL builds in the works and I'm always hunting for abandoned YXL's. Good Luck with your build.

 

[Fordfreak95]

I didn't read this whole thread so if someone covered this sorry. My time belongs to my job lately dang it all...
Main thing on a 6s truck...mine has been 6s since day one..I have Maxamps 6000xl lipos..I killed a set of Venom 5000mah 3s 50c lipos.....is to get the Dhawk bulk up front and the Vanquish rear out back. You will melt the rear of the stock rear housing...not a if...it's a when. Do different bearings in the entire RC. I use Boca green and orange sealed..Use punch control..80%. No drag brakes...And do not use a 2200kv motor. Get a lower KV motor...Tekin 1550kv is a good one...I ran that for a good while. I run a TP power 1570kv now and really like it. It's geared for 40mph but you can gear it up to go faster...TP motors are priced very well and the quality is tough to beat. I am ordering another one for my 1/5 build tonight. A 2200kv motor at 6s voltages is going to spin that motor at 55,400+ rpms. Now thats fun the first few times but it breaks so much stuff that it's not worth it.

 

[slowe2411]

I am not really trying for speed. I want to put some jumping vids together at the local bmx track. I also will be installing fpv and go pro to share the fun. Aerials with the phantom 3 etc. I am a race at heart (drag cars, road cars, hydroplanes, and rc) so i am trying to replicate baja 1000 feel from fpv. Sticking with 2200kv for now since in racing always run high revs.

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[Kx450]

Jayln build thread has a good set up for jumping
Shocks diffs springs I have his yeti and I love his set
Up on it he did some really trick stuff

 

[slowe2411]

Must've looked out the window 100 times. Does a watched ups truck ever deliver? Just sayin'...
[emoji51]

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[Deckard]

The UPS guy is probably enjoying his new Yeti XL. (hahaha, that was mean, sorry). I couldn't be a UPS guy, I would never deliver packages from Axial or Tower Hobbies.

Must've looked out the window 100 times. Does a watched ups truck ever deliver? Just sayin'...
[emoji51]

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