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Yeti XL kit build 6s
- Thread starter slowe2411
- Start date
Barndog Racing
RCC Addict
Enjoy!
pro mod steve
Rock Crawler
Let the fun begin. Watch the build manual closely as when I built my kit there were screws and bearings misprinted and labeled wrong in the parts pictures.
Started into build and hit first roadblock, but more on that in a minute. First off, initial impressions;
Quality over all looks very nice. I was suprised to see how large the difs are compared to my 1/8th scale race machines. With that said, it is obvious to me from an engineering pov, that the plastic spacer issue on the pinion is directly related to the lack of crossectional area in the housing bore. That area is very thin all the way around. The load on the pinion is pushing out against the housing. Deflection=failure. I think the plastic spacer should be OK if this area beefed up. I will look at fabricating some type of clamshell stiffener.
Also i spent some time radiusing all the sharp edges on the bulkheads to reduce pontential stress risers.
I think this will improve durability. If it breaks i will replace with rpm. I also found a fair number of burrs on critical surfaces. I found bearing installation and operation much smoother after removing all surface imperfections.
So anyway, i get to this point when i realize that i have 2 ax31052-1's(front diff carrier, inbound side). I'm thinking ok cool they gave me an extra diff case. ..
But then the light bulb kicks on. I got 2 of those and none of the ax31052-2's(second half of front diff carrier). I'm not sure I've ever been missing a piece from a plastic tree only to have it replaced with the wrong one. Oh well, I'm sure tower will send me a freebie but i won't be able to wait that long [emoji13] so off on a hunt at the lhs tomorrow! Oh well, i didn't want to spend all night building this rig so... [emoji6]
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Quality over all looks very nice. I was suprised to see how large the difs are compared to my 1/8th scale race machines. With that said, it is obvious to me from an engineering pov, that the plastic spacer issue on the pinion is directly related to the lack of crossectional area in the housing bore. That area is very thin all the way around. The load on the pinion is pushing out against the housing. Deflection=failure. I think the plastic spacer should be OK if this area beefed up. I will look at fabricating some type of clamshell stiffener.
Also i spent some time radiusing all the sharp edges on the bulkheads to reduce pontential stress risers.
I think this will improve durability. If it breaks i will replace with rpm. I also found a fair number of burrs on critical surfaces. I found bearing installation and operation much smoother after removing all surface imperfections.
So anyway, i get to this point when i realize that i have 2 ax31052-1's(front diff carrier, inbound side). I'm thinking ok cool they gave me an extra diff case. ..
But then the light bulb kicks on. I got 2 of those and none of the ax31052-2's(second half of front diff carrier). I'm not sure I've ever been missing a piece from a plastic tree only to have it replaced with the wrong one. Oh well, I'm sure tower will send me a freebie but i won't be able to wait that long [emoji13] so off on a hunt at the lhs tomorrow! Oh well, i didn't want to spend all night building this rig so... [emoji6]
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Deckard
Rock Crawler
If you're in the north Dallas area I can give you my spares. I also have an extra set of the GPM pinion spacers.
I wish i was. Im michigan. Thanks for the offer though.
Tower and axial are both sending replacements. I went to lhs today ams found one anyway along with an rpm shock tower. Snagged that too. Needed some grinding to fit which i was suprised. Also it does not capture the bulkhead like the stock piece. It looks like all the load is on the screws. I will be posting a video to show. Here's some pics of it anyway.
I have finished the front end and I am suprised at how little slop there is. After reading others comments, i was expecting it to be bad. It is comparable to my mugen. I do have the hr rack but still...
Was assembling trans when came across small issue. Back of slipper plate hits trans housing once slipper is tight. It would have worn in but would definitely have caused debris inside case. The slipper itself is fairly thick so will file down to gain clearance.
Ended up grinding about. 02" off the ribs on the slipper plate. I suppose i could have shimmed it also but this way i have less parts.
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Tower and axial are both sending replacements. I went to lhs today ams found one anyway along with an rpm shock tower. Snagged that too. Needed some grinding to fit which i was suprised. Also it does not capture the bulkhead like the stock piece. It looks like all the load is on the screws. I will be posting a video to show. Here's some pics of it anyway.
I have finished the front end and I am suprised at how little slop there is. After reading others comments, i was expecting it to be bad. It is comparable to my mugen. I do have the hr rack but still...
Was assembling trans when came across small issue. Back of slipper plate hits trans housing once slipper is tight. It would have worn in but would definitely have caused debris inside case. The slipper itself is fairly thick so will file down to gain clearance.
Ended up grinding about. 02" off the ribs on the slipper plate. I suppose i could have shimmed it also but this way i have less parts.
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Last edited by a moderator:
tonyfalkon
Quarry Creeper
You're actually lucky its the back half you got, you can continue building around that, you may not be able to mount the front differential or connect the front output shaft but you can build it back to front. Its better than missing the back half, coz then the entire front drive train not to mention the center driveshaft won't be attached at all, you can at least attach and mock up the front. BTW when you do mock up/assmble the front and I have seen this on a lot of YXL builds make sure you screw the 4 screws at the back of the front clip first not all the down leave about 1/4 before you screw down the 9 in the front. I hear this is not an issue withe aluminum front clips but with the OEM when done backwards stripping the plastic standoffs is almost certain.
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