Maslin's 1:1 Trail Finder

[maslin]

Trying to stay with the 15s, 31 10.5 15 seems to be the only option. There's a 9.5 TSL, but that's a bit excessive. Interested to see how they actually measure, those truck tires are just at 31" with no tread left. The "33s" on my Xterra are more like 31.2 with weight on them.

[maslin]

Successful shop day. Started with the thermostat, I did have one, but it was popped in to one of the overheat clips We'll see how it goes, I don't think it actually overheated. Heated up properly with the new thermostat, got a bit more heat but I'm thinking the core is clogged.

Tore out a couple feet of vacuum hose, wiring and piping. Pulled the cap off to check the contacts, pushed on the button and it stuck all the way in Back to Autozone for a cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Converted over to the Canadian evap diagram, starts right up and the clunk/slam off throttle is gone. The high idle vacuum solenoid isn't hooked up at all now, must have been getting in the way. The only thing I didn't hook up that looked important was on the head side of the carb, gold plate with a nipple on it. No idea what that did, hope it wasn't important. Diagram says it's "hot idle compensation" or "thermostatic valve"



Seriously impressed with how it's running, I doubt all that crap was hooked up right any way. Still have an exhaust leak, without the air tubes I might as well get some headers, the pacesetters are only like $175.

Still have to tackle the seats, one step at a time.

[maslin]

Reading about how that carb works I'm not surprised it was doing weird stuff. The truck is a "50 state" cali legal model. There's and o2 sensor that monitors the exhaust, if it's too rich it can pull fuel from the carb, that's why it seemed to stick with very little engine braking, then it would snap off and clunk. 1983 computers aren't the best thing out there

If you switch to a Weber carb the wiring can be stripped down to a fuel shut off, electric choke, pressure/temp sensors, starter and alternator. Even with the Aisin carb there's a lot of junk that can go. I'll get there eventually.

[84yoda]

Try flushing the heater core with water. A lot of people and me including worked wonders doing that.

[maslin]

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Meant to blow it out when I had the thermostat out but got ahead of myself. The combination of short throw heater levers in a long throw dash plate may have damaged the valve as well, we'll see.

Ordered some really really nice Pacesetter headers for $150 They list 2 models for an 83 4x4, so I hope they fit. If it's the other model, they're $180

[calcagno45]

Bravo! Had one on my 94 but wouldn't know it...

[maslin]

I'm expecting big horsepower gains

Fixing the exhaust leak and filling the hole in the firewall for the speedo cable will be a huge improvement. Also waiting on new side mirrors and a left outside window seal. The seal rolls over and binds on the glass, no wonder the knob was broken off.

On my way to 3 days at West Point for work, I'll be happy to get back and work on the truck this weekend. By the time I fix the heat I won't need it

[Correll]

Amazon has these Falken Wildpeaks at 136$ a Tire prime for 30x9.50R15. 31's will be sweet but will sap more pow pow from you. Just saying Daniel...

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by maslin

Reading about how that carb works I'm not surprised it was doing weird stuff. The truck is a "50 state" cali legal model. There's and o2 sensor that monitors the exhaust, if it's too rich it can pull fuel from the carb, that's why it seemed to stick with very little engine braking, then it would snap off and clunk. 1983 computers aren't the best thing out there

If you switch to a Weber carb the wiring can be stripped down to a fuel shut off, electric choke, pressure/temp sensors, starter and alternator. Even with the Aisin carb there's a lot of junk that can go. I'll get there eventually.

My 1981 shortbed 4x4 4 speed (later converted to 5spd) was a great truck, but it too started running not so well. Toyota's early emissions stuff is actually very good, AAP, HAC are good stuff, the only thing I didn't like was the air injection pump. If it's all hooked up properly minus the air pump, it runs like a champ with good mieage, power, low emissions, runs practically standing on it's tail or on it's side lol. Yes, I tested all that lol. Headers would be nice with good quiet turbo style muffler will get best power and mileage without the annoying exhaust hum. AAP (auxiliary accelerator pump) really helps acceleration. HAC (high altitude compensation) is an ingenious way of leaning the carburetor mixture at higher altitudes by bleading small amount of air into the throttle body of the carb, no more choking, stuttering, or black smoke in the mountains, engine won't load up and die on steep climbs or off camber sittuations either. Set your carb float at low side of the site glass for best off-roading.

Very common problem is the 'computer' on the driver's kick panel in the cab needs re-soldered. Years of moisture and vibration cause the main plug (to engine wiring harness) through-hole pins in the pcb (printed circuit board) to become cold solder joints. Best thing I did to mine was remove the board (be careful of ESD) flux all solder points on the board (especially the main plug pins!) with non-corrosive flux, solder all joints with good soldering iron and flux core solder. When it's all cooled, scrub it off with dishwashing soap, water and a toothbrush, dry with towel and allow to dry until next day just in case. Reinstall and watch the engine run 1000 times better. HTH and nice Yota!

BTW 31x10.50x15 is a great size tire for stockish Toyotas, heavy duty actual truck tire that's easy to find and relatively inexpensive, it's what I ran on mine for first year or so.

Sloppy shifter knob is the two shifter lever location pins in tranny tower wearing out slots in shifter pivot ball at bottom of lever. Weld them up and grind straight, square, flat grooves or buy new shift lever. Also replace the nylon pivot ball piece that goes under the ball in the tower.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Yes the right simply goes to the cowl, i think the drivers side does too, I know it did on my 76 and 78 but that was the previous generation. It's been a few years since I tore down a first gen dash.

Do you have all the a/c ducting under the dash? Some of that stuff is crazy hard to find especially the flex tube between the a/c core and heater core. I should still have one.

Edit: the unknown knob could very go to the idle up solenoid. On later generations there is a box with a knob on top of the heater box under the dash that controls the idle speed via a controlled vacuum leak. That early carb setup might be a vacuum leak too.

Fun fact, on efi toyota that huge mess of vacuum lines and solenoids is for cold startup. Eliminate all of it but the cold start injector solenoid and run manifold vacuum to the charcoal canister and fuel pressure regulator and it will idle up when cold like a carbureted engine. That's a lot of shit to control the idle speed.

X2, and iirc that unknown knob controls idle up for AC.

FSM is a must, I always buy one for whatever I'm working on.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by calcagno45

235 is too skinny IMO, find some 31x10.5x15's or if you're going 16's look for some 265/75/16's. I started with Remington Mud Brutes in 265's before going 33's. Great tires and cheap.

X2, keep it at 33s max, it will drive and wheel better. I've run smaller and taller...31" is great DD and general use without regearing the axles, 33" is sweet spot, but then you'll be wanting dual transfer case or a Marlin 4.7 tcase gear set.

[maslin]

My unknown switch goes to a relay to turn the blower on. I'm thinking that Off and Low are shorted on the blower knob, so they just tied a relay in to kill it. Works fine, once I figured it out.

I'll be going with 31s. Not going to regear any time soon, and it does need to be driveable. The road from my house to town is 70mph, I can't be chugging along at 55.

Probably should have told the wife I ordered a header. Hard for the mailman to hide that one for me Back at it this weekend, sitting in the wonderful town of Newark waiting for my (hopefully not cancelled) flight.

[Correll]

If your going 31's, this is all I have for you. They actually add HP when you install them.

[maslin]

I like those a lot. Or maybe some 31 9.5 sweetness?



Btw, if I'm not at work tomorrow I'm somewhere in Utah. Still haven't left the great state of New Jersey

[WHITE-TRASH]

My friend is building a 2nd Gen 4runner and has a few parts rigs around. One of them has brand new 31" mall terrains on 15" wheels. I'm sure he'd let them go for very reasonable coin.

[maslin]

I do like the mall terrains. Driving to tricities will probably triple to cost of the tires though. They won't fit in the wife's patrocar, and the Nissan isn't exactly a highway cruiser. 27s are rolling along for now, plenty of other stuff to deal with.

The guy with the trucks I talked to a few weeks ago? If I'm heading that way I'll hit him up.

[WHITE-TRASH]

I'm headed to pick up seed spuds in dillon next week if that's the only issue.

[calcagno45]

What the fawk is a mall terrain?

[maslin]

(M)all terrain. Usually of the BFG flavor.

I'm several states closer to my headers, look like I'll be home around 2am. Every coffee shop in this damn airport is closed

[calcagno45]

I figured as such.

I have Firestone Destination ATs on my '11 Silveraydo. Rides good, quiet and has some bite. But we don't get that cold white shiz down here. They come in the 31x10.5-15 flavor, cheaply too.