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05-24-2008, 10:46 AM | #1 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
| HOW TO: Narrow TLT & Bruiser Axles
Here is a quick and easy way to narrow tlt axles with basic tools. Tools Req’d: A drill press with a vice makes this a lot easier but can be done with a drill and steady hand. .075” Drillbit (note: actually .078” on the calipers) 1/8” Drillbit Dremel with cutoff wheel. Parts Req’d: TLT axles 1 Pair TLT Axles C’s 1 Pair TLT Straight axle adapters First step: Modify the cases by cutting off the ends for the C’s and adapters and cutting the case (front and rear) on the side with the long axle shaft. You also need to remove the square bracing on the shortened side of the case so the C’s and adapters can slide over. Next you want to modify the diff casing and long axle shaft. The first picture below shows the original long shaft versus the finished one for the narrowed axle. You will want to shorten this shaft by cutting off the end along the old groove for the E-Clip. Now place the shortened shaft into the diff and mark the shaft where the new e-clip needs to be. To cut the groove for the new e-clip location I placed the shaft into my drill press and with a steady hand used the dremel to cut the groove while it was spinning. Make sure to check the depth for the clip with the original groove. Get it as close as you can so the e-clip fits tight. To drill the .075” hole through the diff case and axle shaft there are a couple of options. Just do whatever you feel you can be the most accurate with. The best option is to use a drill press with a vice on the base. Drill them at the same time (axle shaft installed in the case) so you know everything stays centered. To cut the groove for a retaining O-Ring I again mounted the part in the drill press and used the dremel while it was spinning. The cross pin I used is actually the part off the short shaft that will need to be cut off so you can install the long and short shafts into the diff. Just cut it off so its long enough to go all the way through the diff and long shaft. With all the internals done mount the Axle C’s and Straight axle adapters. The Axle C’s take some attention because you want to check for binding in the steering. Once you get it close mark the new holes and drill the cases for the C’s and adapters. A 1/8” bit works for this. |
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05-24-2008, 10:46 AM | #2 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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Bruiser axles: Started with an old set of bruiser axles and cleaned them up. Remove the hubs and knuckles from the front axle. Now remove the stub shafts. To get a narrower track width I am using tlt stub shafts that I will modify. They have identical cups compared to the bruiser stubshafts. Doesn’t hurt to install bearings either. Here is a comparison pic of the stub shafts in the bruiser knuckles. The shorter of the two is the TLT stub shaft. Next the TLT stub shaft needs to be modified to fit and narrow the track width. I drilled another hole in the shaft with a .075” drillbit. You will need to grind down the outer shaft support on the knuckle to accomplish a narrower track width and allow for the crosspin and 12mm hex. Here is a 1.9 hpi wheel installed on the bruiser axle. I used a spacer from my tlt CVD’s to keep the nut off the end of the threads on the tlt shaft. A few pics of the finished width for the front axle. And a pic under the old mountaineer I took the axles from. Rear axle next… First you need to narrow the housing. Comparison of the cut and uncut halfs. With the housing cut you can reinstall the axle shaft, but first cut the aluminum bearing/carrier so that you can drill a hole in the shaft for the cross pin. Next I drill the .075” hole for the TLT cross pin and 12mm hex. Since I didn’t have the correct 4mm die I found another temporary solution to mount the wheels. Simply cut a groove for a 4mm e-clip and used a tlt bushing as a spacer to mount the wheels. Last edited by Brandon; 05-24-2008 at 12:02 PM. |
05-24-2008, 10:47 AM | #3 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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Comparison pics will be here |
05-24-2008, 11:05 AM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: n.e. ohio
Posts: 433
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Wouldn't you be able to use hilift parts (diff housing and cross pin) to do this? Then you would only have to drill the axle shaft and no o-ring to hold it in. Just a thought...
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05-24-2008, 11:12 AM | #5 |
Sinking with the ship Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: El Capitan...sole survivor and sinking fast
Posts: 8,864
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Awesome write up Brandon I cant wait to see the bruiser axle one. -Mike |
05-24-2008, 11:33 AM | #6 | |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
| Quote:
Regarding the O-Ring. I haven't had to use it yet. The cross pin had to be pressed in with the .075" hole and its not going anywhere. Its nothing special. I am hardly modifying the housings. Although they are narrower than a standard tlt axle now | |
05-24-2008, 12:03 PM | #7 |
Im Brandon Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Colfax, CA
Posts: 8,156
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Bruiser axles up I will get some comparison pics later today. haven't taken them yet
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05-24-2008, 12:33 PM | #8 | |
Sinking with the ship Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: El Capitan...sole survivor and sinking fast
Posts: 8,864
| Quote:
I just got in some SICK bruiser axles adapters from Nick Rummy, I just need to get another front axle so I can convert the rear. I will have to start a thread then as well -Mike | |
05-24-2008, 12:42 PM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew.
Posts: 7,843
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Excellently executed how to thread. |
05-24-2008, 01:09 PM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: clarksburg
Posts: 2,009
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Ditto on the thread,Awesome!! I only wish I knew this before I got rid of me bruiser axles.(dohhhhh) And thanks for sharing!!! |
05-24-2008, 04:24 PM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
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this should be a sticky... |
05-24-2008, 04:50 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Angier N.C.
Posts: 387
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I agree, Sticky this, Very informative. Now I wish I had not sold my brusiers.
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05-24-2008, 06:48 PM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 606
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3rd'd, sticky this sumbitch.
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05-24-2008, 08:32 PM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Salinas gang central of california
Posts: 110
| Sticky mess
x4 |
05-24-2008, 10:06 PM | #15 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: rite here all along
Posts: 1,888
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OK, X5 fkrs...... sweet write up brando |
05-24-2008, 10:57 PM | #16 |
Oppan Gangnam Style Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Shingle Springs
Posts: 5,164
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Looks like a great write up Brandon! Only issue I see is the fact that the front Bruiser stub shaft is now only supported with one bearing. Always been an issue with me on this type of mod. Under moderate use with 1.9's, it should be fine but if you drive like me, it might not last long. I'm curious to see how it does! Simple solution would be to bring along a few extra bearings. |
05-25-2008, 09:51 AM | #17 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Dela-where?
Posts: 502
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about how much width did you shave off the tlt axle? looks like quite a bit! very clean, too. |
05-25-2008, 11:30 AM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Great Britain
Posts: 935
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Wow the tutorial on the Bruiser axles is great. Only problem no one sells complete bruiser axles anymore. It would almost work out cheaper to buy a set of RC4WD yota axles.
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05-25-2008, 08:06 PM | #19 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
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05-25-2008, 09:27 PM | #20 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Dela-where?
Posts: 502
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yeah, when i got home i looked at my axles and now i see. thanks! |
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