Tamiya CC-01: (Ideas and upgrades?)

[The Loyale]

Ok, so I am gonna be getting a CC-01 Land Cruiser by Dec 3rd and am looking for ideas of mods and or things that should be done to make it even better. Also some scale ideas and the like. This is the first time doing a scale rig and have never made anything (Bumpers, roll bars ect..) so thatll be another first.

I have a shock question so far, Ok RC4WD has 80mm and 90mm scale shocks with a internal spring. Will either of these work on the CC-01? Can I go with a little bit longer shock? Anyone know what mm the standard CC-01 shocks are?

I did buy what I think will be an upgrade, I bought a Futuba S3010 High-Torque Ball Bearing servo, Is there anything else I should swap out? Maybe a diffrent Turn motor? What comes with the CC-01? Should I use a 65t or what?

Just some help and ideas would be nice

-Tom

[romulus22]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-xc-cc01/

[The Loyale]

Thank you for that link, I can't beleive I missed thay entire section! Alot of good info there, just like the rest of the site.

-Tom

[Rckcrwlr]

Here is another option...

RC4wd Beowulf

[The Loyale]

Originally Posted by Rckcrwlr

Here is another option...

RC4wd Beowulf

Thats cool, I see they also make a Beowulf solid front axle aswell. What type of modification would I need to do to use the solid front axle? Or will it pretty much bolt right up? Sorry for my ignorance on this stuff, I'm learning.

-Tom

[Rckcrwlr]

Don't worry about it...

I honestly am not 100% sure what needs done. I will find out for you.

John

[The Loyale]

Thanks John, I will do some searching around as well. Maybe it would all be self explainitory if I was looking at the CC-01 (Don't have it yet)

Another thing I am wondering is, you guys use Futuba componets - correct? What do you do about the Antena? Also what do you do about power? On the other Tamiyas I have I use a Batt pack for the power to the wheels and then I use 4 AAs in one of those plastic 4 pack things and plug that into the receiver so I have power for steering (This helps save juice so all the power for the battery pack it used for the wheels and not the steering) But from what I see, you guys do something diffrent, what? I'm kinda tired of those 4 AAs cause if they get wet nothing responds, plus when your done playing with the car you have to pop one battery out so they don't drain.

Maybe the XC/CC is set up diffrent power wise then say the Clod or Brat?

Yea I know, alot of questions Haha

[Rckcrwlr]

Originally Posted by The Loyale

Thanks John, I will do some searching around as well. Maybe it would all be self explainitory if I was looking at the CC-01 (Don't have it yet)

OK...here is the deal for the front axle. It is only offered as a match for the rear if you want to use it for another project. You need to go with the IPS up front and only add the rear.

[The Loyale]

What does IPS stand for?

Ok, thanks for the info on the axles!

So here is another question, should I change motors? Dump the Tamiya 540 and go with a rc4wd 540 65t or 80t? Whats better? I know the 80t will be slower then the 65t, but is there any real benefit between the two? Also what about this BEC I read about? So this eliminates what battery pack? Do you still keep the 7.2 NiMH? Just random questions I have.

Also, any word on how long fully extended XC/CC-01 shocks are? I'm thinking of using the 80 or 90mm internal spring shocks that rc4wd offers if they are close to the stock shock length, if they arn't - can I use slighty longer shocks?

And again, I am sorry for these questions (Maybe these have been covered time and time again or they are just green questions) I just want to do this right the first time and get everything I need now so I don't have to tear into it right away to swap something out with a better part.

-Tom

[pantablo]

Originally Posted by The Loyale

Thats cool, I see they also make a Beowulf solid front axle aswell. What type of modification would I need to do to use the solid front axle? Or will it pretty much bolt right up? Sorry for my ignorance on this stuff, I'm learning.

-Tom

I'm in the midst of doing the swap, but not done.
SAS cc-01 build

I used the Beowulf rear axle as well but it uses the same internals as the stock rear cc-01 axle. theoretically you could just buy the front and install that alone, keeping your stock rear axle. They'd look the same though.
There are easier ways to do solid front and rear axles though, lol.

So here is another question, should I change motors? Dump the Tamiya 540 and go with a rc4wd 540 65t or 80t? Whats better? I know the 80t will be slower then the 65t, but is there any real benefit between the two? Also what about this BEC I read about? So this eliminates what battery pack? Do you still keep the 7.2 NiMH? Just random questions I have.

Also, any word on how long fully extended XC/CC-01 shocks are? I'm thinking of using the 80 or 90mm internal spring shocks that rc4wd offers if they are close to the stock shock length, if they arn't - can I use slighty longer shocks?

You don't need to swap out the motor but you'll find its way too fast for crawling on rocks and such. May not be an issue for you but for me it was and I swapped in a 55t in one and a 65t in another that I have. That was still too fast for me so I added a rc4wd 4:1 gear reduction and its perfect for the type of driving I do and terrain I have. Adding the gear reduction unit (GRU) will necessitate modifying the chassis a bit and moving the battery a bit too.
Here's what one of mine look like with a 55t and a GRU. I only had to turn the battery on its side and cut open the chassis about 1"x3/4" to accommodate the longer motor unit.

Here's a video of my other one. The green LR3 at the beginning is one of my cc-01's. Has stock everything except 4:1 gru and 65t motor. Nice and slow (no slomo in this video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVvERTv2VvQ

Stock shocks are about 70mm. I just quickly measured mine. many add longer shocks but they usually modify the chassis to let the shock upper poke through and mount from above the chassis so the overall height is not much higher. The independent front suspension (IFS) arms will limit how long a shock you can use up front with the stock upper mount location.

Can't talk intelligently about a BEC so I'll leave that to someone else.

[The Loyale]

Wow thank you for the added knowledge and thread - I just got my CC-01 kit today, so now I can take a closer look at everything and see whats what!

Alright, So I'll order a 65t and see how I like it - and if its still a bit to fast I'll add a reduction kit to it aswell. Nice video btw, I have that same New-bright LR3 body, its still on the new-bright chassis it came with lol.

Cool, I have a list starting with things I'm gonna add and swap out. rc4wd tires for one, these tamiya ones seem really cheep and plastic(y) like they wouldn't be able to grab onto anything.

So what do you do about the antana? Wouldn't you get poor reception if it isn't sticking up thru the body? Also, there is no need for a 4-pack of AA batterys that plugs into the receiver unit? Every other Tamiya I have used them for power to the steering servo. Hmm?

Thanks again to everyone who have givin me helpful info!
-Tom

[Rckcrwlr]

Originally Posted by The Loyale

So what do you do about the antana? Wouldn't you get poor reception if it isn't sticking up thru the body?

In this hobby, you tend to be up close to the rig so range isn't as much of an issue...

Originally Posted by The Loyale

Also, there is no need for a 4-pack of AA batterys that plugs into the receiver unit? Every other Tamiya I have used them for power to the steering servo. Hmm?

The power will go through the ESC to the servos. You may find you will need an external BEC (CC BEC) if you start losing steering power.

Originally Posted by The Loyale

Thanks again to everyone who have givin me helpful info!
-Tom

No thanks needed...that is what the hobby is about.

[j_dub]

if you wanna see a sick cc-01 got to the last page in the cc/xc section and click on king cobras hx hummer build. sickest cc-01 in the world hands down.

[The Loyale]

John, Yea I guess thats true - why would you stand 50 yards away from your rig? LOL

SO everything runs off the ESC and 7.2 pack. I'll see how that works and see if I need a BEC.

j_ Dub. Will do!

Its nice that people are cool and willing to help - unlike some other fourms. this is like the USMB (Ultimate Subaru Message Board) but for RC crawlers! Everyones nice and knowledgeable here.

I will make sure I take some pictures of the build and what extras I add.

-Tom

[The Loyale]

So what does everyone use to make bumpers and roll bars/cages ect? Can I just use any brazing kit with any type of rods with flux? Or is there certon things I need to have? Also what types of rods and metals do you use. I'm thinking of making a roof basket and a center skid plate for my FJ and am gathing info (Just like everything else I have asked) Also if I wanted to make a type of metal box bumper, what would I use and what gauge? Just seeing whats the best and easiest as its my first attemp and don't want to mess up and waste product (I know, thats part of trial and error Haha) So any tips you guys can give me is very much oblidged!

-Tom

[fixed13]

Originally Posted by The Loyale

So what does everyone use to make bumpers and roll bars/cages ect? Can I just use any brazing kit with any type of rods with flux? Or is there certon things I need to have? Also what types of rods and metals do you use. I'm thinking of making a roof basket and a center skid plate for my FJ and am gathing info (Just like everything else I have asked) Also if I wanted to make a type of metal box bumper, what would I use and what gauge? Just seeing whats the best and easiest as its my first attemp and don't want to mess up and waste product (I know, thats part of trial and error Haha) So any tips you guys can give me is very much oblidged!

-Tom

I am not the most knowledgeable about brazing but I will share what I know......................I have built mostly tube bumpers, sliders, and roof racks. I will not be able to tell you what guage sheet steel cause it was here next to my welder and I have no idea what guage it is. For tube I use 3/16 brake line, for mesh I use either 1/4 inch hardware cloth or metal gutter screen. I braze with a Mapp torch and use Harris Stay-Silv flux and Safety-Silv 45 "rod" (it is 45% silver, 1/16th diam, and comes in a roll kinda like solder). I started with a small O2/ Mapp torch for cutting and brazing and it worked great but it was easy to get to hot and I was going through alot of O2. Now I use just a Mapp brazing torch. Good luck and keep us posted.

[The Loyale]

Fixed,

Thanks for sharing that bit of info. That does help. Now i know what to look for. I have a Mapp/O2 brazing kit so I will see about getting a Mapp only kit. I will also look for that 45% silver rods your were talking about. I'll have to dink around this winter

Thank you again!
-Tom

[The Loyale]

UPDATE:

I have assembled the entire chassis so far, just waiting on a 65t motor from rc4wd. I am trimming the body at the moment, using a scissors and model knife, working ok, takes time with that so it looks perfect (Or almost that is) Lol. I'm gonna be painting to outisde of the body with standard Tamiya rattle can, I heard that if I lightly sand the body and then mist primer on it a few times to make it ruff then do a coat of primer and paint ect. it should flake off as easy or at all, any advice on this? I'm also gonna be doing clear windows, I would like to add a seat or two, where can I get two scale bucket seats? racing style is fine.

Then since I found some nice size round bar (Folder rack) I am going to see about making a roof basket, all these plans and little experience Haha.

Also, once I get paid. I'm going to get rc4wd's Rock creeper tires (1.9) and maybe even a set of wheels. I am also going to mount a tire on the back of the body.

Pics soon.

-Tom

[Gabriel]

Mayby some ideas here:
http://www.modell-truck-trial.de/ind...lbau&Itemid=58

[The Loyale]

Yep, Pictures are always good

-Tom