Wifes upset. Coulda went on vacation build

[TragOul]

First things first, she's not mad, just dropped her jaw.....

So I've wanted to start a build thread for awhile now, but felt i wasn't far enough along or id not update often. Well i can see the end in sight (proverbial end) and ive got a deadline since i plan to attend rausch creek with this truck.

I slowly started this build about 6 months ago when i saw the proline f650 body. Took awhile to figure out how i wanted everything to line up. I knew i didn't want a truggy, but i wanted a full cage, that looked like a truck even without the body on.

Fast forward, i almost had mattzilla build me a custom cage, but really wanted to do it myself. Sorry lue and thanks for your time. Bought a tig welder and prodeeded to teach myself. Needless to say my work is not pro and iwill end up redoing a number if things after rausch creek.

Guess its time for a few pics. Im at work now and hopefully have a slow night. If so ill add to this as the night goes on.

[jdmguy760]

This looks like it's gonna be cool I like it so far

[TragOul]

Those are 1.9 rockbeast stretched over 2.2 slw's. they actually fit really
well and were no trouble to get the beads in.

I probably could of made my life much easier, by using the smaller f650 body
that would of fit the scx10, but it is an f650 and doing the math the
larger/longer body was actually very close to scale with a true f650.

Now how do I fit a longer body with a longer wheelbase on the scx10 frame
rails but still get everything to line up properly??? I decided to make
frame/bumper extensions using ¼" keystock and 16g sheet metal. i forget the
exact numbers but i think like 1.75" in the front and 2.75" in the rear is
what i did. something like that...

[TragOul]

Not sure why it double posted the one pic. And i apologize if pics are crappy. Grabbed them with my phone before running out the door for work.

[TragOul]

its posible this needs to be moved to the 2.2 section after i noticed the fine print saying 1.9 wheels and not tires. but for now ill just keep adding what i can.

having not been able to test anything yet im hoping i get it right the first time (yeah right) because im not sure ill have the time to rebuild many things prior to rausch creek. next on the list since it appeared in the last set of photos is my cms plate. im really not sure about this thing. as i stated i just bought a tig welder and went to town. ive had many years
experience stick/mig welding but not tig and definitly not welding aluminum.i wanted the cms plate to be aluminum but the only flat stock i had wasnt quite wide enough. so i cut and welded pieces together and then cut
again to get the size i wanted. at that point welded tabs for mounting it in place. man aluminum gets hot and melts SOOOO fast.... so overall im not happy with this plate and it will get redone at some point. but for now it holds my servo and servo winch. i guess well see how long though.

im using a hitec 7950th for steering and a kms freespool for winch.

[spookyseven]

Why do you have your steering knuckles rotated so far foreword? I don't think positive caster is very helpful. Also how close in length is your panhard to your drag link? It might work better to switch sides with your servo and winch so your drag link is longer. You want them to be the same length and in the pictures the drag link looks a little short. Nice build, its awesome to see people make stuff for themselves.

[TragOul]

The knuckles being rolled forward is something i hope to remedy this week. Not completely knowing how it would line up and the longer wb i used 2 extended outputs on the tranny and wraith mips. The tranny doesnt sit dead center of the chassis which was causing a really bad angle on the driveshafts. To set the wb i had to roll it foward like that to eliminate binding. I even made a plate that moved the tranny back almost an inch on the skid to help get rid of it. I ordered a stub shaft for the front, my hopes are that will allow me to roll it back where it needs to be.

As for the drag link i really wanted to use the scale shock thingy. I even had the servo on the other side originally, but the "shock" drag link didnt feel stable threaded out that far, so i switched it around. I may not be able to use it but for now till i can test it, i left it there.

[TragOul]

A little about the cage..

The cage is made from 1/4 brake line. 25' coil. the coil annoyed me tremendously so i decided it needed to ne straightened.
So i could spend 100 bucks and buy a straightener or....




Build a tool. The rollers are glass sliding door rollers attached to 8" channel and a piece of 1/4" angle. Threw the steering wheel puller on there to try and keep the adjustable side even. Not sure its really needed.

[KMS]

Looking good so far ,,Remember to use a old rod end as a fairlead ,,,

[Rodamis]

One of the main drive line problems is that the tranny is elevated .it need to drop back down to where it's supposed to go that will help with the sharp drive shaft angles.

[Rodamis]

Another thing is what is your wheel base set at ? The wraith mips are good for 14 inches if your center tranny is in the middle you will be able to use a regular output on the front of the tranny and extended in the rear to mimic a wraith tranny . By lowering the tranny and changing back to a regular front output will cure your front axle clocking too

[Rodamis]

Sorry to bombard your thread. Here is another idea when you do get your stub shaft put the tranny back where it sit on the skid and use the two short mip ends for the front shafts and the longer extended ones for the rear mip. A little mix and match won't hurt anything

[TragOul]

No worries on the bombardment. In fact constructive criticism/advice is always welcome. I've only been in the game less then a year so I'm still learning as i go.

As for my wb its like 13.9ish. As stated i worked with what i had at the time, to keep things set to keep moving foward. my stub should be here in a day or so and at that point probably change a few things.

on a side note, didn't have mych time tonight but got motor wired, rx bound, and tested. Everything seems ok, no binding, although i understand the previous advice regarding the drag link. Crazy steering to the right very little to the left. And boy does that servo make some noise.

[spookyseven]

You should be able to get full steering where your servo is. Minimizing bump steer is the reason you want your drag link and panhard the same length/angle. Bump steer is your tires turning as your suspension cycles up and down.

[TragOul]

Well its friday morning, been a busy couple days at work and got nothing done till this morning. My ss stub shaft arrived yesterday and i went to work installing it this morning. Upon installation i remembered there was more than one reason i made that plate that moved my tranny back. The long rear wb didnt allow the mips to engage in the rear ds.


So i remembered my original plan was to make an extended female mip. Time to cut and weld.


If you remember i said i recently bought a tig welder but had no prior experience tig welding. So my work is not pro.



I chose to add 15mm to the overall length not putting any heat to the end the male and female joined. A little cleanup (requires more) and we have this.


This is not my first time needing to modify a ds. In my newbness i bought the wrong junfacs for my rubicon and did not have enough time before last years rausch creek g6 to get the correct ones. So a friend did this for me.



Ran out of time before needing to leave for work. So i won't get to fit till tonight.

[TragOul]

I did forget to mention that i believe the stub shaft will in fact fix the clocking and ugly ds angle on the front.