just finished my ax 10 at least i thought i did???????

[mch441]

i just finished up my ax10 yesterday ,or at least it was finished for a couple hours before i found some flaws that i can use some advice on.
1.the suspension ,it seems way to stiff ,from all of the videos that ive seen these things are super flexible and they just seem to suck up every bump and drop , but mine seems like it would just bounce all over the place.

2.drivetrain seems really tight ,with any other electric that ive ever had with no power hooked up you could give it a push with the power off and it would roll a foot or 2 this one seems to be bound up

3.electronics i have a novak superduty speed control that i thought would be perfect for crawling ,handles up to 14 volts and any motor but it doesnt feel smooth at all almost seems to stutter and takes what seems like forever to go from forward to reverse .im replacing it with a bm9 that i bought today and the mamba 25 out of my rc18 t ill probably replace it with a quark whan i get a few extra dollars

other then that i really like the truck they reall made a nice product and the instructions and fit and finish reminded me of the tamiya cars that i loved when i was a kid and just started collecting again !!

[EeePee]

Originally Posted by mch441

2.drivetrain seems really tight ,with any other electric that ive ever had with no power hooked up you could give it a push with the power off and it would roll a foot or 2 this one seems to be bound up

With or without the motor in it?

[mch441]

with the motor in seems extremely tight

[madmaxxed]

mine does the exact same thing with the bound up feel when the power is off. without the motor in it will roll no problem. with the motor in and the power off it seems like it's bound up. the gear mesh is set right as well.

[Steveakus]

thats a good thing,

[RedNeck Rc]

I believe becuase they are geared differently, crawlers are geared way differently than racers. This will help you on steep descents and allow you to roll down instead of fall down it.

[mysharona]

Alot of it is in the gearing, stock setting is pretty darn low, I bet if you threw on a 30 tooth pinion gear she'd roll forward easyer, but that kind of defies the point of a crawler. you want the truck to be difficult to roll off power, it works like a drag break, holding you on the hill side instead of rolling down it uncontrollably.

[mch441]

well i guess alls good then i wont worry about it ,how bout the suspension tho is it normal for it to feel so stiff ??

[aaugman]

how much fluid did you put in your shocks ? if you fill them all the way to the top then they are really stiff, you must only fill them no more than 3/4 of the way up, also put the bump stop inside the shock tower to lower your cg, the truck sits very high stock

[BigRocks]

The crawler motors also have a lot stiffer cog to them than a regular 17t or something. I run drooped, with red springs up front, white in back and 60 wt. all around. I've rebuilt my shocks a shit ton, testing different configurations and such. As of right now this seems to work the best. So far. Just my 2 cents

[XR Mugen]

Hey there:

Did you drill an air hole in each wheel to allow the air to escape from the tires? That will take a lot of the bounce out of the suspension.

[rdtshaw]

+1 On venting the tires! REAL bouncy otherise. The truck is not supposed to roll freely with the motor in, would make descents near impossible, thats why we do steep descents in 4L 1st gear in 1:1 rigs. It would cause brake fade real quickly, and make controlling it very difficult. Better to have "assumed", or drag braking, that you can counteract with a little throttle than having to constantly work the brake and gas back and forth. In a 1:1 rig, the engine compression and gearing have this effect, but in an electric the motor uses the magnets to have the same effect. An ESC with a varible drag brake setting is a major plus too if you run a motor that free spins easily. I can put my AX with a Novak 55T on an 75-80 degree angle and it will just stay there. A smidge of throttle and I have a nice controlled descent. If I let off the throttle too fast it will endo pretty easy though.

Fill your rear left shock just short of the top to counteract the torque twist, and less in the others. The white soft axial springs in the front seem to work well on the stock shocks.

Cheers,

Rob

[mch441]

ok drilled holes in the wheels last night,i also moved the shocks out to the furthest hole on the chassis ,switched the ends on my bent links to a straight end seemed like there was a little binding between the link ends and the shock ends.also i noticed last night that it came with 30 wt oil and my experience with my savage and my tmaxx was to use heavier oils so thinking i might need to put maybe some 80 or even 100 wt oil in them to slow the rebound down abit along with some softer springs .im thinking the ones of my old maxx shocks should be softer and fit just fine.