Anyones outdrive yokes set screws come loose like mine. help please

[BRUSHLESSAX10]

the set screws on my steel outdrives( the stock ones) keep slipping on the flat part of the shaft. it gives that much more play in the wheels than there already is. has anyone ever drilled them all the way through like how my electric rustler and tmaxx. if i could put a pin all the way through, i think that would solve the problem.BTW, yes i use locktight. thanks for the help guys......................nathan

[pncstod]

Try putting two in each yoke. I put two in each yoke and two in each end of the drive shaft on the transfer case side. All loctited of course. Never had a problem with them loosening....

[BRUSHLESSAX10]

cool. thats what i was thinkin would be the cheapest and easiest. now i just got to buy more set screws.lol

[pncstod]

They are 3mm grub screws. I got them at the LHS, they were Dubro ones.

[k9crawler]

My yokes on the front kept slipping off too, so I took a (think it was a 1/8 inch drill bit, not sure and dont want to get off the chair to look) and drilled a hole into the shaft and then took a long set screw and went through the hole with some lock tight. Hasn't slipped off since. Just my two cents

[yotachump]

Originally Posted by k9crawler

My yokes on the front kept slipping off too, so I took a (think it was a 1/8 inch drill bit, not sure and dont want to get off the chair to look) and drilled a hole into the shaft and then took a long set screw and went through the hole with some lock tight. Hasn't slipped off since. Just my two cents

Do not do this the output shafts will break.

[pncstod]

Originally Posted by k9crawler

My yokes on the front kept slipping off too, so I took a (think it was a 1/8 inch drill bit, not sure and dont want to get off the chair to look) and drilled a hole into the shaft and then took a long set screw and went through the hole with some lock tight. Hasn't slipped off since. Just my two cents

Those output shafts are weak enough as it is--I agree with Yotachump--they will break....

[freetimecrawler]

Originally Posted by pncstod

Try putting two in each yoke. I put two in each yoke and two in each end of the drive shaft on the transfer case side. All loctited of course. Never had a problem with them loosening....

X2 I did the same when I built mine, never had an issue.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by pncstod

Try putting two in each yoke. I put two in each yoke and two in each end of the drive shaft on the transfer case side. All loctited of course. Never had a problem with them loosening....

This is what I did when I built mine and they loosened on the first run. Re-Loctited and tightened them tighter....so far so good but keep an eye on them.

[rn38]

Yah dont drill um they break, and 2 screws dont work either for me. I rounded the end off with the 2 screws. I'm suprised noone made an HD one yet. Trying to figure out a way to fix it. If anyone figures a true fix please post it. Was actually thinking about just drilling a little dimple in it and have the setscrew "sit" in it.

[bill c]

i drilled mine, with two set screws. have not had any prob's. broken just about every thing but the yokes...... so pick your poison...

[Toast]

I have used 2 grub screws and put brass tube collars over the plastic part of the uni. I recon this stops some vibration and also stops the plastic yoke from splitting. K&S 1/2in brass tube is the perfect size! Cut off a 6mm ring and slide it over the uni from the metal end.

[El Gooch]

Originally Posted by Toast

I have used 2 grub screws and put brass tube collars over the plastic part of the uni. I recon this stops some vibration and also stops the plastic yoke from splitting. K&S 1/2in brass tube is the perfect size! Cut off a 6mm ring and slide it over the uni from the metal end.

Thanks for your post, I was reading and hoping it might lead to someone talking about a yoke fix. And wala you said it.

[Toast]

I please to aim......

[Extra Chunky]

If memory serves me right the E-maxx has a screw that goes through a hole and has a small stub that goes clear through the output shaft and back into the backside of the shaft. Also there was a all steel set of drive shafts from I think MIP.

[hlb3]

I didn't drill mine completely through, I just put a small indent in the shaft and that seemed to fix the problem for me.

[Biscuit]

I drilled mine and also drilled the input shaft of the axle and am using Maxx shafts and screws. I'm not saying that they wont break but I've bound mine up pretty hard getting caught in rock crevises and havent broken one yet.

[jdmstuff]

I use 2 screws on mine with lock tite. No issues whatsoever. You may want to invest in a good set of hex drivers. They make all the difference when you have to tighten something like this the allen wrenches that come in the kit are useless.

[BRUSHLESSAX10]

thanks for all the help everyone, i got some good ideas now to fix the problem. btw I have snap-on hex drivers so i know they are tight, but thanks for the advice, stock tools do suck. im thinkin about those new stainless punisher shafts too. anyone buy them yet. 40 bucks a piece, thats alot..............anyway thanks agian..............nathan

[Toast]

Yep, I have a pair of punisher shafts on my Ax10. Mine cost $58 ea with freight and only took 4 months to arrive....
They come with a looooooong grub screw that will go through a hole in the diff/gearbox input shaft. As there isnt one I replaced it with a 3x6mm grub screw (locktighted of course!). Seems fine so far but will let you know. We have a comp this weekend and I am defending my title (New Zealand number 1) so am expecting big things from the shafts.
Some points to note:- as they are hand made (that must be why they took so long to arrive!) the spines only fit one way so mark them. Also they are HEAVY. Its weight low down and at each end so hopefully it wont hurt too much but they have increased the overall weight considerably!. Oh well... we will see.