|
![]() |
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() | #1 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]() ![]() Here it is after the long awaited arrival. This is the New DNA RC SlingShot CFX Chassis. The CF stands for Carbon Fiber. This chassis is made from Carbon Fiber, Delrin, and Clear Lexan. Purpose built to be used with the ever popular Axial Tranny (http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/ax10options/AX30487.htm) and the ever popular Axial locked axle sets. (http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/ax10options/AX30488.htm) It is also designed to use the first Axial tranny mounted DIG Unit on the market. The DNA DIG. (http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Backorder...r-p-16824.html) This makes for a killer combination of rock crawling performance. This build is being done an a beta version of the chassis so the production version will look even better than this. The production version will have the same appearance on the inside of the chassis plates as the finish on the outside. And the upper link plates will be CF as well. Why Carbon Fiber you ask?? Well simply put it's strong and extremely light weight. This reduces the amount of weight that is high up with most crawler chassis's. Remeber you want the weight down low next to the axles and the wheels. The original SlingShot was done in both Aluminum and Delrin and is a proven winner. Now with a little "DNA re-sequencing" it has evolved yet again into the....... DNA SlingShot CFX!!! www.DNA-RC.com Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-29-2008 at 08:39 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
Sponsored Links | |
![]() | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
So here it is. now remember this is a beta version so some things will be different as far as the material used. Basically the Aluminum front link/battery plate and the rear link plate will be made from Carbon Fiber just like the chassis. So here's here's the parts laid out. Upper and lower Delrin bent links, Clear chassis supports with integrated dig servo mount and plenty of holes to secure electronics with, Carbon fiber chassis plates, Front battery/link plate and rear link plate, and the DNA original design curved Delrin skid. Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-26-2008 at 05:36 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Now to really make this thing shine we added the Custom aluminum Dig case w/out the upper servo mount machined into it. Now remember this chassis is designed to be used with the DNA dig unit and the dig servo now mounts in the rear clear chassis brace. We also added a new set of DNA rims. To finish the set-up I will be using a 45T V11 brushed motor, a Castle Creations SideWinder esc, a CC BEC, Spektrum DX3R radio system, one Hitec HS-225 MG servo for the dig and a Hitec Titanium servo for the steering. ( Hitec Steering servo not shown at this point). Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-26-2008 at 05:36 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Now about the only left you need are some Rod ends and shocks. To get into the required wheel base length you'll ned to use the Traxxas Revo rod ends Part # 5347 they come 16 to a bag rod end and hollow balls. So you will need to bags which is fine because in crawling extra parts are a good thing. Next you'll need 4 shocks. Now you can either go with Traxxas Revo shocks part# 5460 and then spring sets soft Part # 5427 and stiff Part # 5434. Or your other option is Losi .6 front buggy shocks. I went with the aluminum Revo shocks. The polished aluminum looks great with this chassis. I set the shocks up as follows. Front with the soft springs larger hole pistons and Axial 30 wt. oil. The rears were set up with the stock small hole pistons, stiff springs and Axial 30 wt. oil. Now two things here these are big bore shocks and they come with hollow ball ends which I like because you don't have to do the fuel tubing deal to mount them up. it's clean simple and looks great. Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-26-2008 at 05:35 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
It's time to put this bad boy together. I started with the Axial stock tranny. Tear it down to replace the front and rear out put shafts. The install the rear out put shaft cog. Make sure that when you rotate the spur gear the the brass pin that comes out the center of the rear cog is spinning true. If it wobbles you can take a small sized deep well socket and tweek it until it spins true. Mine wasn't very far off. A little push with a socket and it was spinning really good, no wobble. Now that that's done install the rear cogand shift fork. I then applied a little grease to the unit and then buttoned up the dig case to the tranny. Nest thing to do is to install the 45T V11 motor with a 14T Axial pinion gear. Now with the main part of the power system together we can next mount it to the Delrin skid plate. Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-26-2008 at 05:34 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Once you have the tranny mounted you can install the chassis sides. The open wide open side goes on the side the motor sits. The slanted side goes on the DIG side. Then take the Traxxas rod ends and install them on the lower links and the uppers with the supplied set screws. You can then mount the longer lower links to the chassis at the skid plate. If you lay out the links you'll see the bend is not centered in the length of the link. I put the longer end toward the chassis leaving the shorter end to be hooked to the axle later. Install the supplied lower link screws through the chassis sides into the skid and slip on the lower links. Then install the supplied Nylock nuts. At this point you should have the basic chassis sitting in front of you. Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-26-2008 at 05:34 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Locate your to clear chassis supports. The one with the servo cut out goes in the rear while the one with the "X" goes into the front. Now the sweet part about these two parts is they are tapped to match up with the adjustment holes in the chassis. This means no nut and bolts for the chassis supports or the shocks. Plus these mounts have plenty of holes and such to attach your electronics to. For weight distribution purposes I put my Castle Creations SideWinder and the Spektrum 3000 receiver on the front plate and along with the dig servo in the rear I placed the Castel Creations BEC unit there also. Now I secured each chassis support with two screws on each side making the chassis very rigid and strong at this point. Also be sure that the rear plate has the dig serv mount hole on the same side of the chassis as the motor. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Now to get the axles ready to go. I set up my front Axial axle with the new Axial Aluminum C hubs and Knuckles along with the new front CVD axles. Talk about improved steering throw and smooth rotation of the axles. Next step for me was to make some support posts for the DNA Battery/Servo tray. I used Black Delrin rod cut to the proper length. Drilled out the center and installed 3mm studs. Now not to worry to different lengths of these will be supplied in the CFX kit. This will allow you to mount to the stock mounts or if you prefer you can shave them down and get the battery /servo tray right down onto the axle housing. I went for the stock position for now. Mount up your servo and install the plate on to the axle. Then next set-up your steering links. This can be done just as the axial steering or the way mine is set up in the photo's that you'll see later in the build. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #9 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Now we're getting to the good part. Installing the upper links and attaching the axles and the shocks to the chassis. Now I won't go to indepth here because a lot will depend on what shocks you go with and your preferences for how you like your suspension and links set up. I did the lower links to the inside of the axle mounts with the shocks at the outter side of the inside of the mounts. Both front and rear are like this. Now the shocks are mounted to the 4th hole from the rear tip of the chassis at the back. The front shocks are mounted to the 3rd hle from the front tip of the chassis. Upper links are in the middle holes on the chassis both front and back and they are then attached to the inner row of each upper link plate at the second to the closest holes to the center. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #11 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
And here it is all wired up Wheels mounted and ready to go. Not how the new chassis brace allows the dig servo to be mounted in a trun direct line for perfect funtion of the dig unit every time. You'll also have to excuse the steering servo wire mess.The Hitec Titanium geared servo I ordered wasn't shipped to me until Friday so it will go in early this week. __________________ Jason |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #13 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
| ![]()
Ok this thing is sweet! I was waiting to hear from soloman if he could make a wider original Sling shot to run more gear but now I may have to get me a wide version of this! Why can't I find a Price any where? I got a nice set of poulson axles to put under that bad boy!
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #14 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Ride height with the current set-up is 2 7/8" with a wheel base at 12 5/16". The chassis is 2 3/4" form outer edge to outer edge of the CF plates. This chassis and othe great products from DNA RC can be found at many on-line retailers. Just go to www.DNA-RC.com . There you'll find a list of other items and links to retailers that carry DNA products. If you have any questions at all about this chassis or my set-up feel free to ask, I'm here to help in any way. Jason __________________ Last edited by JAM MaxAmps.com; 10-26-2008 at 07:52 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #15 |
Ultimate RC Decals Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Antonio
Posts: 3,761
| ![]()
nice build jason!!
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #16 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]() Quote:
Pricing has yet to be determined. The last I heard was this will be sold as a chassis and as a kit complete with Axial Axles, tranny, dig, chassis, links and Losi shocks. Stay tuned for more and keep an eye in the DNA Vendors section for release updates, availability, and pricing. Jason | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #17 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #18 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 1,296
| ![]()
I haven't heard many good things about doing the steering like you did in terms of ankerman angle how do find the steering to be?
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #19 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nine Mile Falls, WA
Posts: 1,229
| ![]()
Depending on which way you turn one wheel does turn more but right now I see no issues. No binding or anything at that's with a 160 oz servo. The 333 oz titanium shouldn't have any issues. Kick in the dig and it spins right around. Jason |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #20 |
Holmes Hobbies ![]() Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: No Where
Posts: 2,751
| ![]()
Good job Jason,Looks great ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |