Help me build the Ultimate AX based Basher

[Sixstring]

Ok I'm going to go shafty. After a goround with the XTM X Crawler I have decided it's not for me. After buying my son an AX10 that had a few mods on it and goofing around with it for a wile I was convenced that it was the way to go for me. So I'm asking you guys to lend a hand in picking out all the gear less Radio which I'm thinking Futaba 4PK for the 4th channel. The things that I want for sure are Lipo and Brushless and I want it to have that long, wide and low slung look with the 2.2 tires. I would also like to have 4WS and DIG if that's possable, what can I say I'm an options kind of guy. I want to use the best parts avilable for reliability, longevity and durability and not necessarily in that order. Bling is not a major factor as thes things just get all scratched up anyway. BUt I like the bug body look. I'm not closed to the tuber idea ether if all that can be done to a tuber. So let's here it ....

[Sixstring]

Wow... 75 views and no one has any suggestions, that just blowes my mind... You guy are a tuff crowd.

[Deezul]

just to throw somthing out here,,,,,,Mamba Max, 3s Lipo, Brushless of your chioce, Bender or Xtrail chassis, Gmade shocks, Mayhem or similar rims, HPI (the masher like ones) or Losi tires, hitec servos, 4ws kit(axial), MIP driveshafts, Axial CVD's, RCP knuckels and C's all around. If its a basher don't bother with dig IMO

[chvy4wd]

Tekin FX-R combo 55 turn, EDGE chassis, Maxx shocks, Clawz or Hammers, Front 4-link/battery plate, Rear 4-link, Ultra torque servo, Aluminum straight axle adapters, Aluminum knuckels and c-hubs, Steel driveshafts, etc..... Its a start.

[Sixstring]

Ok now were getting somewhere. Thanks for the sugestions but I want the Ultamet Basher. So lets take the lid off the box and make somthing truly off the hook silly . I know you guys can do better that that.

[Slyp Dawg]

well, if I was building the ultimate solid axle basher, here's how I'd do it:
TCS xTrail
axial axles (obviously)
HD ring/pinions
RCP lockers
MIP CVDs in the front
axial straight axles in the rear
RCP clockable Cs in the front with axial aluminum straight-axle adapters in the rear
TCS high-steer knuckles (once they come out) or RCP aluminum knuckles
TCS front link/servo mount and rear boomerang mount (in delrin, just cuz it's cheaper and doesn't stand out against the black axle casing or really servo case)
MIP center shafts
integy steel tranny gearset (tho i'd use a plastic spur so you do have at least one weak-link)
your motor plate of choice
XRC delrin sleeved links with the revo rod ends at both ends (straight or bent, your choice, but straight would be more durable if you have a head-on collision with something)
a delrin skidplate (preferably one that moves the links towards the center to double-triangulate the links)
my personal choice on shocks would be HPI rear super shocks (part number A725 on tower) with the 10X4mm firm bladders (part number 72112 on tower) to give a bit more dampening (the piston has to actually let more oil through rather than just push the oil and deform the bladder. plus I don't think the rear super shocks come with a bladder of any kind, and bladder shocks I'd imagine perform more consistently than emulsion shocks)
for chassis braces I'd try to find a standoff the same width as the stock battery plate braces and use those where-ever you can on the chassis to help with stiffness (let the suspension do it's job rather than let the chassis do part of the suspension's job)
for electronics, my first instinct would be to put a GOAT or a novak crawler brushless system in it, just because I've seen the kind of IQ-reducing-power the goats can put out (clod body tlt axle K2-3L that can pull normal wheelies and nose wheelies on demand? I think that's power right there), coupled with a Spektrum DX3R, a Futaba S3305 servo (I've had good luck with those, they have good specs and they are pretty cheap) or a Futaba S9156 (now with 100% more holy-broken-servo-arm-batman! levels of torque. 340 oz-inches at 6 volts will probably be enough to snap plastic servo horns and bend aluminum ones if the steering is bound up, or it'll tweak your steering knuckles till you've got about 5 extra degrees of toe on one side), and of course a 2s2p Maxamps lipoly, highest compacity you can find
for rims, aluminum or high quality delrin 2.2s of your choice, but i'd go with CAC Sinners built up zero offset, about 1.2" wide (remember, the Goat is potent enough to make a 2.2 trail rig launch like John Force's funny car on a record-shattering run. your wheel hubs and hex adapters are going to hate you with every scrap of their existence every time you touch the loud pedal. molded plastic just won't cut it, especially with tons of traction)
for tires, I've had good luck with red compound Losi Smashers with unmodified foams, so they get my vote. unmounted they are shorter than geolandars, but when on a narrow rim like a Proline 8 shooter they balloon up enough to be just as tall if not taller than geolandars. plus they grip amazingly well, even without doing anything to the stock foams (which are wide enough for a 2.2 stadium truck rim)
for a body, anything will do but if it was my rig I'd probably go for a HPI landy or maybe the HPI bronco, or a Proline Bushwhacker. with the kind of power a Goat can put on tap, I'd hate to think what would become of a hardbody after a run or three

that's just how I'd build the ultimate basher. stupid amounts of power, the drivetrain to handle it, the suspension to attempt to make use of it when crawling and when hitting stuff at speed, and great electronics to round out the package

[Sixstring]

Originally Posted by Slyp Dawg

well, if I was building the ultimate solid axle basher, here's how I'd do it:
TCS xTrail
axial axles (obviously)
HD ring/pinions
RCP lockers
MIP CVDs in the front
axial straight axles in the rear
RCP clockable Cs in the front with axial aluminum straight-axle adapters in the rear
TCS high-steer knuckles (once they come out) or RCP aluminum knuckles
TCS front link/servo mount and rear boomerang mount (in delrin, just cuz it's cheaper and doesn't stand out against the black axle casing or really servo case)
MIP center shafts
integy steel tranny gearset (tho i'd use a plastic spur so you do have at least one weak-link)
your motor plate of choice
XRC delrin sleeved links with the revo rod ends at both ends (straight or bent, your choice, but straight would be more durable if you have a head-on collision with something)
a delrin skidplate (preferably one that moves the links towards the center to double-triangulate the links)
my personal choice on shocks would be HPI rear super shocks (part number A725 on tower) with the 10X4mm firm bladders (part number 72112 on tower) to give a bit more dampening (the piston has to actually let more oil through rather than just push the oil and deform the bladder. plus I don't think the rear super shocks come with a bladder of any kind, and bladder shocks I'd imagine perform more consistently than emulsion shocks)
for chassis braces I'd try to find a standoff the same width as the stock battery plate braces and use those where-ever you can on the chassis to help with stiffness (let the suspension do it's job rather than let the chassis do part of the suspension's job)
for electronics, my first instinct would be to put a GOAT or a novak crawler brushless system in it, just because I've seen the kind of IQ-reducing-power the goats can put out (clod body tlt axle K2-3L that can pull normal wheelies and nose wheelies on demand? I think that's power right there), coupled with a Spektrum DX3R, a Futaba S3305 servo (I've had good luck with those, they have good specs and they are pretty cheap) or a Futaba S9156 (now with 100% more holy-broken-servo-arm-batman! levels of torque. 340 oz-inches at 6 volts will probably be enough to snap plastic servo horns and bend aluminum ones if the steering is bound up, or it'll tweak your steering knuckles till you've got about 5 extra degrees of toe on one side), and of course a 2s2p Maxamps lipoly, highest compacity you can find
for rims, aluminum or high quality delrin 2.2s of your choice, but i'd go with CAC Sinners built up zero offset, about 1.2" wide (remember, the Goat is potent enough to make a 2.2 trail rig launch like John Force's funny car on a record-shattering run. your wheel hubs and hex adapters are going to hate you with every scrap of their existence every time you touch the loud pedal. molded plastic just won't cut it, especially with tons of traction)
for tires, I've had good luck with red compound Losi Smashers with unmodified foams, so they get my vote. unmounted they are shorter than geolandars, but when on a narrow rim like a Proline 8 shooter they balloon up enough to be just as tall if not taller than geolandars. plus they grip amazingly well, even without doing anything to the stock foams (which are wide enough for a 2.2 stadium truck rim)
for a body, anything will do but if it was my rig I'd probably go for a HPI landy or maybe the HPI bronco, or a Proline Bushwhacker. with the kind of power a Goat can put on tap, I'd hate to think what would become of a hardbody after a run or three

that's just how I'd build the ultimate basher. stupid amounts of power, the drivetrain to handle it, the suspension to attempt to make use of it when crawling and when hitting stuff at speed, and great electronics to round out the package

Now this is what I was looking for, thank you very much. I have a question though For bashing are the 4WS or dig are not good ideas? I would like to be able to menuver in tight spots.

[TexasSP]

My question on the dig and 4ws is why not? What would be the hesitation on using something that would improve the performance basher or not?

I would want the ability for the to go between 4ws and 2ws and not just have 4ws all of the time but other than that, I can't see why you wouldn't.

[Crayon]

if your anything like me and have 5 models kicking around 4 of which u have broken and are sitting then u have plenty of spare parts. i just made my rear stear out of some old links and screws it took about 20 mins i didnt even need to cut anything. thats a good option if ur as cheap as i am, not everyone is though.. if u have the channels and the will go for the dig and rear stear. why not?

[Sixstring]

Well I did ask for sugestions and Slyp Dawg gave his. I don't think he is all for the 4WS and DIG or maybe he just thinks it's not nesseary on a basher. I want the ability to do both and was wondering if it was doable with the Futaba 4PK radio. The Tuber thing is starting to grow on me as well I don't see many tubers with 4WS is there a reason?

[47willysbuggy]

Because most tubers are for comps and 2.2 doesnt allow rear steer

[-WHEELMAN-]

Originally Posted by Sixstring

Ok I'm going to go shafty. After a goround with the XTM X Crawler I have decided it's not for me. After buying my son an AX10 that had a few mods on it and goofing around with it for a wile I was convenced that it was the way to go for me. So I'm asking you guys to lend a hand in picking out all the gear less Radio which I'm thinking Futaba 4PK for the 4th channel. The things that I want for sure are Lipo and Brushless and I want it to have that long, wide and low slung look with the 2.2 tires. I would also like to have 4WS and DIG if that's possable, what can I say I'm an options kind of guy. I want to use the best parts avilable for reliability, longevity and durability and not necessarily in that order. Bling is not a major factor as thes things just get all scratched up anyway. BUt I like the bug body look. I'm not closed to the tuber idea ether if all that can be done to a tuber. So let's here it ....

Glad to hear your jumping into brush less and lipo right away.Might want to run at the most a 12 tooth pinion gear on the motor shaft. I think the best chassis for you would be the SWX bender due to all the build wright ups here with the DIG you want to use. If you would like to save some money on the chassis and want to custom make some brackets and spacers to DIG get the black widow chassis. Shocks, either G Made 94MM or losi 4" crawlers. I would really consider the Hot Bodies Rover tires and put the links to the axles almost level for a low COG. This way running the big rovers you will have some belly clearance. You cant go wrong with the AXIAL or RCP aluminum rear axle lockouts front C's and knuckles. The RCP and AXIAL front C's are clock able to help your pinion angle and keep good caster. Hope all this makes sense to you and will help. Just my opinion. Good luck and make sure to post your progress and finish product under AXIAL AX picture archive.Ill be waiting to see it!

[treeafodo]

I say go 4ws instead of dig on a basher, because if you use your dig at speed you will kill your rear tires

[Harley]

Originally Posted by treeafodo

I say go 4ws instead of dig on a basher, because if you use your dig at speed you will kill your rear tires

As someone else said, run both. If he is thinking a 4PK which is the radio I run then he will have no problems what so ever.

Killing your rear tires? Not really, we spin our front tires faster and with just as much force when we do a normal dig.

There are some good suggestions in here.

Here is my list:

X-Trail
AX-10 KIT
Novak Goat System (comes with ESC)
MaxAmps 3000+ Mah 2 cell Lipo
Hitec 7955 Servo front
Hitec 5645 rear
Castle BEC
DNA Dig
Losi Crawler shocks
MIP Driveshafts (Thundertech shortened rear shaft for Dig)



The stock wheels and tires will do for awhile, especially on a basher.

[treeafodo]

Originally Posted by Harley0706

As someone else said, run both. If he is thinking a 4PK which is the radio I run then he will have no problems what so ever.

Killing your rear tires? Not really, we spin our front tires faster and with just as much force when we do a normal dig.

There are some good suggestions in here.

Here is my list:

X-Trail
AX-10 KIT
Novak Goat System (comes with ESC)
MaxAmps 3000+ Mah 2 cell Lipo
Hitec 7955 Servo front
Hitec 5645 rear
Castle BEC
DNA Dig
Losi Crawler shocks
MIP Driveshafts (Thundertech shortened rear shaft for Dig)



The stock wheels and tires will do for awhile, especially on a basher.

sorry didn't see about the both post. What i mean by killing your tires, is when you engage the dig the rear wheels will just be locked, they'd wear out alot faster from just dragging, especially if your running a soft compound.
I agree with the stock tires for now if it's just a basher

[47willysbuggy]

Do you mean engage as in unlock or lock
locked its normal, when you unlock it the rear tires spin freely.
the dig just allows only the front tires to drive so when on an incline, you wont roll over backwards on a throttle.

[Slyp Dawg]

Originally Posted by Sixstring

Now this is what I was looking for, thank you very much. I have a question though For bashing are the 4WS or dig are not good ideas? I would like to be able to menuver in tight spots.

no prob dude
as for digs and 4WS, when I think a solid axle basher I think something that can trail/crawl acceptably well, but can also take one hell of a pounding without breaking, and a dig and 4WS are just two more things that may break that you probably won't regret putting on, but will regret putting them on if you bust something in the rear or the dig gets stuck in dig or freewheel. if you drive it responsibly (hard to do when you've got enough power under your finger to make einstein's IQ drop to below-average levels while he's got the transmitter in his hands) but let a little kid drive it, even if it was a block of stainless steel with wheels, they would likely find a way to break it, and the dig is likely the easiest for a kid to break if they either don't know to let off the throttle when they switch modes or do know but don't care. then you hear the nasty grinding sound and the sound of coins tumbling down the sink tubes (in your head, of course, unless your kid got into the piggybank and is pouring it down the sink. literally). as for the rear steer, care to hazard a guess how much good it's going to do your rear steer servo if you get the urge to put a bit of an air gap between your tires and the ground and botch the landing and come down with all the weight on one rear wheel? if you've got plastic knuckles in the rear, if you land on the side that doesn't have the servo connected to it you're likely going to tweak the knuckle or break it, if you land on the side with the servo connected to it you're going to put a lot of stress on the servo, and with the weight of a scaler/basher (scalers can get bloody heavy mate. especially when you start adding wheel or axle weights) making a rather abrupt and unannounced return to terra firma, that servo isn't going to be too happy. if you're running a servo saver that will take a lot of the load off but servo savers will also make the rear steer a bit vague, and won't do you any favors if the rear wheels want to be pointed a different direction from the one you're telling them to point in. if you've got a plastic/karbonite (pretty much requires a HiTec servo for that) gear servo without a servo saver you're a loony who's going to be buying a new servo every time you get the rear wheels bound up or botch up a landing and come down hard on a single rear wheel. metal gears, well, the servo is going to hate you. it may not die, but it's going to call it's mob buddies on you.
I'd say just go with 2WS and full time 4WD. less to fiddle with setting up, less to fiddle with fixing, less to worry about, less time on the bench and more time pulling trigger. win-win-win-win-win in my book

[Sixstring]

This is killer info guys. Now I have some good ideas and a direction. There is a crawler on ebay that has my attion but I would have to change out some things I don't need for the direction I'm wanting to go. It would be a good platform to start with but I wondering if I should start from scratch and put all the stuff on it that I want from the get go. I guess in the end money wise it would come out about the same.

[Sixstring]

Ok I think Im going to build a tuber. starting with axle housings Stock AX10, Durlin stuff or Aluminum?

[cpd438]

Originally Posted by 47willysbuggy

Do you mean engage as in unlock or lock
locked its normal, when you unlock it the rear tires spin freely.
the dig just allows only the front tires to drive so when on an incline, you wont roll over backwards on a throttle.

Um...Negative Ghostrider. The freewheel is the center position if you have a 3 position 3rd channel. Normal Dig operation for the rest of us that have a 2 position 3rd channdel is 4wd or rear axle locked. Not freewheeling. The whole purpose here is being able to lock the rear axle, thereby creating a pivot point for the front tires to pull the truck around in a tighter arc.

Sixstring: You definitely need a DMG Chassis for this build