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Old 11-21-2008, 11:30 AM   #1
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Default Broke Axial CVD

I broke the small pin in my Axial CVD. What are you guys doing for replacement pins?

Cut up a drill bit?
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:43 AM   #2
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Piano Wire

This works for TLT CVDs

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...string=8116K57

Last edited by CronusTRD; 11-21-2008 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:53 AM   #3
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You broke a Axial or MIP?

And yes a drill bit works good, shrink wrap is good for holding the pin in also if it's a MIP
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:09 PM   #4
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You are the first person that I know of that has broken an Axial CVD. I was just getting ready get a set of these. So what did you do to break it? Come on, you can tell us.
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:25 PM   #5
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MIP needed!
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Old 11-21-2008, 01:17 PM   #6
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I was just driving and it broke. There was no big snap or anything.

The stock pin is about 0.058 thick. The closest thing I could find out in the shop was several 1/16 drill bits. The funny thing is that they were all different by 0.001. The smallest 1/16 bit was 0.061. I put the drill bit in my dremel backwards and used the dremel to spin the bit while I held it flat on a new 4" grinder disk. I took the bit down to 0.059 and then cut 2 to length (0.442?).

Broke pin


Cut bit with spare.



Back together



I hope it will hold up. I will let you know if it does not.

Last edited by K Riccardi; 11-21-2008 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:08 PM   #7
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they break way to easy! my cobalt 7T is on a steady diet of cross pins. i feed them about 2 times a week. MIP is no better, tried them both. cobalt drill bits, nails, hardened drill bits, does not matter. i have no fix for you, just keep making spares.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:17 PM   #8
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Does it seem that the stock pin holds up better than the drill bits?
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:46 PM   #9
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to be honest yes, i feel like the stock pins are the strongest. it sucks though, that you can not buy just the pins. you have to buy that little rebuild kit, AFAIK. the variation in drill bit size is annoying as well! i have 2 rigs, 1 with axial CVDs the other with the MIPs. i can use bosch cobalt bits in the MIP but not in the axials without doing exactly what you are doing. on a side note, i feel like the turing radius is better with the axial cvd's. also, i like the retaing ring set up better. with the MIP you have to epxoxy/JB weld or shrink wrap the pins to keep them from spitting out which is a hassle if you are changing the pins every few runs. not enough material on either(MIP & axial) axle to drill and use larger pins. i will probably just go back to stock shafts soon or Berg my rig.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:50 PM   #10
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you can buy what is called 'drill rod' from McMaster/Carr. It the same material that the drill bits are made from but it's just in a bare rod form.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:56 PM   #11
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in titanium maybe?
i gotta go see, be right back...........
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Old 11-21-2008, 03:37 PM   #12
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im in the same boat! i just broke on yesterday, sucks, for 30 bucks and broke on the 3rd outing! im most likely just gonna go back to the stock outdrives/dogbone setup. steering isnt too bad with them, plus im runnin a dig too!

also im switchin to a berg this year too
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Old 11-21-2008, 04:17 PM   #13
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Running a 7t as well and have not broke a single thing yet. You all running clutches? You gotta have a weak point that won't get hurt if it is weak.

I bind mine up all the time and the CVD's are fine.
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Old 11-21-2008, 04:40 PM   #14
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No clutch for me. I do not have what I would call a torque monster though. 45 turn with a 14t pinion.

I have had the CVDs for a couple of weeks and I have been hard on them. I can live with breaking them once and a while.
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:43 PM   #15
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+2

same setup as you and mine snapped while wheel hopping up a ledge
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Old 11-21-2008, 06:53 PM   #16
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I agree that ya should run a clutch,i keep mine adjusted and no breakage all year,run hard a few hours a week.MIP's have been in my rig all summer and the pins have never slipped or moved yet,no sleeve but ya gotta use red locktight on the set.My buddies had problems,with very little use 4 broken pins between 2 rigs.Not the fault of the CVD from what i saw.
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Old 11-22-2008, 01:20 PM   #17
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Try using 1.5mm dowel pins. You can get them from MCMaster in lengths from 5mm to 20mm long. That is what the original would have been made from. They are about $10 for 100.

Cheers, Brad
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Old 11-22-2008, 01:30 PM   #18
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you think thats telling you something.......
either get rid of that motor or go back to the stock axial dogbone and cup



Quote:
Originally Posted by 8onick View Post
they break way to easy! my cobalt 7T is on a steady diet of cross pins. i feed them about 2 times a week. MIP is no better, tried them both. cobalt drill bits, nails, hardened drill bits, does not matter. i have no fix for you, just keep making spares.
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Old 11-22-2008, 04:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Udlman View Post
Try using 1.5mm dowel pins. You can get them from MCMaster in lengths from 5mm to 20mm long. That is what the original would have been made from. They are about $10 for 100.

Cheers, Brad
Do you have a link for the McMaster stuff? When ever I go on there site it makes my head hurt.
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Old 11-22-2008, 05:27 PM   #20
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I have heard of a few people breaking pins on the Axial CVDs....
But I have been beating the hell out of my Axial CVDs (in 2 rigs) since they came out, full throttle bouncing on the front end, tire twisting binds, huge drops, ect and they have performed great so far..... but then again im only running a Tekin 55t/11.1v Lipo. (more than enough power for me though)
I run Losi Claws on one rig and Panther Cougers on the other and haven't broken a CVD pin yet.

Last edited by Trugg; 11-22-2008 at 05:50 PM.
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