12-31-2008, 07:34 AM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
| Another lost soul
Got a RTR Version of the AX10 for Christmas.... was fooling around in a dumpster full of crushed concrete, and bent the stock links up pretty good, so have upgraded to the aluminum links. Have lots of stuff to do, but of course, money is a concern... so in the mean time, I just spend the time practicing with it as it sits.. sure, it's top heavy, and man, that motor is hard to crawl with, and it sucks not having a drag brake for sure! Stripped out one servo saver, but I guess that's a good thing, considering the alternative. Now that the links are upgraded, I think my next step will be to split the battery pack on the front axle, and move electronics to the top links.. since that should be relatively cheap to do. For those cutting the skid plate, and moving the links inboard.. what are you using to cut the skidplate? https://cid-f6e9ac69c83881b0.skydriv...ling?ct=photos Last edited by syber70; 12-31-2008 at 07:34 AM. Reason: bad pic link |
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12-31-2008, 08:04 AM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: the hills
Posts: 21
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i just got my ax10 as well. but mine is he artr and i put the novac fifty five and rooster crawler combo in it and i love that setup and its only like 110 bucks.. so if you want to upgrade that stuff id go with that. as for the skid plate cutting i used a saw for bolsa wood i forget the real name for them but any small saw should work ok. someone elts want to chime in for me im a noob. |
12-31-2008, 08:19 AM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Memphis
Posts: 4,786
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Relocating your battery is good move. To cut your skid, a hobby grade rotary tool will work fine. I use a Dremel. Once you get into delrin skids, if you ever find a reason to trim it up it would be best to get the skid cut on a bandsaw since the delrin is so tough.
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12-31-2008, 08:36 AM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Fairfeild - Travis AFB- NorCal
Posts: 59
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I am new to crawling but, not to RC and my advice is a rotary tool/dremel (or similar) is by far one of the best investments you can make when it come to tools in your RC tool box. You can purchase a endless variety of bits that should resolve any mod you want to make. They make adapters that turn it into a mini drill press, lathe, router, etc.... All of the different models are reasonably priced and typically come with enough bits to get you started. Wal-mart or Sears is a great place to start your shopping.
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12-31-2008, 09:27 AM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 188
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A serrated steak knife, lots of patience and a band-aid worked just fine for me to cut the skid and relocate the links. EDIT: The band-aid (or band-aids) are not necessary unless you slip and stab yourself, which, with more of item 2, would not have happened. |
12-31-2008, 12:34 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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Was able to cut out the skid to move the links inboard.. but then, while taking it for a test drive, it rolled over, and my dumkoph foot pulled the cord right out of the receiver... Well, guess I need to order a new receiver/radio. Found a TQM on Ebay with receiver for 19.99, 6 bucks shipping.. that's decent right? Figure, I can use the 3rd channel for dig eventually. |
12-31-2008, 12:56 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Memphis
Posts: 4,786
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what cord got pulled out of the RX... the antenna? If so, you can just solder a new one on. If you don't have the means to do it, take it to a LHS if you have one. I'm not sure about the tq3. I would do a search on it to see how other like it.
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12-31-2008, 02:04 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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yeah, it was the antenna. What is LHS? I have a Lowes close by, think I'll pick up a soldering iron... this receiver is probably a good thing to practice soldering skills on. |
12-31-2008, 02:14 PM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Memphis
Posts: 4,786
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12-31-2008, 04:22 PM | #10 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Canyon Country
Posts: 95
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The TQ2 and TQ3 radios are both great bang for the buck radios. They dont have end point adjustments or digital readouts but for $20-30 on ebay they work great. the receiver is rather large.... I have the TQ3 3 channel for my super and it works great. I added end point adjusters and replaced the 3rd channel switch with two buttons for my rear steer... It is rather easy to replace your antenna wire on your rx... most hobby shops will sell just the wire or you can usually get away with just cutting the bad section out and having the wire just a lil shorter... just make sure you are using a fine point soldering iron. |
12-31-2008, 04:34 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: yes
Posts: 182
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I have a tq3 on my crawler and I added a three position switch and endpoints for a total cost of 10 bucks. Two potentiometers, a three position switch, and two pieces of wire. (as well as some solder and an iron) I will try and post some pics but I can't make any guarantees.
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12-31-2008, 05:37 PM | #12 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: yes
Posts: 182
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For this you will need: 2 two inch lengths of wire, one three position switch, and two small potentiometers. You will also need a soldering iron and solder. (all can be bought at radioshack) There are three wires on the original third switch. The center one is power in (+) the other two are power out right (r-)and power out left(l-). To add a new switch, simply unsolder all three wires and connect them to the new switch in the same order they were on the old one. To add endpoints unsolder the r- and l- wires. Solder the r- wire to the middle pin on one potentiometer(also called a rheostat-for adjusting resistence or volume). Solder your l- wire to the middle pin on the other potentiometer. Connect the right pin on the r- potentiometer to the pin on the switch where the r- wire used to be. Then connect the left pin on the l- potentiometer to the switch where the l- wire used to be. Here's how it works. The more current allowed through the l- and r- wires the farther the servo will move. The potentiometer is a variable resistor (usually a knob or a screw on top to do this). By installing the pots inline with the l- and r- wires you can use them to adjust how far the servo will travel. The three position switch is just there because I wanted to be able to freewheel with my dig.(middle position) Also google traxxas tq3 mods. Sry for crappy cellphone pics. |
01-01-2009, 04:24 PM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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Been working on my AX10 RTR a bit more.. no money, so just tweaking as I see fit.. Trying out a full drop setup on it.. just to see how it works. Trimmed the body a bit, and relocated the upper battery tray to the rear axle. I'm running less wheel weights in the rear, so I think the battery will make it nice back there for weight.. can always add more weight to the front if needed by adding stick on weights. Need to get some plates for the upper links to mount the electronics now.. I tried to solder my antenna back on, but now, the ESC only blinks the green/red LED, and nothing happens.. same as if I didn't have a receiver on it at all, so think I screwed it up somehow. hopefully the new tq3 will come in soon enough so I can actually try this thing out again ;) Pics at https://cid-f6e9ac69c83881b0.skydriv...ock%20Crawling |
01-19-2009, 07:51 AM | #14 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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More work done.. Put in a Tekin FXR/55turn motor combo, and a Lipo battery. MIP driveshafts 4-linked the rear using Traxxas steering rods.. uploaded a few vids http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYT2atOyLuk total of 3 of em, screwing around in the concrete pile I'm collecting. |
01-23-2009, 07:08 AM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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Heading into my first comp this weekend in Clermont, FL... Done some more work to it... I really need some new tires I think, the RTR ones are quite stiff. Video of screwing around in the back yard on concrete.. the cylinders are smooth concrete, and very hard to get traction on. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNxlpXMjZPk Pics with some of the changes I've made... Crappy cell phone pics though.. but I think you can see the changes ok. |
01-23-2009, 07:20 AM | #16 |
Official Cook of the ECC Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawthorne, Florida
Posts: 2,653
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You will see big improvements when you switch to a better tire. Lookin' good though. |
01-23-2009, 07:31 AM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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Guess I should also say what I've done.. Started out as a AX10 RTR Tekin FXR combo ESC/55 turn motor. MIP shafts TQ3 Radio/receiver Lipo battery moved the stock battery plate to rear axle, and drilled out holes to mount Traxxas links for a 4-link setup, also drilled two holes into chassis further in, to facilitate the longer links. Weights in front rims, and less weights in rear.. upgraded links, steering, etc. New servo for front, with metal arm. |
01-23-2009, 07:41 AM | #18 |
Official Cook of the ECC Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Hawthorne, Florida
Posts: 2,653
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I'll have extra tires at the comp this weekend if you would like to try them out. |
01-23-2009, 07:48 AM | #19 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Clermont
Posts: 217
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Heading to LHS today, see if they have any decent ones there, if not, I may take you up on that |
01-23-2009, 07:52 AM | #20 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Canyon Country
Posts: 95
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tires for sure! I just put a set of losi rock claws on and it is night and day compared to the stock tires! I would say it is the best change you can make to the truck.
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