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Thread: Should I Just Start Over?

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Old 02-27-2009, 12:01 PM   #1
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Default Should I Just Start Over?

I am a noob. I have an Axial AX10 and I have played with it alot...but I want better. My Integy Motor is loud and whiney, my servo sucks, my speed control could be better and my hardware is missing bolts in some spots. I really want to make a very "nice" rock crawler. You guys think I should dissemble the whole thing and buy new hardware and such or just buy a new kit? I really don't know which would be better in the long run...

Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2009, 12:05 PM   #2
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just repalce what is missing and upgrade.

1. Novak Rooster crawler ESC 55T motor combo
2. Get your manual that came with your AX10 and reorder the missing hardware from tower hobbies
3. Get a decent MG HT standard servo like the futuba MG HT from tower hobbies $29.99
4. Now your crawling again
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:10 PM   #3
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You can rebuild a lot cheaper than starting over. You'll find that when you look at the Axial hardware that most of the bags of screws and such are in the $2.00 range with 10 screws per bag. With a new motor and ESC, new servo and replacement hardware you should be rolling again for under $150.
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:26 PM   #4
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If you are missing a bunch of screws this would be a great time to replace all of them with good quality allenhead hardware. The cheap Phillips head crap that comes from axial is not worth re buying.

There are a few company's that make hardware kits to replace every screw, nut, bolt etc.. on the AX10. try these guys http://www.rcscrewz.com/index.php

It will make your life much easier
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:44 PM   #5
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I agree with everyone else. There are several places where you can buy the individual parts that need replacing, and as far as screws there are alot of places that offer the hardware kits as well, or just do like I do and go to the local hardware store and clean them out on what you need. As far as the motor, Integy motors are fairly cheap, so just replace yours, or save up for something better like the Tekin combo, or even better check out Holmes Hobbies for the best of the best in motors for good prices, and upgrade to a Sidewinder esc. Then get a Hi Tech 645 servo, or save up for the much better 7955. It all basically depends on how much you want to spend on it and how "nice" you want to make it.

This hobby is all about upgrading what you have once it's worn out, and it's always better to upgrade what you have, instead of just building a new rig when one wears out.
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Old 02-27-2009, 04:18 PM   #6
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just fix the one you got then get a new one LOL, but yea just fix the old one i may be a little hard to locate all the parts though idk
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Old 02-27-2009, 05:32 PM   #7
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1. Go to McMaster Carr's website and order a few 100ct bags of M3 screws in like 20mm and 12mm lenghts. (Black Hex Cap Screws) These will come in handy for almost ANY build, and buying them in this quantity will keep your costs WAY DOWN. I buy 100ct bags for about $5 per bag. Compare this to the hobby shop that asks $2 for 10 screws. Also buy a 100ct bag of matching LOCK NUTS for like $3.

2. IF you need to make/buy new chassis braces, upper links, steering links, ect. Buy a 5' lenght of 1/4" delrin tube stock and a lenght of m3 threaded rod. For the total price of $10 max, you can make all the delrin links that you could need for this build, and possible the next build. Just cut the delrin to length, open the hole in the tube a bit with a long drill bit, slide in the threaded rod nad cut it about a total of 3/4" longer than the delrin rod length, then toss on some TRAXXAS 1942 rod ends (Tap them to M3). The ends cost $6/bag of 16 ends. You can do your entire truck for less than the LHS price of 4 links.

3. Take the $$ that you saved in steps 1 & 2 and buy a Hitec 645 for like $40.

4. ESC/Motor....THIS IS WHERE YOU SPEND SOME MONEY. If you go cheap here....you will hate yourself later. Options include the Sidewinder with a nice handwound (Total can get to about $130-$140) THis will let you run 3 cell lipo batteries. Another option is the TEKIN FX-R 55t Combo. This is about $110-$120. People can argue which is better. I say that you can't really lose here. Pick one and go with it.

5. Save your ESC some stress and buy a CASTLE BEC. ($25)

6. IF you can afford it, GO LIPO. The mentioned options above are 3 cell lipo friendly. Small lipo packs have come WAY down in cost, so the investment is the charger if you need a Lipo one.

Simply, save $$$ by fabing the little parts and buying hardware in bulk. Remember that screws can be cut. It is cheaper to buy a 100ct of longer screws and cutting them than it is to buy each size in little bags. This also lends flexibility in hardware choice. Delrin with threaded rod is STRONG, and slicker than aluminum links. ALSO CHEAPER ot build your own. Take the savings from these DIY projects, and invest in good electronics.
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:20 PM   #8
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take it apart,check,lube and fix the stuff you can't see.Then upgrade.Nothing worse then getting a better,stronger something and it braking something wore out and having to wait till you can get it fixed
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xirtic View Post
1. Go to McMaster Carr's website and order a few 100ct bags of M3 screws in like 20mm and 12mm lenghts. (Black Hex Cap Screws) These will come in handy for almost ANY build, and buying them in this quantity will keep your costs WAY DOWN. I buy 100ct bags for about $5 per bag. Compare this to the hobby shop that asks $2 for 10 screws. Also buy a 100ct bag of matching LOCK NUTS for like $3.

2. IF you need to make/buy new chassis braces, upper links, steering links, ect. Buy a 5' lenght of 1/4" delrin tube stock and a lenght of m3 threaded rod. For the total price of $10 max, you can make all the delrin links that you could need for this build, and possible the next build. Just cut the delrin to length, open the hole in the tube a bit with a long drill bit, slide in the threaded rod nad cut it about a total of 3/4" longer than the delrin rod length, then toss on some TRAXXAS 1942 rod ends (Tap them to M3). The ends cost $6/bag of 16 ends. You can do your entire truck for less than the LHS price of 4 links.

3. Take the $$ that you saved in steps 1 & 2 and buy a Hitec 645 for like $40.

4. ESC/Motor....THIS IS WHERE YOU SPEND SOME MONEY. If you go cheap here....you will hate yourself later. Options include the Sidewinder with a nice handwound (Total can get to about $130-$140) THis will let you run 3 cell lipo batteries. Another option is the TEKIN FX-R 55t Combo. This is about $110-$120. People can argue which is better. I say that you can't really lose here. Pick one and go with it.

5. Save your ESC some stress and buy a CASTLE BEC. ($25)

6. IF you can afford it, GO LIPO. The mentioned options above are 3 cell lipo friendly. Small lipo packs have come WAY down in cost, so the investment is the charger if you need a Lipo one.

Simply, save $$$ by fabing the little parts and buying hardware in bulk. Remember that screws can be cut. It is cheaper to buy a 100ct of longer screws and cutting them than it is to buy each size in little bags. This also lends flexibility in hardware choice. Delrin with threaded rod is STRONG, and slicker than aluminum links. ALSO CHEAPER ot build your own. Take the savings from these DIY projects, and invest in good electronics.

This about says it all, great tips. There need not be any more post after this one.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:03 PM   #10
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That McMaster Carr tip is great. I'll be using that in the future for sure.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:05 PM   #11
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Mcmaster Carr is awesome. As with any hobby, build from what you have. Try to always parts with a better quality part. In time you will have a very strong rig
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:26 PM   #12
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You could either buy new hardware or buy a new chassis. As for electronics don't skimp here. FXR combo would be an awsome choice. You can get it with either a 55t, 45t , or 35t motor. As for a servo I would highly suggest getting one that will put out 300oz or more. Bare minimum I would get if on a budget would be 250oz. For $100 you can get a HiTec 7955 and it will give you 333oz at 6v. Oh and as said above invest in an external BEC You ESC will thank you for it. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-28-2009, 06:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawlincircles View Post
If you are missing a bunch of screws this would be a great time to replace all of them with good quality allenhead hardware. The cheap Phillips head crap that comes from axial is not worth re buying.

There are a few company's that make hardware kits to replace every screw, nut, bolt etc.. on the AX10. try these guys http://www.rcscrewz.com/index.php

It will make your life much easier

That's the first thing I did to my son's crawler. I replaced all phillips screws with grade 12.9 hexhead screws from boltdepot.com.
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:31 AM   #14
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Axial ax10 is a good truck to start with with few tricks they can be turned into a good crawler
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:29 PM   #15
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Gotta agree rebuilding is the best way. I don't have alot to spend so mine is done on a budget. I use the crawler store for my stuff. They put the edge chassis on sale for 49.99. couldn't pass that up.
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:03 PM   #16
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Your best bet would be sending me your AX10 (i'll pay shipping, don't worry) and just start all over.
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