MX's SSS Build

[mxracer33x]

I picked up this SSS Roller from Dub599. First off hes a great person to deal with, and his work was very well done and thought out. Thanks Man! Here was his SSS Thread start of my SSS

SSS Chassis
AX10 Tranny
AX10 Axles, Vanquish Knuckles mounted BTA
Vanquish Dig w/Dub599 CF Servo Mount
MIP Rear Driveshaft
AX10 Hardened Front Drivehaft
Mayhem Double Fatty Wheels
HB Rovers - White
Tekin FXR
Tekin 55T Motor
CC BEC
Futaba S9156 Steering Servo
Hitec 225MG Dig Servo
Futaba R603FF and 3PM-MX

6lb 4oz

I bought the SSS and made some changes right off to get it freed up some more. I originally mounted my electronics on the rear axle like I had them on my AX-10 RTC. I moved the front upper links and changed the front body mounts to a single centered mount so the body could remain low and not limit articulation due to my battery pack size and location. Lipos are definitly in order, just need to find a good deal on an AC/DC Hyperion.

The rear body mounts were taken out by repeated flops. I made some new ones out of some thicker styrene instead of the CF. They added a bit more rigidity to the rear of the chassis as well. It twisted alot with the original mount setup and it seemed to hurt the steep climbing performance when the rear would want to suck up to the surface and lighten the front.

I made some changes to Dubs original front mount for the electronics and moved them back up there. I was hoping to lose some weightin the process but it balanced out, except it is moved forward, again helping the climbing. NOw I need to find a way to make a new front body mount. I will likely put a post between the ESC and RX, but I will have to work on the plates mounting to keep it from being rotated down when it flops. Upper link placement keeps me from making some dual outboarded mounts. If I go to Lipo I may be able to use some Stock style AX10 mounts (horizontal through door panels).

A couple pics and a short video for fun. The fist vid segment shows how important the line choice is, then I hit it better than I ever have, so it makes it look damn easy, but still very steep. (Yes the camera is level, that damn tree is forked at the base.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFf2bX7wnxk

[TSK]

The rig lokks good, but something about the way it looks in that video doesn't look right.

For one it doesn't seem to be articulating very well. Your torsion rods look like they are in the right place. But try double checking how tight the bolts are on the axle end. if the axle can't swing freely when the uppers aren't attached, they are limiting your flex. Also try moving your rear uppers to the inside of the chassis side plates. Looks like your body moount setup may interfere at the moment. But I really think your rear upper link setup is hindering your chassis' ability to flex.flex.

Also you say the rear was sucking down too much. Try messing with your anti squat by adjusting your rear uppers. you already have them above the rear link plate, so maybe try lowering it a hole on the chassis side. this should help on climbs without stiffening up the articulation. don't over do it though, cause it will start to make the rear of the SSS to bounce.

Again this is just my thoughts, if you like the way it's working, then stick with it. if not, try some of my suggestions out.

[mxracer33x]

I greatly appreciate it. My next plan is to start playing with the 4 link geometry to tune it alot better. I have all the torsion rods free, I check every pack incase the bolts get bent and bind or the nuts loosen up to much. I like the low profile chassis, but it limits body mounting options so much that it is hard to get the mounts in a place taht doesnt interfere with link placement. Ideallly I would like to be bale to move the links around without having to unbolt anything else. definitly high on my to do list.

Your suggestions are very helpful, as I was going to draw out and photograph all the mounting points and make a new thread to document the changes of each link placement, since the SSS is a little different from a standard 4 link with the torsion bars, and I havent found much good info on link placement for different scenerios on the SSS.

[TSK]

Glad to help. I jsut used the stock body posts mounted to one of the higher upper link holes on the chassis. At some point, it may cause a hang up, but it's been ok so far. You should do a search for Gunnar's SSS build. He had a pretty good body mount system that allowed the body to tilt left to right to help when the axles flex. I think he said he was gonna start selling his body mounting kit too.

[mxracer33x]

Thats how I had the front mounted. I re did the rear mounts to a single like that, and moved the links around. I want to work on the front but My hand argued with my grider and some sheet metal. So my 3 primary figers are all wrapped in gauze for a few days. Makes handling the small bits and pieces near impossible so Ill prolly fiish the skid for the RTC so my daughter can wheel it a bit. Ill try to get some good pics of the front link setup and see what I may need to do.

[mxracer33x]

I was having some issues wit hte front unloading and the rear squatting while climbing steep walls. I took a video a week ago but never got it uploaded. I would be interested in hearing what some of yo umay think about the way the front end just would not cling to the rock like it should.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2SJFrcEqFQ

I think I have since fixed the issue. I reworked the front end a bit and it seems to be better but no real testing until later today. I found the right front lower link was a hair short and thah had the "spring rate" of that torsion arm pretty high. Making hte link perfectly equal made it nice and smooth. I also lowered the mounting position a few MM on the uppers axle mount.

I took the 2 weights I had added to the rear wheels back out, they didnt do anythign really except make it heavier. (.4oz each bearing - .8oz each wheel...meh)

Im very interested in making this thing lighter and trying it out. I may have to sell these wheels to make it happen though. My front wheel/tires weigh in at 14oz each and the rears are 12.5oz. If I went with a SLW Im estimating I would loose about 6oz per wheel and that would put me in at about 4lb 10oz. I may mount up my rovers on some stock axial wheels to see what I can come up with for testing.

Edit:I also found when I was taking out the rear wheel weights I had not yet drilled the wheels, so that helped a little as well.

[TSK]

i would mess with the rear uppers to get more anti squat. don't over do it though as the rear will become very bouncy. Also try stiffer rear foams. iIn that video, it's nearly vertical, it's gonna be hard to not have so much rear traction that it'll want to flip. But yeah try your stock wheels and go from there.

[Rocks R. Good]

Good start, If ya lose those wheels for just about anything else you'll be doing good.
Sell em in the classifieds and pick up some used DNA's, Eritrex comp heavies , or something if your low on funds.
Don't get attached to your link or torsion placement until you change your wheels, losing a pound or more will cause you to change everthing, everthing......then you'll see what this rig is really capable of

[mxracer33x]

Ive gopt a set of stock axial Beadlocks I may mount up to try out the lighter weight. I just spent $100 on a Hyperion an 4 Lipos so the wheels will have to wait. Unless my Durango sells, then I may just do it.

[TSK]

Originally Posted by mxracer33x

Ive gopt a set of stock axial Beadlocks I may mount up to try out the lighter weight. I just spent $100 on a Hyperion an 4 Lipos so the wheels will have to wait. Unless my Durango sells, then I may just do it.

$100 for a hyperion and 4 lipos sounds like a deal.

[mxracer33x]

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

$100 for a hyperion and 4 lipos sounds like a deal.

Definitly, I had to do it. The lipos package so much better thant the 7 2/3A cells I have now. But I dont know if 3S is a good idea, I broke 2 Inner Cs yesterday (both right side, no more spares ), time for an upgrade.

Ive decided to get the U-Locks, then I can have them forever, never having to worry about being stuck with an offset I cant use, or wanting narrower or wider. Ill clean up the CDPs and list them up as soon as I can get the rovers mounted on my Axial locks.


edit, although.... I can be at 5.5lbs with some DNA thrashers for $58, or 4.75lbs for $132.....decisions, decisions.

[TSK]

I love 3s! Especially with a 35 turn and 87/20 geareing. Muahahaha

[Rocks R. Good]

Wheelspeed? Yea

87/20, really? I'm at 87/14 and thought it was fast 35 turn warrior though!

[TSK]

Originally Posted by Rocks R. Good

Wheelspeed? Yea

87/20, really? I'm at 87/14 and thought it was fast 35 turn warrior though!

Yup it's a hoot. When the drag brake hits, it'll almost endo. haha

[mxracer33x]

So I mounted up my Rovers on my Stock AX wheels. Left 3 oz on the front wheels, nothing on the rears. 5 lbs even.

It works extremely well. Sidehills much better and has that jump to it to get over some of the lips I couldnt drag over before.

Sold the Durango today, so I ordered a set of Aluminim U-Locks and some Aluminum Inner C's. Next week will be like christmas with wheels, inners and new Lipos and charger. To bad the forecast is calling for rain from Monday until eternity.

The old (is less than 15 packs old?) Mayhems are up in the Classifieds.

[TSK]

Now that you got her to lose 1.4 lbs, you're gonna break alot less. You should just give the aluminum c's to me

You shoud try and take the lead out of the stock beadies. The u-locks are so narrow you might have a hard time putting weight in them, so now would be the time to see how she handles (balance wise) without added weight in the wheels.

[mxracer33x]

The stock with 3oz weight was 4.9oz. So the U-Locks will be a bit heavier then a bare stock wheel. I was going to match weights, but since I couldnt match widths its prolly not worth messing with till I get the U-Locks in. I cant wait, but its supposed to rain/snow on monday and then rain the rest of the week. And IM at ~200ft elevation :crazy:

[TSK]

You should try running the u-locks at a skinny width. The way it swells the tire allows for fantasitc grip. Foams become a little tricky though.

[mxracer33x]

2.6oz complete @ .5"
3.2oz complete @ .75"

[mxracer33x]

Now at 4lb 15oz. on the first day The rear didnt want to flex much, measured at home, the rear didnt have enough weight to stay planted, so I started adjusting the links to free it up some more. right now my uppers are parallel. It works but Im going to try a few other setups first. Mainly try moving the uppers to the outside of the sideplates and triangulating them back in at the axle. I need one more scale to see what my weight bias is, hopefully this weekend I can get it measured.

New U-Locks look great. I set the front up @ .75" with the added ring on the outside. the rears are on the inside. Ill measure the track width tonite. The front couldnt be setup like the rears without major tire rub on the torsion arms. Smaller tires may be ok.

the 2nd picture is of the course I have started in the backyard. I plan on alot more of hte granite and lava cap, then the far section of recycled concrete and bricks will be fillled in as I find it on CL. Illl make a few stands with a bunch of old barn wood Ive collected. Hopefully Ill get a big pile of rock and organize a work/crawl party and get it all setup.