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Thread: AX10 as a Comp 2.2 Worth it?

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Old 02-04-2010, 11:19 AM   #1
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Default AX10 as a Comp 2.2 Worth it?

Okay after being severely outclassed in my first 2.2 comp in Sportsman class as my wheelbase does not fit USRCCA rules...I am deciding whether or not to sell my AX10 in favor of another rig?

I setup my AX10 with ebay parts ripped off an AX10 RTR rock racer...so 27T motor with stock ESC/RX/TX. Now that I want to get into comp crawling I have 2 choices and about $300 budget:

1. Put in another $300 into my AX10...the only hop ups I have are HB Rovers and memory foams...looking into a 55T motor/Rooster combo.

2. Get another rig (Losi Comp Crawler) or any other suggestions?
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:27 AM   #2
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you will go way over your budget getting a LCC ready to run. stick the $300 in the axial in the right parts and you'll have a great rig
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:38 AM   #3
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the axial really don't need a lot of hop ups to be completive on a local level... i changed shocks and tires and ran a goat system and did really well with it... learn how to drive the rig you have then move up
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:47 AM   #4
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I am currently in the same situation you are...I am going to bump up to a berg or bully...I am competing with a few sponsered guys and am getting an ave. of 100pts more than them during a comp. I know that you need to know your rig and all but Ive been using my scorpion for a year or so and am tired of slow digs and TT...good luck either way but to compete at the top you must run the best...
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:00 PM   #5
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My AX10 is pretty built, and the local guys with Bergs make it look absolutely stupid...just an opinion.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:08 PM   #6
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I would not run the rooster combo as it can only use a 2s lipo just get a sidewinder and an integy 35 or 45t motor, it would cost the same amount but with the castle being able to handle 3s and its programability make it 10x better than the rooster imo.
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:41 PM   #7
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Vanquish Products Incision Chassis
Losi 4" Crawler shocks or use the axials and tune them well
Tekin FxR ESC
Castle Creations BEC
Dig if you don't have it
The strongest servo you can afford, but you will need aluminum knuckles to handle the torque
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:00 PM   #8
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Excellent question! I have been wondering the same thing. I went and checked out the Axial comp at Lake Wholford CA and would have been embarassed to bring my Scorpion out, even though I have sunk quite a bit of money into it. Those guys rigs performed insane! Been thinking about ditching the Scorpion for something else but I'm on a budget and really do like my Scorpion. Plus I wouldn't know where to begin building some of the rigs I saw competing. NEWB!!!! lol
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:12 PM   #9
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would say keep it and spend the 300 on better electronics and a chasis

for me most of the stock stuff worked basicly the same as some after market things. Only things that I think need changing are the chassis, tires, electronics, four link the rear, and cvds for the front.
I started with the rtc and love the shocks, I dont know about the rtr or kit shocks.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solomon7 View Post
Vanquish Products Incision Chassis
Losi 4" Crawler shocks or use the axials and tune them well
Tekin FxR ESC
Castle Creations BEC
Dig if you don't have it
The strongest servo you can afford, but you will need aluminum knuckles to handle the torque

Do this and the sidewinder speed control, a 55 turn motor and get the weight down low. Then your just relaying on your driving and tweaks.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:26 PM   #11
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Not only do you want to 4 link the rear, but do the front, too. Make sure you get a good chassis w/ triangulated skid, and when you do the 4 link, make the top links parallel...as wide at the axle as at the chassis. Then good electronics will go a long way. For a budget, I'd suggest a CC Sidewinder, CC BEC, and Integy V11 35t. Get a good set of shocks (which will depend on the chassis you use), and then spend as much as you can on steering servo. Get the weight low & tune the torque twist out of it and you'd be amazed at what it can do.

I've seen a couple Axials that were very capable. Many people have just moved on due to the increased availability of the Losi, bergs, and Bully's.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:41 PM   #12
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Yes an AX10 can be made to perform as well, if not better than a berg. It's all about setup and drivetime, of course skill helps too
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:18 PM   #13
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How long is your wheelbase? And sportsman might be a bit more competetive since you need to rely on your driving ability more than your actual rig (i.e. read/setup your lines better especially since you can't use dig. And with an LCC, you'll definitely need to go with a brushless setup to get the most out of it. More steering angle will be super beneficial in sportsman class, so you might want to look into some axial cvd's and high clearance knuckles. And be sure to ppick up some of gunnar's replacement cvd pins.

As for the esc, Go for the FXR over the Rooster, yes because it can handle 3s, which you'll eventually do at some point. And you can order the FXR with the 35t or 45t motor. The 55 will be too slow and you'll wish you had the wheelspeed of the 35t.

Last edited by TSK; 02-04-2010 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:52 PM   #14
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Got a picture of your truck? Just curious as to why your wheelbase is not legal. You really shouldn't have to sink a ton of cash into your rig for Sportman's......that the whole point of that class.

I bet with a little reading, and a little tinkering you could have a decent truck that will fit the rules of the class, and still have money left over.
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Old 02-04-2010, 06:34 PM   #15
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If all ya got is $300 ya can get a servo and esc that can transfer to another rig down the road along with some simple upgrades and learn to drive your axial. Then ya can move up to a berg down the road.
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:07 PM   #16
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Ok, about the Axial. I have a buddy who didn't know if he wanted to get serious about competitions, so wanted a budget comp rig. I did the following to his axial:

- Moved the lower links inside the chassis by modding the stock skid.
- cut off the top of the factory chassis, just above the body mounts.
- mounted a piece of light weight angle aluminum along the top of each chassis plate to extend the shock mounts outward.
- put on a set of Losi Crawler shocks w/ white springs.
- mirrored the transmission, so motor was mounted in the front on the right side.
- built my own rear 4 link plate to allow parallel top links
- built my own servo mount/4 link plate for the front to allow parallel top links, servo and nimh batteries... 12 cells!
- installed a JR robotic servo, CC Sidewinder ESC, CC BEC, and a Holmes 35t handwound motor...all were mounted as low as possible.

He ran a set of ProLine Hammers on stock wheels & took 3rd in the comp. He was the only one in the comp without dig, and there were even a couple bergs!
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:04 PM   #17
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Man, if you can't get an Axial to compete with a Berg, then go buy a Berg.

Or, nut up, get smart, and learn to drive.

Or, don't worry about the Bergs and have fun with what'cha brung.

I came in next to last in my first comp (out of 10 or 12) and that was only because the guy in last place broke and got a DNF. Three comps later after alot of research, some smart mods, and alot (and I mean alot) of practice I was knocking on the MOA's doors.
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:15 PM   #18
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i run an AX based rig. with a custome chassis. cut and turned aluminum knuckles, DNA dig, SC10 shocks, MIP shafts. integy steel tranny gears and outputs. HB rovers. and a crazy strong servo.

a bunch of guys locally switched to a Bully based MOA rig's. i can still hang with them. i came in second last comp.

IMO a good driver, strong servo and a well tuned rig is the BEST mod you can do.

make sure you can steer the truck then start playing with wheel weights chassis height and link mounts. and if running droop try elastics on the shocks to combat torque twist.

then practice.
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:36 AM   #19
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an axial rig if set up and drivin properly can be a comp winning rig even against MOA. i can get my axial to do things that the bergs struggle at.
iu have been told by a ton of people to learn to drive the axial first. than once you decide to step to moa, you will be that much better of a driver. a kick butt rig is only as good as its driver.
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Old 02-05-2010, 03:13 AM   #20
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I was the same way. I was over my Axial and was ready to get a Berg, but money was, and is still tight. So I stuck it out and asked alot of questions. I now am just getting to know my rig and I'm running better than ever. You just have to get some seat time and feel how your rig performs.
Example:
I thought the answer to all my axial/shafty problems was a dig. Got a dig, ran it. Ran worse than I ever did with just the regular setup. Took it off and now just getting how I like it. Now I am slowly learing how it will drive with a dig. Time, that's all it takes.
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