RCCrawler Forums

Phylodog · 02-13-2010, 01:53 PM

I participated in my first competition today. I enjoyed it but let my competitive side come out a bit and became frustrated. I made some delrin links this week as the brake line over threaded rod links I made previously didn't last through a 20 minute practice session. Today was the first time I walked out of the Rox Box with a fully operational truck so that's a bonus.

Now for the bad: My truck does not turn. Does not, at all, turn when I tell it to. I need about a 12' diameter area to turn around on slick concrete. So I need to make some major changes and I'm looking for advice on the absolute best setup. BTA or no? High steer knuckles & who's are best? I have a set of Integy (I believe) knuckles now, stock C's and a JR 8711 servo fed through a CC BEC.

I'm running a set of Mayhem Double Phatty's (6 weight bearings in the front, none in the rear) and white dot Rovers (vented) with stock foams. It seemed to be rolling the front tires under a bit too much so I either need different foams or I need to reduce weight. I'm planning to sipe the Rovers in hopes of getting better purchase on the rocks as the truck was pushing bad all day.

Any and all advice is welcome.

Greatscott · 02-13-2010, 02:28 PM

A dig would help a lot for turning shaper...

C*H*U*D · 02-13-2010, 02:45 PM

What does your caster look like on your front axle? If you have your front pinion clocked up for clearance, you may be running into problems with your steering geometry.

Phylodog · 02-13-2010, 02:53 PM

I plan to run a dig eventually but I'm still new to crawling and want to get a good foundation running sportsman right now.

I don't think I have any issues with the pinion angle. It's clocked up but ever so slightly. I might pick up a hair more if I leveled it out but I don't think it would be near enough. I know there are mods and parts that I could add to increase my radius. I'm willing to spend the time and money, just don't want to do something only to find out that there was a better option I should have gone with.

Thanks for the suggestions

Rocks R. Good · 02-13-2010, 04:01 PM

We need pictures. It sounds like your maxing out your stock dogbones.

oldhippie · 02-13-2010, 04:21 PM

Put faster gears in the front and/or slower gears in the rear. Some caster is a good thing too. Ya can only get so much steering out of the dogbones (a little more with cvds) but messing with the linkage can help.

Duuuuuuuude · 02-13-2010, 04:23 PM

UD gears in the back will help.

Mod your drive cups to get more steering * out of them.

BTA might help steering a bit since you don't have to worry about hitting the pumkin with your linkage.

Check you alignment. If the wheels are toed in or out too far, you'll lose steering ability.

Caster will also hurt it. If the bolts for your knuckles aren't straight up and down, there'll be issues.

Phylodog · 02-13-2010, 04:41 PM

Thanks guys. I'm planning on grinding the cups this week and I will see if I can get away with getting the pinion angle horizontal.

Slower gear in the rear might be a good idea, where should I look to buy them?

jcboof · 02-13-2010, 05:02 PM

Sorry I couldn't be there today to help ya out. The next time I'm head down to Indianapolis, I'll spend some time with ya on your rig.

Like the others here have said, running over/underdrive gears will help dramatically by slowing down the rear axle in relation to the front in a sense acting a little like a dig!. But there really is only so much usable steering in the AX10 axles. A dig would help greatly though.

Phylodog · 02-13-2010, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcboof

Sorry I couldn't be there today to help ya out. The next time I'm head down to Indianapolis, I'll spend some time with ya on your rig.

Like the others here have said, running over/underdrive gears will help dramatically by slowing down the rear axle in relation to the front in a sense acting a little like a dig!. But there really is only so much usable steering in the AX10 axles. A dig would help greatly though.

Much appreciated, I'm sure we'll see one another before too long and I'll most certainly have issues that need addressing when that happens, lol...

Here is the only pic I currently have of the front end. I can take a few more tomorrow if needed.

indiana mudcat · 02-13-2010, 05:09 PM

I think I looked at your truck and showed you my BTA today, grinding the cups will help, countersinking your front C screws will help to. The Axial underdrive rear gears will help steering and reduce torque twist, RPP and TCS should both have them. On the caster you want your C's straight up or leaned back a little. Wheelspeed helps to spin around on the slick floor also.

jcboof · 02-13-2010, 05:19 PM

One thing you might consider is a LONGER servo arm. I run a Robotronic Heavy Duty servo arm on both my Bully and my Berg. I'm not sure where to get them anymore though, RCPCRAWLERS.COM is where I normally got them but they are out of stock right now. But the Integy Servo arm is basically the same! A longer servo arm allows for more servo throw. which means more steering!

you get get them here---> http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=INTC22942BL

I order alot of stuff from myatomic and if you order more than 25 bucks worth of stuff they have free shipping!

Phylodog · 02-13-2010, 05:56 PM

Sounds good. I will look into one once I change things up a bit. Right now I'm hitting the pumpkin so it wouldn't do me any good but after I correct that it will.

mhann · 02-14-2010, 07:18 AM

phylodog, didn't get to see any of your run's yesterday, but a couple of thing's I did to help the steering on my axial.

1: look's like you have the high clearance spindle's, put a 1/16 .062 spacer
under the tierod , helps with clearance at punkin.

2: drag link , attach to servo arm in hole that is 3/4" from servo output hole
more torque. you can turn your EPA up to get travel back.

3: drag link, run a longer link to the right side spindle and space it so it is parellel to tierod, it will stay flat thru it's in travel and transmit all torque into
moving the tire's not lifting the link.

4: king pins lay them back 3-4 deg approx .050-.062, the tires will lay over 3-4 deg when you turn this will help as well.
like other's have said cut the drive cup's down .032 and then cut a little more of a bevel in the cup as well or try some MIP cvd's
Like jesse said look us up next time we'll be happy to help.

Phylodog · 02-14-2010, 08:11 AM

Thanks! Looks like I've got plenty to do this week...

02-13-2010, 01:53 PM	#1
Phylodog Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 298	Ran my first comp today I participated in my first competition today. I enjoyed it but let my competitive side come out a bit and became frustrated. I made some delrin links this week as the brake line over threaded rod links I made previously didn't last through a 20 minute practice session. Today was the first time I walked out of the Rox Box with a fully operational truck so that's a bonus. Now for the bad: My truck does not turn. Does not, at all, turn when I tell it to. I need about a 12' diameter area to turn around on slick concrete. So I need to make some major changes and I'm looking for advice on the absolute best setup. BTA or no? High steer knuckles & who's are best? I have a set of Integy (I believe) knuckles now, stock C's and a JR 8711 servo fed through a CC BEC. I'm running a set of Mayhem Double Phatty's (6 weight bearings in the front, none in the rear) and white dot Rovers (vented) with stock foams. It seemed to be rolling the front tires under a bit too much so I either need different foams or I need to reduce weight. I'm planning to sipe the Rovers in hopes of getting better purchase on the rocks as the truck was pushing bad all day. Any and all advice is welcome.

02-13-2010, 02:28 PM	#2
Greatscott I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: North Idaho Posts: 3,648	A dig would help a lot for turning shaper...

02-13-2010, 02:45 PM	#3
CHU*D No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO Posts: 4,529	What does your caster look like on your front axle? If you have your front pinion clocked up for clearance, you may be running into problems with your steering geometry.

02-13-2010, 02:53 PM	#4
Phylodog Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 298	I plan to run a dig eventually but I'm still new to crawling and want to get a good foundation running sportsman right now. I don't think I have any issues with the pinion angle. It's clocked up but ever so slightly. I might pick up a hair more if I leveled it out but I don't think it would be near enough. I know there are mods and parts that I could add to increase my radius. I'm willing to spend the time and money, just don't want to do something only to find out that there was a better option I should have gone with. Thanks for the suggestions

02-13-2010, 04:01 PM	#5
Rocks R. Good Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Fredericksburg Posts: 250	We need pictures. It sounds like your maxing out your stock dogbones.

02-13-2010, 04:21 PM	#6
oldhippie I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: 20 miles southeeast of downtown Sacramento Posts: 2,373	Put faster gears in the front and/or slower gears in the rear. Some caster is a good thing too. Ya can only get so much steering out of the dogbones (a little more with cvds) but messing with the linkage can help.

02-13-2010, 04:23 PM	#7
Duuuuuuuude Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 11,652	UD gears in the back will help. Mod your drive cups to get more steering * out of them. BTA might help steering a bit since you don't have to worry about hitting the pumkin with your linkage. Check you alignment. If the wheels are toed in or out too far, you'll lose steering ability. Caster will also hurt it. If the bolts for your knuckles aren't straight up and down, there'll be issues.

02-13-2010, 04:41 PM	#8
Phylodog Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 298	Thanks guys. I'm planning on grinding the cups this week and I will see if I can get away with getting the pinion angle horizontal. Slower gear in the rear might be a good idea, where should I look to buy them?

02-13-2010, 05:02 PM	#9
jcboof I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy Posts: 2,238	Sorry I couldn't be there today to help ya out. The next time I'm head down to Indianapolis, I'll spend some time with ya on your rig. Like the others here have said, running over/underdrive gears will help dramatically by slowing down the rear axle in relation to the front in a sense acting a little like a dig!. But there really is only so much usable steering in the AX10 axles. A dig would help greatly though.

02-13-2010, 05:09 PM	#11
indiana mudcat RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: reelsville Posts: 1,871	I think I looked at your truck and showed you my BTA today, grinding the cups will help, countersinking your front C screws will help to. The Axial underdrive rear gears will help steering and reduce torque twist, RPP and TCS should both have them. On the caster you want your C's straight up or leaned back a little. Wheelspeed helps to spin around on the slick floor also.

02-13-2010, 05:19 PM	#12
jcboof I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: I miss Rowdy Posts: 2,238	One thing you might consider is a LONGER servo arm. I run a Robotronic Heavy Duty servo arm on both my Bully and my Berg. I'm not sure where to get them anymore though, RCPCRAWLERS.COM is where I normally got them but they are out of stock right now. But the Integy Servo arm is basically the same! A longer servo arm allows for more servo throw. which means more steering! you get get them here---> http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=INTC22942BL I order alot of stuff from myatomic and if you order more than 25 bucks worth of stuff they have free shipping!

Sponsored Links

02-13-2010, 05:56 PM	#13
Phylodog Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 298	Sounds good. I will look into one once I change things up a bit. Right now I'm hitting the pumpkin so it wouldn't do me any good but after I correct that it will.

02-14-2010, 07:18 AM	#14
mhann Newbie Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: shelbyville Posts: 47	phylodog, didn't get to see any of your run's yesterday, but a couple of thing's I did to help the steering on my axial. 1: look's like you have the high clearance spindle's, put a 1/16 .062 spacer under the tierod , helps with clearance at punkin. 2: drag link , attach to servo arm in hole that is 3/4" from servo output hole more torque. you can turn your EPA up to get travel back. 3: drag link, run a longer link to the right side spindle and space it so it is parellel to tierod, it will stay flat thru it's in travel and transmit all torque into moving the tire's not lifting the link. 4: king pins lay them back 3-4 deg approx .050-.062, the tires will lay over 3-4 deg when you turn this will help as well. like other's have said cut the drive cup's down .032 and then cut a little more of a bevel in the cup as well or try some MIP cvd's Like jesse said look us up next time we'll be happy to help.

02-14-2010, 08:11 AM	#15
Phylodog Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 298	Thanks! Looks like I've got plenty to do this week...

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