ARTR mods, what do you think?

[Coops]

I was able to tie wrap the electronics to the side of the frame so I could lose the top battery plate. It's not heavy but it makes it easier to work on stuff.

Trying to get 4-link plates from the hobby stores here would take some time and it's not as free as drilling some holes in the battery plate, made a huge difference in reducing TT even with the white springs. Now that I have a small chunk of spare aluminum I could make a new bigger plate but this works.

I didn't feel up to the challenge to build my own bta so I picked up the axial one and made my own 4-link plate. The front 4-link keeps the right front tire down that much better than 4-link rear and 3-link front. I also put on a new servo (hitec hs7955tg) much better than the old 645mg. I also upped the voltage to 6.5Vdc on the bec, although I think stock with the new servo would have still worked well.


My goal with the lower links was to try and get the body side closer and tucked in. It seemed to work ok.


I was using Panther Cougar's with the stock memory foam but the side walls seem too soft. I've got some of the proline dual stage foams on order so hopefully that helps. I forgot how much less traction the hammers have then the cougars.

At any rate it's been fun tinkering on. What do you guys think?

[Crawling Calvin]

Wow nice work man Just a few suggestions

#1 Try making a plate (or buying one) for the front links to put the lipo in the front, if you don't do the zip ties to tight it will work good

#2 try moving your lower links out so the rod end is on the outside of the mount (facing the tires) that will give it more triangulation and help with TT .

#3 Keep up the good work The wiring in there is good, any vids!

I think the dual stage foams should work better with the cougars, i have rovers with the stock foams and sometimes I think they are a bit on the to soft side... never know till you try

[Coops]

I think the lipo will be a bit big for the link plate. I'd have to ride it over the servo me thinks. Or get a smaller one with a higher C rating.

I'll try and mess with the links again.
Thanks for the tips!

D

[Crawling Calvin]

One other thing I noticed was down low where the links mount to the chassis you can use some button head screws so they don't get hung up on the rocks (yep been there done that ) I think a 1,000 mah range lipo at 25+C should do the trick nicely for you. I use(d) a 1050 mah 20C 3S and it seemed to be lacking at times when I needed the amps, even though it ran slower, my 1450 2S at 30-40C (I am pretty sure) did the trick of giving the amps I need and its over a year old at that Check your LHS/Hobby City for lipos on the cheap, good ones are Rhino, Zippy (tad more expensive...) and Turnergy (i think i spelled it wrong ) I think that should do it with suggestions for now

[Coops]

I put my fluke clamp on on my batt and tried to really work it, wedged in in the stairs..... The max draw/burst on my thunderpower 2200mha 3S was just a hair under 30A. Burning up the carpet and messing around crawling slow I could only get it to max out around 5A.

The lhs has some thunderpower pro-lite 910mha for $36. They're good for 18A cont. and 36 burst. I can't see there being much difference than the one I have in there now?

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by Coops

I put my fluke clamp on on my batt and tried to really work it, wedged in in the stairs..... The max draw/burst on my thunderpower 2200mha 3S was just a hair under 30A. Burning up the carpet and messing around crawling slow I could only get it to max out around 5A.

The lhs has some thunderpower pro-lite 910mha for $36. They're good for 18A cont. and 36 burst. I can't see there being much difference than the one I have in there now?

Weight is the only real difference... that is all, if it works good as it is, keep it that way. I run a smaller lipo and it seems to do just fine, if you can the higher C batteries (more $...) tend to do a better job since crawling is more about peak amps vs. continuous like running a car in speed runs... thats all

[liverkiller1]

[QUOTE=Crawling Calvin;2405357] the higher C batteries (more $...) /QUOTE]

no really i have 30c 1300mah 3s for 15 a piece and last forever

[Crawling Calvin]

I meant if he stuck with the brand he has If you shop around you can find some good ones for cheap, thats for sure

[Coops]

I updated a couple of the pics. The battery looks like a monster. I still haven't found a good way to mount it without over hang on the front axle or mounting it up on the servo and increasing the centre of gravity.

Moving the lower axle side links out really helped with TT.

[K.O.M.]

That battery is huge. You must be able to run for 1.5 hours--straight
At least that's how much I could get with my 3000mAh stick pack...you actually might be able to go for longer.

Seriously, I have seen the light--quite literally--with small airplane Li-Po packs. I currently have a 850mAh 45c 3s and it's good for just under half an hour. Work it out and it's good for about 38 amps continuous and an advertised 70 amps burst. About a 1/3 the size of the pack pictured for $35. I bought two and am happy as a clam as to how much run time I have.