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08-02-2010, 05:06 PM
| #1 |
| Suck it up!   Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
|  duuuuuuuude's F4
A few months ago I stepped away from my droop chassis to go to a more traditional sprung setup. Since I'm usually a "build it, not buy it" kind of guy, naturally I drew up a few ideas of my own, but I really liked all the things Juan offered with his F series. One PP transaction later, I had my hands on a green F4. The parts list is nothing too unusual other than the Losi driveshafts, which I've really come to like. Here's the equipment: 5955tg steering servo HS-59mg dig servo HH 35t Pro handwound Robinson output/gear Wheelworks 1911 wheels/Sedonas/CI foams React tx/Spektrum sr300 rx Losi CC driveshafts & shocks/white springs UD gears out back LD bta Axial aluminum C's & knuckles Eritex dig Duratrax 64t 32p spur Traxxas 13t 32p pinion Proline bug body held on by Gunnars body mounts From the minute I had this rig assembled, I loved it. After spending a year struggling with a crazy forward biased droop setup, going sprung was super easy to set up and drive. Everything about the F4 is great, from the powdercoated plates, to the upper link adjustment, to the skid that covers the entire width of the chassis. Even the price is right. Absolutely no complaints.    You'll notice the rear sits higher than the front. To me this seems to help verticle climbs and breakovers. The shocks are limited internally in the front, and externally in the rear. All use 40wt oil. The spur is a tight fit, but doesn't rub.  Itty bitty dig servo. A standard size will fit. Barely.  LD battery/servo tray with custom servo guard made from aluminum angle. Notice the wishbone shaped upper links needed to clear the shocks since they are mounted outside the chassis. Steering is maxed out here, using ground down stock cups and axle shafts.  Grooved the skid just a hair, and it looks like I lost a bolt too.  Links are delrin with Revo ends.  Always on the hunt for better TT fighting geometry, I took a cue from DickyT's build and it worked wonders. However, I didn't like the stress put on the rod end when they were horizontal, so I whipped up a mount that would put them verticle.  I had originally wanted the FF-4, but it wouldn't fit a Puller or a Puller 500. As luck would have it, shortly after I had the F-4 in my hands (which the 500 WILL fit into) I decided I wanted something a bit smoother on the startup and went with HH's 35t handwound instead. I love it, but miss the wheelspeed of the Pullers. So there you have it. Comments, questions, and suggestions are always welcome, good or bad, and thanks for looking.  Last edited by Duuuuuuuude; 08-03-2010 at 11:09 AM. |
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08-02-2010, 05:11 PM
| #2 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 1,349
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Wow that spur gear clearence is amazing. I like the green on it, good job |
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08-02-2010, 06:48 PM
| #3 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
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Great looking build Duuuuuuuude! I have the same front to rear angle. I achieved mine a little different using VP Razors on the rear, but the result is the same, and for the same reasons I love that rear plate you made! I am all too familiar with the spur clearance. My FF-4 was the same way. I have a bit more room in the Fastback do to the offset on the upper plates. |
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08-02-2010, 06:57 PM
| #4 |
| No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
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This makes me want to work on my F-4 again. I need to look into this rear link spacing that you and Richard seem to be so fond of. And what are you two talking about?!? There's plenty of room in there |
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08-02-2010, 06:58 PM
| #5 | |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 1,349
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08-02-2010, 07:10 PM
| #6 |
| Sometimes, I make things.   Join Date: May 2009 Location: Mt. Upton
Posts: 1,043
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Great looking truck, the stance looks really good. I like the rear axles link mount too, nice work there.
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08-02-2010, 07:12 PM
| #7 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Scumrise, Flooriduh
Posts: 5,181
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08-02-2010, 07:29 PM
| #8 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: middle of maine
Posts: 92
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i had to grind a slot outta the chassis for the spur on my f4.... but its a great lil chassis works rather well... its the 4th and final chassis ive had on my crawlers... if i was to build/convert another ax-10 it would be on a f4 chassis
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08-02-2010, 08:13 PM
| #9 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,927
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WOW! Nice work, stupid question, how are your losi shocks mounted  I got some and the stock bushings are a "tad annoying" that's all  Man you did a nice job of "stuffing it in there" that's the only downside to a smaller width car is less room to jam your keys, sandwich, and every other cheating item in there  |
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08-02-2010, 08:24 PM
| #10 | |||
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
| Quote:
Quote:
2. You should. 3. If it all fits, its fine. Quote:
Stuffing a skinny chassis has its rewards. | |||
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08-02-2010, 08:34 PM
| #11 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: ...in your meter box...
Posts: 616
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Awesome!...Looks dialed! I love the stance...like its ready to pounce. ...And killer 4 link mount. - |
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08-03-2010, 06:30 AM
| #12 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Falls, ID.
Posts: 539
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I see you have spacer between your shock mods how high dose that make the belly ?
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08-03-2010, 10:46 AM
| #13 | |
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Belly height is 2 3/4 at the front of the skid, and 3 at the rear. | |
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08-03-2010, 10:56 AM
| #14 |
| Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave  Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
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Those body mounts working OK for you? I know the low-profile nuts are probably slippery little suckers.
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08-03-2010, 11:07 AM
| #15 | |
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
| Quote:
The nuts aren't too bad with a minor modification. Basically I took a razor knife and made several deep scratches going from top to bottom. Its enough to give your fingers some traction when tightening/loosening. | |
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08-03-2010, 11:13 AM
| #16 |
| Ex Nor-CalRCRC slave Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Mateo, CA.
Posts: 2,242
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Yea, a couple of our local guys used a dremel sanding drum to create some ridges in them for better grip. I figured if they are tough to grab, the rocks couldn't grab them either!
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08-04-2010, 02:20 AM
| #17 |
| Shelf queen  Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Internet
Posts: 5,857
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If you miss wheelspeed, run the 32 pitch equivalent of 87/20 gearing. I had a 35t on 3s and it's way faster than a 10t with 87/14. Torque lacked but I was using a machine wound.
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08-04-2010, 04:19 AM
| #18 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Pasadena
Posts: 1,118
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So...a 3-pole 35t motor has better low end resolution than a 5-pole puller 500? Intriguing...
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08-04-2010, 05:41 AM
| #19 | |
| Suck it up! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
| Quote:
Unless my 500 is a freak of nature, yes. I would attribute that to the 35t's larger 9mm armature. | |
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08-04-2010, 07:49 AM
| #20 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Fortuna Calif.
Posts: 997
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Man your rig is loooking good! I have beeen following the FF-4 and F-4 builds on here and I think yours convinced me the pull the trigger on an F-4 . Nice |
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