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Old 11-01-2010, 09:01 PM   #1
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Default torque twist?

just picked up another ax10 and hooked it all up and it seems to have some hard twist when you hit it full throttle, will it help when i throw some weight in the front tires? (planed on it) my old ax10 didnt seem to have this problem but it had aluminum wheels and was setup different but cant tell you how as im drawing off memory from a year ago and PBR pretty much took care of that any help would be great thanks
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:04 PM   #2
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Do you have a four link set up?
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:21 PM   #3
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Tons of ways to combat TT.

1. flip your transmission around backwards.
2. Get rid of the 3 link setup, and drill some holes to connect a 4 link setup.
3. If running the lower plastic links, get rid of them and create your own out of Delrin or Aluminum.
4. Gear your front diff a bit faster than your rear diff.

This will get you started.
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS View Post
1. flip your transmission around backwards.
This: Mirror Imaged Transmission
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:38 PM   #5
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I do agree that this is a better solution IF you plan to stay sportsman, as it keeps the motor weight up front. However, if one choses to install a dig at some point, the flip is the better option.

Casey
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC_JoNeS View Post
Tons of ways to combat TT.

1. flip your transmission around backwards.
2. Get rid of the 3 link setup, and drill some holes to connect a 4 link setup.
3. If running the lower plastic links, get rid of them and create your own out of Delrin or Aluminum.
4. Gear your front diff a bit faster than your rear diff.

This will get you started.
i planed on over driving the front, it has the 4 link in the rear front is still 3 link, has bent metal links front and rear
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:50 PM   #7
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Alright....turn the tranny skid around. DONE!
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:52 PM   #8
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However, if one choses to install a dig at some point, the flip is the better option.
At that point, it's the only option. You have to.
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:32 PM   #9
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Alright....turn the tranny skid around. DONE!
is that all you have to do or do you do as above and take tranny apart and mirror it?
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Old 11-03-2010, 01:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poorboypulling View Post
is that all you have to do or do you do as above and take tranny apart and mirror it?
It depends on how the tranny was originally built. If the motor mount is on the left and the motor is facing forward you can just rotate the skid 180 degrees. If the mount is on the left and the motor is facing backwards you need to take the tranny apart and mirror it and rotate the skid 180 degrees.

4 link the rear as well, 3 linked will continue to twist regardless what other steps you take.

Last edited by DickyT; 11-03-2010 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 11-03-2010, 01:45 PM   #11
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It depends on how the tranny was originally built. If the motor mount is on the left and the motor is facing forward you can just rotate the skid 180 degrees. If the mount is on the left and the motor is facing backwards you need to take the tranny apart and mirror it and rotate the skid 180 degrees.

4 link the rear as well, 3 linked will continue to twist regardless what other steps you take.
so either way i need to 4 link the from to help it i take it..
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:10 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by poorboypulling View Post
so either way i need to 4 link the from to help it i take it..
I misread, I thought you had the front 4 linked and rear 3 linked. The front does not need to be 4 linked. It does not hurt though.

My torque twist solution was as follows: Mirrored tranny, good chassis (stock has horrible geometry), 4 linked, 60 wt oil in left rear shock, 45 in right rear, equal length upper links on the rear mounted above the plate and on a UGC D plate after they were released, under drive rear gears, and countless hours of anti squat tuning.

There are some videos of my Fastback floating around the video section that have made some doubt it was a shafty do to the lack of torque twist on mind boggling steep climbs.

Last edited by DickyT; 11-03-2010 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:32 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DickyT View Post
I misread, I thought you had the front 4 linked and rear 3 linked. The front does not need to be 4 linked. It does not hurt though.

My torque twist solution was as follows: Mirrored tranny, good chassis (stock has horrible geometry), 4 linked, 60 wt oil in left rear shock, 45 in right rear, equal length upper links on the rear mounted above the plate and on a UGC D plate after they were released, under drive rear gears, and countless hours of anti squat tuning.

There are some videos of my Fastback floating around the video section that have made some doubt it was a shafty do to the lack of torque twist on mind boggling steep climbs.
damn no i wish i never would have sold my old AX10, sounds like the OP of that one did all the work for me hahaha
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:22 AM   #14
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well the PO put the tranny together backwards so i spend some time flipping the tranny all around. seemed to help some although i didnt have a full battery to completely test it. kinda hard to do it when you cant get the output shaft off because someone red locktighted them on..... saddle packs and maybe gear the front and i think it would be gravy thanks for all the info guys
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:28 AM   #15
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or you can take a look at what us venom guys are doing and go to rmdw's T's & T's & Setups in the venom section some of it should be pretty universal.
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:51 AM   #16
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A little heat from a heat gun or a lighter releases the lock-tite.

Saddle packs help a lot.

Even with 3-links front and rear I've got my climb angle to 64 degrees and hugely better performance on the rocks by doing all the simple things like mirroring the tranny, changing to a better chasis, stiffening the rear shock oil, changing to aluminum links, going to saddle packs, etc.

The most telling indication of the improvement is that when I hit the throttle on flat ground all four tires stay on the ground.

Four-link setup is on the christmas list
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Mud Puppy View Post
A little heat from a heat gun or a lighter releases the lock-tite.

Saddle packs help a lot.

Even with 3-links front and rear I've got my climb angle to 64 degrees and hugely better performance on the rocks by doing all the simple things like mirroring the tranny, changing to a better chasis, stiffening the rear shock oil, changing to aluminum links, going to saddle packs, etc.

The most telling indication of the improvement is that when I hit the throttle on flat ground all four tires stay on the ground.

Four-link setup is on the christmas list
tried heating with no luck, im going to add some thinker oil in the rear shocks and maybe put a stiffer spring on the pass rear coilover but ill see how it does and keep tweeking
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by poorboypulling View Post
tried heating with no luck, im going to add some thinker oil in the rear shocks and maybe put a stiffer spring on the pass rear coilover but ill see how it does and keep tweeking
By pass rear do you mean right side looking at the rig from the rear? The thicker oil needs to go in the left rear shock.

Here is one of the video's showing just how smooth a shafty can be

Underground Crawlers Fastback and FF-4's at Haulover
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:18 PM   #19
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By pass rear do you mean right side looking at the rig from the rear? The thicker oil needs to go in the left rear shock.

Here is one of the video's showing just how smooth a shafty can be

Underground Crawlers Fastback and FF-4's at Haulover
sorry misspoke i ment driver rear. man would i love for my rig to be as smooth as that fastback
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:22 PM   #20
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man would i love for my rig to be as smooth as that fastback
It was a magic rig for me. With enough time, tuning and nailing the right setup, and a good chassis your's too can be that smooth.
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